贾卡提花经编间隔织物的撕裂性能

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180703206

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (06): 32-37.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180703206

贾卡提花经编间隔织物的撕裂性能

孙婉, 缪旭红(), 王晓雷

江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏无锡 214122

收稿日期:2018-07-13 修回日期:2019-02-26 出版日期:2019-06-15 发布日期:2019-06-25
通讯作者: 缪旭红
作者简介:孙婉(1993—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为纺织材料与纺织品设计。
基金资助:
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(JUSRP51727A);国家轻工技术与工程一流学科自主课题资助项目(2018-28)

Tearing properties of Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric

SUN Wan, MIAO Xuhong(), WANG Xiaolei

Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China

Received:2018-07-13 Revised:2019-02-26 Online:2019-06-15 Published:2019-06-25
Contact: MIAO Xuhong

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为实现合理配置贾卡组织结构提高鞋面力学性能,采用鞋面材料常用的8种贾卡提花组织,研究了贾卡提花经编间隔织物及部分单层织物的纵横向的撕裂性能,总结了贾卡提花经编间隔织物的横纵向撕裂机制、织物破坏情况、撕裂曲线特征以及贾卡组织对其纵横向撕裂强力的影响。结果表明:横向撕裂时织物先沿着横向破坏,然后转为沿纵向破坏;纵向撕裂时,织物沿纵向至完全破坏;横向撕裂的曲线锯齿状峰波动较大,而纵向撕裂的曲线较为整齐;撕裂曲线及撕裂特征主要由贾卡面决定,横向撕裂长度主要由撕裂长度较小的一面决定。贾卡面全为薄组织的间隔织物横纵向撕裂强力均最小,在鞋面材料撕裂强力不足时应避免使用。

关键词: 经编, 间隔织物, 贾卡提花, 撕裂性能, 鞋面材料

Abstract:

In order to improve the mechanical properties of the vamp by rationally configuring the Jacquard structure, eight kinds of Jacquard structure commonly used in vamp materials were adopted to study the tearing properties weftwise and warpwise of the Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric and some single-layer fabrics. The weftwise and warpwise tearing mechanism, destruction of fabric and the tearing curve characteristics of the Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric were summarized. The influence of Jacquard structure on the tearing strength of weftwise and warpwise was also researched. When the fabric is transversely torn, the fabric is first broken along the weft direction and then along the warp direction. When the fabric is longitudinally torn, the fabric is destroyed completely in the warp direction. The curve of the weftwise tearing fluctuates greatly, while the warpwise tearing curve is relatively regular. The tearing curve and characteristics are mainly determined by the Jacquard side, and the length of the tearing weftwise is mainly determined by the side with the smaller tear length. The tear strength of Jacquard spacer fabric with a thin structure is minimum either in weft direction or warp direction, which should not be used when the tearing strength of the upper material is insufficient.

Key words: warp knitting, spacer fabric, Jacquard, tearing property, vamp material

中图分类号:

TS186.1

孙婉, 缪旭红, 王晓雷. 贾卡提花经编间隔织物的撕裂性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(06): 32-37.

SUN Wan, MIAO Xuhong, WANG Xiaolei. Tearing properties of Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(06): 32-37.

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参考文献 10

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梳栉编号	垫纱组织	原料规格	穿纱	送经量/ (mm·腊克^-1)
GB1	1-0-0-0/2- 3-3-3//	166.67 dtex(48 f) 涤纶FDY	满穿	2 360
GB2	1-0-0-0/0- 1-1-1//	166.67 dtex(48 f) 涤纶FDY	满穿	1 480
GB3	1-0-2-1/2- 3-1-2//	33.33 d tex 涤纶单丝	满穿	7 600
JB4	1-1-1-0/1- 1-1-2//	166.67 dtex(48 f) 涤纶FDY	满穿	-
GB5	1-1-1-0/1- 1-0-1//	166.67 dtex(48 f) 涤纶FDY	满穿	1 480

试样编号	成品横密/ (纵行·cm^-1)	成品纵密/ (横列·cm^-1)	贾卡梳送经量/ (mm·腊克^-1)
1^#	25	36.0	2 220	479.9
2^#	25	41.0	2 360	519.9
3^#	25	40.0	2 290	500.1
4^#	25	38.0	2 240	482.8
5^#	24	38.0	2 170	477.8
6^#	24	39.5	2 270	489.7
7^#	25	38.0	2 250	496.9
8^#	25	39.0	2 270	506.6

试样编号	横向撕裂强力/N	横向撕裂长度/mm	纵向撕裂强力/N	纵向撕裂长度/mm
1^#	89.88	52.25	55.59	179.18
1^#-1	50.93	54.07	32.90	164.50
1^#-2	34.43	157.07	14.82	190.24
2^#	137.38	94.02	65.01	158.04
2^#-2	35.83	289.33	23.27	146.92
3^#	110.81	71.97	60.04	188.42
4^#	91.89	62.96	68.56	193.81
5^#	95.14	72.65	75.21	122.66
5^#-2	32.89	169.43	31.05	160.40
6^#	90.11	70.52	61.41	77.73
7^#	92.97	63.91	61.00	168.50
8^#	96.67	72.29	62.39	159.38
8^#-2	49.57	148.03	28.10	170.17

贾卡提花经编间隔织物的撕裂性能

Tearing properties of Jacquard warp knitted spacer fabric

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