关键词: 童袄褂, 领襟形制, 系结方式, 传统型形制, 中西合璧型形制

Abstract:

In order to study the shape characteristics and evolutio trend of modern children's coat and jacket including collars and knots, 127 children's coats and jackets were chosen from Donghua University Costume Museum, Jiangnan University Folk Costumes Biography museum and Shanghai Yi Fengtang Museum to measure the size of each part. These data were subjected to image data reduction by using the clothing computer aided design and Adobe Illustrator, and part of the collars and placket detail parts of the structure were extracted for analysis. The results show that modern follk children's coats and jackets according to the shape is divided into traditional Chinese style and Chinese and Western combined style. Among them, the collar, the placket and the knotting way of the traditional Chinese style jackets are mainly manifested as band collar, cross collar, front opening, placket, rope, interlocking button and detachable button. Chinese and Western style children's jackets and coats are mainly manifest as stand collar, overlapping placket and buttonhole button. Meanwhile, the overall development direction trends to Chinese and Western integration, facilitation and diversification.

Key words: children's coat and jacket, collar-placket shape, knotting way, traditional Chinese style shape, Chinese and Western combined style shape