双圆弧的图解及其在衣缝轮廓线设计中的应用

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180908309

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为解决衣缝轮廓线设计的随意性和过分依赖经验成分的问题,实现衣缝轮廓线的参数化,构建用于衣缝轮廓线设计的双圆弧基础理论。在采用图解法对双圆弧起止点切线和连接点轨迹等要素的几何关系、不同条件下各区间的双圆弧类型及组成进行深入分析的基础上,提出保证衣缝轮廓线圆顺性的切线长比值概念,给出用于衣缝轮廓线设计的双圆弧连接点位置的选择方法以及双圆弧的制图方法,并据此进行了采用C型和S型双圆弧设计裤子前后裆缝线和后外侧缝线的实践应用。结果表明:采用双圆弧设计衣缝轮廓线,方法简单可行,形状圆顺可靠,不仅便于手工制版时对衣缝轮廓线形态的精准把握,更有利于使用AutoCAD参数化功能进行服装样板的参数化设计。

关键词: 双圆弧, 衣缝轮廓线, 裆缝线, 后外侧缝线, AutoCAD, 参数化

Abstract:

In order to solve randomness and excessive reliance on empirical components in the design of clothing seams outline, realize the parameterization of the clothing seams outline, and construct the basic theory of biarc for the design of the clothing seams outline, the concept of the tangent length ratio to ensure the smoothness of the clothing seams outline was put forward based on the analyses of the geometrical relations of the biarc starting and ending points and the trajectory of the connecting points, the type and composition of the biarc in each interval under different conditions by graph method. The selection method of biarc connection points for the design of clothing seams outline and the drawing method of biarc were given. Based on this, the practical application of front and rear crotch seam lines and rear lateral seam lines of trousers with C type and S type biarc designs was carried out. The results show that the design of the seam line by biarc curve is simple and feasible, and the shape is round and reliable. It is convenient not only to accurately grasp the shape of the seam outline during manual garment pattern making, but also to perform the parametric design of the garment template using the AutoCAD parameter function.

Key words: biarc, garment seams outline, crotch seam, posterolateral seam, AutoCAD, parameterization

中图分类号:

TS941.19

娄少红. 双圆弧的图解及其在衣缝轮廓线设计中的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(09): 150-158.

LOU Shaohong. Diagram of biarc and its application in design of garment seam outline[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(09): 150-158.

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参考文献 12

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区间	双圆弧类型	β 取值范围	双圆弧的组成
区间	双圆弧类型	β 取值范围	K₁P₁<K₁P₂或K₁P₁>K₁P₂, t₁指向K₁而t₂背向K₁	K₁P₁<K₁P₂或K₁P₁>K₁P₂, t₁背向K₁而t₂指向K₁
B⁽¹⁾	C型	(0°,180°)	劣弧	优弧
		(0°,180°-γ]	劣弧	优弧
			劣弧	优弧
B⁽²⁾	S型	(180°-γ,180°)	劣弧+半圆	优弧+半圆
			劣弧+优弧	优弧+劣弧
			优弧	劣弧
B⁽³⁾	C型	(0°,180°)	优弧+半圆	劣弧+半圆
			优弧+劣弧	劣弧+优弧
B⁽⁴⁾	S型	(0°,180°)	劣弧+优弧	劣弧+优弧

区间	双圆弧类型	β 取值范围	双圆弧的组成
区间	双圆弧类型	β 取值范围	K₁P₁<K₁P₂且t₁与t₂相背, 或者K₁P₁>K₁P₂且t₁与t₂相对	K₁P₁<K₁P₂且t₁与t₂相对, 或者K₁P₁>K₁P₂且t₁与t₂相背
		(0°,γ]	劣弧	优弧
			劣弧	优弧
B⁽¹⁾	S型	(γ,180°)	劣弧+半圆	优弧+半圆
			劣弧+优弧	优弧+劣弧
			优弧+劣弧	劣弧+优弧
B⁽²⁾	C型	(0°,180°)	优弧+半圆	劣弧+半圆
			优弧	劣弧
B⁽³⁾	S型	(0°,180°)	优弧+劣弧	优弧+劣弧
B⁽⁴⁾	C型	(0°,180°)	优弧+劣弧	优弧+劣弧

区间	双圆弧类型	β 取值范围	双圆弧的组成
区间	双圆弧类型	β 取值范围	K₁P₁=0且t₁与t₂相顺,或者K₁P₂=0 且t₁与t₂相背	K₁P₁=0且t₁与t₂相背,或者K₁P₂=0 且t₁与t₂相顺
		(0°,90°]	优弧	劣弧
			优弧	劣弧
E⁽¹⁾	S型	(90°,180°)	优弧+半圆	劣弧+半圆
			优弧+劣弧	劣弧+优弧
			劣弧+优弧	优弧+劣弧
E⁽²⁾	C型	(0°,180°)	劣弧+半圆	优弧+半圆
			劣弧	优弧
E⁽³⁾	S型	(0°,180°)	劣弧+优弧	劣弧+优弧

区间	双圆弧类型	α取值范围	双圆弧的组成
		(0°,90°)	劣弧
(P₁,P₂)	S型	90°	半圆
		(90°,180°)	优弧
		(0°,90°)	劣弧+优弧
(P₂,∞)	C型	90°	半圆
		(90°,180°)	劣弧+优弧
		(0°,90°)	劣弧+优弧
(P₁,∞)	C型	90°	半圆
		(90°,180°)	劣弧+优弧

区间	双圆弧类型	α取值范围	双圆弧的组成
(P₁',P₂)	C型	(0°,180°)	劣弧
(P₂,P₂')	S型	(0°,90°)	劣弧+优弧
		(90°,180°)	劣弧+优弧
(P₂',P₁)	C型	(0°,180°)	优弧
(P₁,P₁')	S型	(0°,90°)	劣弧+优弧
		(90°,180°)	劣弧+优弧