亚洲男士西服基本纸样自动生成系统的建立

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191203107

纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (09): 108-113.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191203107

亚洲男士西服基本纸样自动生成系统的建立

凌雅丽¹^,², 朱凌轩¹^,², 邵晓煊¹^,², 李泽辉¹^,², 钟安华¹^,²()

1.武汉纺织大学服装学院, 湖北武汉 430073
2.湖北省虚拟仿真实验室, 湖北武汉 430073

收稿日期:2019-12-13 修回日期:2020-06-18 出版日期:2020-09-15 发布日期:2020-09-25
通讯作者: 钟安华
作者简介:凌雅丽(1997—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装人体工学、服装数字化。
基金资助:
湖北省教育厅科技项目(D20121707);湖北省虚拟仿真实验室建设项目(D141091003)

Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits

LING Yali¹^,², ZHU Lingxuan¹^,², SHAO Xiaoxuan¹^,², LI Zehui¹^,², ZHONG Anhua¹^,²()

1. School of Fashion, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
2. Laboratory of Virtual Simulation in Hubei Province, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China

Received:2019-12-13 Revised:2020-06-18 Online:2020-09-15 Published:2020-09-25
Contact: ZHONG Anhua

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为满足服装企业对制版系统高度智能化的要求,以亚洲男士西服为例构建纸样自动生成系统。首先选取10个亚洲品牌的30件男士西服作为样本,以手工测量的16个细部尺寸数据为基础,运用SPSS数据统计软件对其进行主成分因子分析、相关性分析和回归分析,建立西服纸样参数化设计数学模型,并以MatLab为平台编程,结合西服纸样数学模型及制版方法设计自动生成系统。结果表明:胸围是影响西服版型的关键参数,前衣长、后衣长、腰围、下摆围与胸围的相关性最强;以胸围为自变量所建立的参数化数学模型可用于西服纸样自动生成系统编程,程序优化后的自动生成系统只需输入胸围尺寸就可得到西服版型,初步实现男士西服基本纸样的自动生成。

关键词: 亚洲男士西服, 西服纸样, 参数化设计, 自动生成系统

Abstract:

In order to satisfy the requirements for smart pattern making, an automatic generation system for suits' pattern was developed. Firstly, 30 classic men's suits of 10 brands in Asia were selected for study. Based on the 16 detailed size data of the suits, the principal component factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis were carried out using SPSS. Based on the regression equation obtained from the analysis, the parameterized design mathematical model of the suit pattern was established. MatLab was used as the platform of programming to develop the automatic pattern generation system, combining the mathematical model of the suit pattern of the suit and the method of plate making. The results show that bust is the key parameter that affects the suits' pattern, and the correlation between front length, back length, waist circumference, hem circumference and bust is the strongest. The parameterized mathematical model based on bust as an independent variable can be used to program the automatic pattern generation system of suit pattern, and the optimized automatic pattern generation system is able to output the suit pattern by inputting the size of the bust, facilitating initially the automatic generation of the basic pattern of men's suits.

Key words: Asian men's suits, suit pattern, parametric design, automatic generation system

中图分类号:

TS941.2

凌雅丽, 朱凌轩, 邵晓煊, 李泽辉, 钟安华. 亚洲男士西服基本纸样自动生成系统的建立[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(09): 108-113.

LING Yali, ZHU Lingxuan, SHAO Xiaoxuan, LI Zehui, ZHONG Anhua. Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(09): 108-113.

图/表 9

表1

表2

表3

图1

表4

男士西服版型各控制点坐标"

坐标点	坐标参数
P₁	$[(x - 5) / 4,0.58 (0.206 x + 50.291) - 1 / 3 × x / 12]$
P₂	$[(x - 5) / 4,0.58 (0.206 x + 50.291) - 1 / 3 × x / 12 - (x / 6 + 4.5) 2]$
P₃	$[(x - 5) / 4 - 1,0.58 (0.206 x + 50.291) - 1 / 3 × x / 12 - (x / 6 + 4.5) / 2]$
P₄	$[(x - 5) / 4 - 2,0]$
P₅	$[(x - 5) / 4 - 2, - 0.42 (0.206 x + 50.291)]$
?	?
P₃₉	$[- (x - 5) / 4 - 9, - 8]$
P₄₀	$[- (x - 5) / 4 + 9 + 15, - 7]$
P₄₁	$[- (x - 5) / 4 + 9 + 15, - 12]$
P₄₂	$[- (x - 5) / 4 + 9, - 13]$

表4

图2

表5

图3

图4

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指标	成分
指标	1	2	3	4	5	6
胸围	0.899	0.044	-0.113	0.194	0.175	0.046
下摆围	0.892	-0.036	0.025	0.079	0.327	0.097
后衣长	0.829	0.134	0.334	-0.192	-0.096	-0.099
前衣长	0.781	0.066	0.514	-0.093	-0.091	-0.024
腰围	0.605	0.286	-0.122	0.189	0.320	0.098
驳嘴宽度	0.024	0.920	0.207	0.069	0.055	-0.136
驳头宽度	0.088	0.778	0.261	-0.068	-0.270	0.107
口袋高度	0.152	0.736	-0.171	-0.086	0.133	0.277
后领口尺寸	-0.023	0.144	0.814	0.004	0.353	0.051
前底领宽	0.391	0.118	0.558	0.546	-0.026	0.263
胸省长度	0.252	0.190	0.520	0.003	0.253	0.436
后翻领宽	-0.032	0.081	0.157	0.877	-0.222	-0.139
后底领宽	0.081	-0.163	-0.168	0.837	0.081	0.130
肩宽	0.180	0.008	0.213	-0.073	0.839	0.187
口袋长度	0.270	-0.125	0.278	-0.150	0.580	-0.352
驳头直线长度	0.010	0.076	0.126	0.029	0.020	0.914

公因子	特征值	方差百分比/%	累积百分比/%
1	4.771	29.819	29.819
2	2.233	13.956	43.774
3	2.013	12.583	56.357
4	1.549	9.678	66.036
5	1.267	7.922	73.957
6	1.005	6.280	80.237
7	0.772	4.825	85.061
8	0.737	4.608	89.669
9	0.480	3.001	92.670
10	0.357	2.231	94.901
11	0.244	1.523	96.424
12	0.210	1.310	97.734
13	0.153	0.955	98.688
14	0.105	0.659	99.348
15	0.070	0.436	99.783
16	0.035	0.217	100.000

因变量	自变量	非标准化系数			标准系数	T检验值	Sig. (显著性)	共线性统计
		非标准化系数			标准系数			容许 (1/VIF)	VIF (方差膨胀因子)
		回归系数	标准错误	标准回归系数
		前衣长	常量	54.456	4.924					11.059	0.000
胸围	0.176	前衣长	0.047	0.586		3.761	0.001	1.000	1.000
后衣长	常量	50.291	5.201			9.669	0.000
后衣长	胸围	0.206	0.049	0.626		4.173	0.000	1.000	1.000
腰围	常量	45.846	13.745			3.335	0.002
腰围	胸围	0.479	0.130	0.577		3.674	0.001	1.000	1.000
下摆围	常量	47.434	5.820			8.151	0.000
下摆围	胸围	0.569	0.055	0.893		10.314	0.000	1.000	1.000

款式编号	来源	胸围/cm	前衣长/cm	后衣长/cm	腰围/cm	下摆围/cm
1	A	98	71.5	70	92	103
1	B	98	71.704	70.479	92.788	103.196
2	A	104	72	71.5	94	108
2	B	104	72.76	71.715	95.662	106.61
3	A	110	73	72.5	98	110
3	B	110	73.816	72.951	98.536	110.024
4	A	116	75	74.3	102	112
4	B	116	74.872	74.187	101.41	113.438

亚洲男士西服基本纸样自动生成系统的建立

Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits

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