纺织学报 ›› 2017, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (10): 38-43.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20161105606

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

纬编牛仔面料的设计及其弹性回复性

  

  • 收稿日期:2016-11-23 修回日期:2017-02-07 出版日期:2017-10-15 发布日期:2017-10-16

Structure design and elastic resilience of weft knitted denim fabric

  • Received:2016-11-23 Revised:2017-02-07 Online:2017-10-15 Published:2017-10-16

摘要:

为研究纬编针织牛仔面料的保型性和尺寸稳定性,以靛蓝纱、本白棉纱、涤纶、氨纶为原料,采用成圈+ 浮线、集圈+ 浮线的复合组织设计了斜纹和鱼鳞结构的2类共11款弹力纬编牛仔面料作为裤料。对11款纬编牛仔面料的弹性回复性进行了测试,结果表明纬编牛仔面料的纵向弹性回复性均优于横向,适合横裁;织物纵向即腿围方向弹性回复性好,拉伸弹性实验测试中,横向即裤长方向因浮线的存在需施加较大的定伸长力,说明横向的延伸性及弹性较小;组织结构和浮线长度对横向弹性回复性影响较大,织物纵向的弹性回复性受氨纶线密度、比例和线长影响。当组织均为六路斜纹时,非弹性纱线密度大,单次拉伸弹性回复率与纵密成反比,但3次拉伸后弹性回复率下降明显,表明非弹性纱线密度越大,纬编牛仔的纵向多次拉伸弹性回复率越差。

关键词: 纬编牛仔面料, 针织斜纹, 鱼鳞结构, 弹性回复性

Abstract:

The research works of denim fabric focus on the shape preserving property and dimensional syability. Two types of structures of 11 weft knitted denim fabrics wer designed for the pants. Cotton, polyester and spandex were designed as the materials and the materials and the structures as loop or trck combined with floating. The elastic resilience was tested. The results showed that the the longitudinal elastic resilience was better than the horizintal one. The designed weft denim fabrics were adaptive for cross-cut. The longitudingal direction was the leg curcumference, and the horizontal direction as the lengyt of pants. The elastic resilience of horizontal direction was influenced significantly by the structure and the length of floating, and the longitudenal direction by the linear density, proportion, and loop lengyt of spandex. As the same structure of six cam systems twill, the repeatedly elastic resilience of longitudinal durection of weft knitted denim fabric was inwersely peoportional to the linear density of non-elastic yarns

Key words: weft knitted denim fabric, knitting twill, scale-style, elastic resilience

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