纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (09): 76-80.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191000205

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

全成形平肩袖毛衫袖身连接工艺分段设计

陈曦, 缪旭红(), 牛丽, 韩晓雪, 蒋高明   

  1. 江南大学 针织技术教育部工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2019-10-08 修回日期:2020-04-25 出版日期:2020-09-15 发布日期:2020-09-25
  • 通讯作者: 缪旭红
  • 作者简介:陈曦(1996—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织全成形工艺。
  • 基金资助:
    泰山产业领军人才项目(tscy20180224);无锡市针织科技服务平台项目(WX03-07D0304-021700-06)

Sleeve-body connection technique for segmentation design of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweaters

CHEN Xi, MIAO Xuhong(), NIU Li, HAN Xiaoxue, JIANG Gaoming   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University,Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2019-10-08 Revised:2020-04-25 Online:2020-09-15 Published:2020-09-25
  • Contact: MIAO Xuhong

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摘要：

为利用四针床电脑横机开发符合市场需求的全成形毛衫,以平肩袖毛衫为例,探讨了全成形毛衫袖身连接工艺分段设计方法与袖身连接工艺。认为全成形平肩袖毛衫袖身连接处可分为3个部分编织:袖山与袖窿同时收针编织、袖山收针-袖窿平摇编织、平袖山收针-袖窿平摇后放针编织。当毛衫袖山与袖窿之间高度差较大时,应采用较大的平袖山编收比率与袖身编织比率,通过编织更多的衣身行数弥补转数差,袖山与袖窿间弧度的差异可通过增加袖山收针次数调节。要根据毛衫袖身工艺参数以及袖山、袖窿在结构上的差异设计全成形毛衫袖身连接处编织工艺,才可得到贴合人体曲线的毛衫。

关键词: 全成形编织, 平肩袖毛衫, 袖身连接, 编织比率, 收放针工艺

Abstract:

In order to develop whole-garment sweaters that meet the market demand by using the four-needle-bed flat knitting machine, this paper describes a segmental design method for sleeve-body connection taking the flat-sleeve sweater as an example. The process of whole-garment flat-sleeve sweater at the joint of sleeve and body was divided into three parts: sleeve-top and armhole narrow at the same time, sleeve-top narrows while armhole flat knit, flat sleeve-top narrows while armhole widens after flat knit. If the height difference between the sleeve-top and the armhole is large, a larger knitting ratio was used to compensate for the difference in the number of turns by knitting more body rows. The difference in curvature between the sleeve-top and the armhole of sweater was adjusted by increasing the narrowing number in the sleeve-top. According to the technological parameters of the sleeve-body of the sweater and the structural differences between the sleeve-top and the armhole, the knitting process of the sleeve-body joint of the whole-garment sweater has been developed, enabling the sweater to fit the body curve.

Key words: whole-garment knitting, flat-sleeve sweater, sleeve-body connection, knitting ratio, process of narrowing and widening

中图分类号: 

  • TS184.5

图1

平肩袖毛衫袖身连接形状"

图2

袖身连接分段设计"

表1

袖身连接各部位针数与转数"

部位 部位尺寸/cm 针数/转数
胸宽针数w1 42.0 278
前上胸宽针数w2 32.0 212
肩宽针数w3 34.0 224
夹深转数d 18.6 164
袖宽针数e 14.5 96
接肩针数f 6.0 40
袖山高转数g 12.0 108
袖山/袖窿转数差h — 56

图3

袖身连接工艺参数示意图 注:NA、NB为A、B部分收针针数;RA、RB、RC 为A、B、C部分的编织转数。"

图4

袖山收针与袖窿放针的编织图与效果图"

图5

袖山收针与袖窿平摇的编织图与效果图"

图6

不同编织比率下的毛衫结构"

图7

袖山与袖窿同时收针的编织图与效果图"

图8

袖身连接效果图"

表2

袖身连接编织工艺表"

部段 编织
转数		 收放针
针数		 收放针
工艺		 袖身
编织比率		 平袖山编
收比率
A a1 92 32 2-2-13
4-2-2
6-2-1		 1:1 —
a2 平52
a'1 32 2-2-1
4-2-2
a'2 6-2-5
8-2-4
6-2-2
a'3 4-2-2
B b 32 0 平32 2:4:3 —
b' 24 4-3-8
C c1 40 6 平16 — 0:1:1
c2 4+1+6
c' 40 2-2-20

图9

全成形平肩袖毛衫效果图"

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