关键词: 数码提花, 提花织物, 纬二重结构, 全遮盖结构, 影光渐变

Abstract:

In order to enrich the weave structure and color expression of weft-backed jacquard fabric, this paper presents two innovative design principles and methods of weft-backed structure which are derived from the analysis of traditional weft-backed jacquard fabric and combined with the technology of digital jacquard fabric. Combining shadow weaves and full-backed structure, these two principles and methods can design single face jacquard fabric with color gradient expression and double face jacquard fabric with color gradient expression. Full-backed points are set at first and then the corresponding basic databases are built when design single face weft-full-backed structure. It doesn’t need to overlap face pattern and back pattern when design double face weft-backed jacquard fabric. The structure design principle is that design series shadow weaves for primary weaves without full-backed points. And then filter weaves that can design full-backed structure. Finally, the design practices validated the practicable of two design principles and methods.

Key words: digital jacquard, jacquard fabric, weft-backed structure, full-backed structure, color shading