纺织学报 ›› 2018, Vol. 39 ›› Issue (03): 56-60.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20170505006
摘要:
为丰富全成形羊毛衫肩袖造型,提高编织效率,采用全成形电脑横机及DS-ONE APPEX 3 设计系统,对全成形毛衫肩袖成形方式进行研究。将四针床全成形毛衫肩袖部位按照其结构分为 6 种,从重视效率、重视结构 2 种编织方式分别探讨 6 种肩袖的编织工艺。研究认为:比率编织法适用于平肩式与落肩式,可编织出不同高度的袖山;扭转纱环有助于落肩式的前肩向后针床翻转,使接肩动作更稳定;引返工艺适用于马鞍肩和斜肩的细节部位编织;均收工艺是降落伞型毛衫肩袖部位的主要编织方式;多织工艺可用来平衡衣身和袖山结构上的前后高低差,维持筒状编织结构稳定。
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