关键词: 中国传统服饰, 服饰色彩, 染色技艺, 植物染色, 苏木, 前媒染, 酸碱度

Abstract:

In order to study influence of pH value during dyeing process of traditional costumes, water extraction of sappanwood was used for pre-mordant dyeing of cotton fabrics. The coloring pattern and the L*、a*、b*、c* value were obtained from the alumen and melanteritum mordant dyeing process with different pH values. The result shows that pH value has greater influence to the alumen mordant dyeing of cotton fabrics and gives different tones of colors. While the pH value has little influence to the melanteritum mordant dyeing of cotton fabrics and gives mainly warm gray color. Rose purple and sandalwood purple were reconstituted by adjusting pH value, which is a great example showing the importance of pH value to the ancient dyeing process. The adjustment of pH value during the dyeing process greatly facilitates enrichment of the colors of the Chinese traditional costumes and determines the final dyeing results.

Key words: Chinese traditional costume, dress color, dyeing technology, plant dyeing, sappanwood, pre-mordant dyeing, pH value