无省旗袍的结构设计方法

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604406

纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (06): 99-104.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604406

无省旗袍的结构设计方法

刘咏梅¹^,², 韩天琪¹, 张向辉¹^,²(), 吕芳澜¹

1.东华大学服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
2.东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 200051

收稿日期:2019-06-18 修回日期:2020-03-03 出版日期:2020-06-15 发布日期:2020-06-28
通讯作者: 张向辉
作者简介:刘咏梅(1969—),女,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为服装先进制造技术。

Pattern design method of traditional cheongsam

LIU Yongmei¹^,², HAN Tianqi¹, ZHANG Xianghui¹^,²(), LÜ Fanglan¹

1. Fashion and Art Design Institute, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China

Received:2019-06-18 Revised:2020-03-03 Online:2020-06-15 Published:2020-06-28
Contact: ZHANG Xianghui

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为解决无省旗袍现有纸样结构设计方法存在参数杂糅难以理解和演绎,以及较为依赖主观判断等问题,提出了一种无省旗袍的结构设计方法。通过博物馆实地走访、观察,专家问题访谈,对款式内涵和特征进行深入理解和把握;筛选典型的无省类旗袍款式样本,结合叠图分析方法对衣身腰身特征和衣袖肩线特征进行归类分析,总结得到2类典型款式;针对2类典型款式进行结构设计与实验研究,结合东华服装结构设计理论提出无省类旗袍的纸样设计方法,并选取6名不同体型的受试者进行样衣实验,包括静态穿着实验和动作活动实验。实验结果表明,通过该方法制作而成的样衣,在2种状态下均达到了较好的穿着效果,从而验证了此方法的可行性与可演绎性。

关键词: 旗袍款式, 旗袍结构设计, 无省旗袍, 原型法, 穿着实验

Abstract:

In order to solve the problems that the existing pattern design methods of traditional cheongsam were difficult to understand and deduce due to parameter mixing and subjective judgment, a pattern design method for traditional cheongsam was proposed in this paper. Better understanding on connotation and characteristics of the style were established through field visits to museums and interviews with experts. The typical traditional cheongsam style samples were selected, and the characteristics of waist and shoulder line of sleeves were classified and analyzed with overlay analysis to summarize two types of typical styles. The structure design were studied for these two typical styles, and the pattern design method for the traditional cheongsam was proposed based on the Donghua clothing structure design theory. Six subjects with different shapes were selected for the pattern experiment, including the static wearing experiment and the action activity experiment. The sample garment made by this method achieves better wearing effect in both states, which verifies the feasibility and deducibility of this method.

Key words: cheongsam style, pattern design of cheongsam, cheongsam without darts, prototype design, wearing experiment

中图分类号:

TS941.7

刘咏梅, 韩天琪, 张向辉, 吕芳澜. 无省旗袍的结构设计方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(06): 99-104.

LIU Yongmei, HAN Tianqi, ZHANG Xianghui, LÜ Fanglan. Pattern design method of traditional cheongsam[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(06): 99-104.

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受试者编号	身高/ cm	胸围/ cm	腰围/ cm	腹围/ cm	臀围/ cm	肩宽/ cm	体重/ kg
1	162	74.0	60.5	73	86	38.0	43.5
2	163	79.5	61.0	70	84	38.0	44.0
3	162	81.5	61.0	68	92	39.0	47.0
4	164	88.0	64.0	78	94	38.5	53.0
5	162	90.0	65.5	78	91	38.5	51.0
6	165	90.0	66.0	74	92	39.5	55.0

无省旗袍的结构设计方法

Pattern design method of traditional cheongsam

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