纺织学报 ›› 2017, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (08): 127-131.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20160708205

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

藏袍腋下插角结构与先秦袍服小腰

  

  • 收稿日期:2016-07-28 修回日期:2017-04-13 出版日期:2017-08-15 发布日期:2017-08-10

Structure of outspread inserted pieces in Tibetan robes and gusset in pre-Qin robes

  • Received:2016-07-28 Revised:2017-04-13 Online:2017-08-15 Published:2017-08-10

摘要:

为建立藏族服饰结构图谱,完善整个中华民族服饰结构谱系,利用类型学、比较学的研究方法,通过对博物馆馆藏藏族服饰的结构进行实物研究,得到了藏袍腋下插角结构的重大发现,这一特殊结构在其他少数民族中尚未被发现。对比发现,类似的结构出现在两千多年前的战国中晚期,江陵马山一号楚墓出土衣袍的小腰结构与藏袍腋下插角结构之间有着异曲同工之妙。对藏袍腋下插角结构和先秦楚墓衣袍小腰结构进行分析,发现二者存在诸多相似之处,都是基于十字型平面结构下的功能性探索和实践。所不同的是,藏袍腋下插角都不是单独衣片,而是与侧片连为一体,体现了敬畏自然之下的节俭动机。

关键词: 藏袍, 插角结构, 深隐式插角, 先秦袍服小腰

Abstract:

In order to establish the structure map of Tibetan costume and optimizing the whole structure system of Chinese national costumes. Using the research methods of typology and comparison, the outspread inserted pieces of an important discovery have been found in study on the Tibetan costume structure from the Museum by comparison, which is found in other ethnic groups. Similar structure appeared in the later state of the Warring States period of two thousand years ago. Structure of gusset in robe of Chu Tomb No.1 at Mashan in Jiangling is similar to the outspread inserted pieces. It is found that there are many similarities exist between the two things. Both of them are based on the functional exploration and practice under the cross flat structure. The difference is that the inserted pieces are integrally connected with the side piece instead of separate pieces, which embodies the nature respect under the motivation of thrift. It is of index significance in establishing the cross flat structure system of unified multi-culture Chinese traditional costumes.

Key words: Tibetan robe, qutspread strcture, outspread inserted piece, gusset in pre-Qin robes

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