纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (02): 80-86.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200601307

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于屈诱多形态力学测试的织物外观平整度表征

肖彩勤, 孙丰鑫(), 高卫东   

  1. 生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学), 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2020-06-04 修回日期:2020-11-03 出版日期:2021-02-15 发布日期:2021-02-23
  • 通讯作者: 孙丰鑫
  • 作者简介:肖彩勤(1996—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为基于力学测试的织物外观平整度表征。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(11802104);国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);中国博士后基金面上项目(2019M651697);江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20180589)

Characterization of fabric smoothness appearance based on buckling-induced mechanical test with multiple deformation of fabrics

XIAO Caiqin, SUN Fengxin(), GAO Weidong   

  1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2020-06-04 Revised:2020-11-03 Online:2021-02-15 Published:2021-02-23
  • Contact: SUN Fengxin

摘要:

针对现有基于图像或视觉原理的织物外观平整度的测试方法易受到织物复杂花型和纹理的影响,存在织物品类适应性差等不足,提出基于后屈曲诱导的织物多形态构建和力学性能原位检测原理的织物外观平整度表征手段。选取30块织物试样进行多重形变下的原位力学测试,分别提取力-位移测试曲线的5个特征指标,利用SPSS软件对提取的织物特征指标及其厚度和面密度与主观评价等级进行相关性分析,同时采用逐步回归法构建外观平整度的预测模型,并借助1组独立实验对预测模型进行检验。结果表明,用原位力学测试方法构建的预测模型的评价结果与主观评估结果具有较好的吻合度,说明基于原位力学测试方法实施织物外观平整度表征是可行并有效的。

关键词: 织物外观平整度, 织物折皱, 原位力学测试方法, 屈曲诱导

Abstract:

The existing methods for testing fabric smoothness appearance based on image methods or visual principles are susceptible to the complex patterns and textures of fabrics, with shortcomings such as poor adaptability for different types of fabrics. Characterization method of fabric smoothness appearance was proposed based on the simultaneous-mechanical testing technology. 30 fabric samples were selected for in-situ mechanical test under multiple deformations, and five characteristic indexes of the force-displacement test curve were extracted respectively. SPSS software was used to correlate the extracted characteristic indexes, and fabric thickness with the subjective evaluation results. The stepwise regression method was used to construct a prediction model for fabric smoothness appearance, and the prediction model was validated with the help of a set of independent experiments. The results show that the evaluation results of the prediction model based on the in-situ mechanical test method have a good agreement with the subjective evaluation results, indicating the feasibility and effectiveness of the in-situ mechanical test method to characterize the appearance of the fabric.

Key words: fabric smoothness appearance, fabric wrinkle, in-situ mechanical test method, buckling inducing

中图分类号: 

  • TS101.2

图1

织物外观平整度力学测试系统示意图"

图2

原位力学测试过程与主要特征阶段"

表1

试样基本规格参数"

试样
编号
厚度/mm 面密度/
(g·m-2)
折皱回复
角/(°)
折皱回复
率/%
弯曲刚度/
(cN·cm2·cm-1)
组织结构 成分
1 0.215 134.3 95.00 77.72 0.123 平纹 棉/涤纶
2 0.273 111.1 75.00 55.63 0.076 平纹 粘胶
3 0.216 117.5 82.00 62.58 0.265 平纹 粘胶
4 0.226 124.7 83.00 62.62 0.683 平纹 粘胶
5 0.419 207.4 80.00 57.81 0.894 平纹 棉/涤纶
6 0.775 371.8 46.00 34.28 1.292 斜纹 棉/涤纶
7 0.447 199.8 75.00 56.58 0.550 斜纹 棉/涤纶
8 0.573 258.4 45.00 30.58 0.746 斜纹
9 0.398 170.7 73.00 50.00 0.385 平纹
10 0.256 142.4 95.00 63.62 0.722 平纹 棉/涤纶
11 0.220 136.6 104.00 69.17 0.248 平纹
12 0.432 184.8 73.00 55.45 0.170 斜纹
13 0.397 205.2 52.00 39.85 0.439 斜纹
14 1.660 575.0 155.00 61.32 2.583 平纹 羊毛/涤纶
15 0.479 279.7 86.00 61.46 0.663 平纹 棉/涤纶
16 0.225 114.5 134.00 78.03 0.062 平纹 锦纶
17 0.450 270.4 42.00 33.37 1.026 斜纹 棉/氨纶
18 0.335 165.2 76.00 53.02 0.132 斜纹 棉/粘胶
19 0.335 165.3 35.00 28.37 0.392 平纹 亚麻
20 0.228 155.4 62.00 51.30 0.369 斜纹
21 0.216 121.5 149.00 69.67 0.077 平纹 锦纶/棉
22 0.343 202.5 56.00 46.01 0.433 斜纹 锦纶/棉/氨纶
23 0.315 208.0 95.00 49.46 1.140 斜纹 涤纶/锦纶
24 0.260 116.5 89.00 63.27 0.093 平纹
25 0.253 127.4 63.00 48.38 0.273 平纹
26 0.271 123.3 60.00 51.77 0.729 平纹
27 0.219 122.9 85.00 71.01 0.211 平纹
28 0.316 173.2 64.00 59.27 0.370 平纹
29 0.216 115.6 65.00 52.65 0.113 平纹 棉/涤纶
30 0.232 119.6 105.00 68.23 0.153 斜纹 棉/锦纶/氨纶

图3

AATCC标准样照"

图4

原位力学测试力-位移曲线"

表2

织物外观平整度主观评价与特征指标测试结果"

试样
编号
织物外观平整度主观评价 原位力学测试曲线特征指标
评委1 评委2 评委3 评委4 评委5 评委6 均值 Dwr/mm Hwr/cN Fwr/cN Scr/(cN·mm-1) Str/(cN·mm-1)
1 4.0 3.5 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 3.92 0.10 4.41 5.35 743.30 729.69
2 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.25 0.18 4.86 5.01 834.35 710.25
3 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.42 0.07 3.81 4.72 804.29 730.37
4 3.5 3.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.50 0.19 10.15 8.65 775.13 762.00
5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.33 0.17 15.68 10.15 676.50 764.44
6 2.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.83 0.72 29.88 18.82 591.45 501.04
7 3.5 4.0 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.50 0.18 11.26 7.59 724.26 492.81
8 2.0 2.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.67 0.58 20.13 13.80 651.39 703.52
9 2.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 2.0 2.67 0.20 9.36 6.17 707.85 601.82
10 4.0 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.50 0.07 7.21 9.11 663.66 818.00
11 3.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.67 0.05 2.65 5.34 775.07 679.33
12 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.25 0.39 8.24 7.31 712.37 682.33
13 3.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 2.50 0.61 17.63 13.33 702.55 692.92
14 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.42 0.06 10.68 12.37 372.09 662.72
15 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.42 0.22 23.22 18.17 506.74 755.39
16 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 5.0 5.0 4.33 0.13 2.42 2.65 815.45 725.32
17 2.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.83 0.61 27.17 16.32 647.78 562.53
18 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.25 0.23 5.34 4.59 777.34 635.10
19 2.0 2.0 1.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.50 1.58 17.19 13.99 713.78 702.95
20 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.25 0.36 12.57 8.82 715.88 706.39
21 4.0 3.5 4.0 4.0 3.5 4.0 3.83 0.18 1.31 2.13 800.97 728.54
22 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.00 0.84 14.96 10.69 700.15 555.92
23 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.08 0.23 10.55 8.95 593.71 758.66
24 3.5 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.58 0.09 3.92 4.40 804.38 691.42
25 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.00 0.41 15.31 12.73 789.83 739.76
26 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.17 0.25 13.04 11.93 760.38 775.87
27 4.0 3.5 4.0 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.67 0.16 7.48 6.49 723.25 715.51
28 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.25 0.26 12.07 12.29 712.50 695.58
29 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 3.33 0.27 4.79 5.49 793.77 708.81
30 3.5 3.5 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 3.50 0.32 2.32 2.25 802.08 739.51

图5

织物外观平整度主观评价"

表3

织物外观平整度与曲线特征指标的相关性分析"

Dwr Hwr Fwr Scr Str T W G
Dwr 1
Hwr 0.688** 1
Fwr 0.599** 0.939** 1
Scr -0.324 -0.755** -0.853** 1
Str -0.408 -0.287 -0.164 0.126 1
T 0.436* 0.779** 0.723** -0.756** -0.485* 1
W 0.439* 0.825** 0.822** -0.925** 0.359 0.883** 1
G -0.825** -0.718** -0.626** 0.465* 0.414* -0.577** -0.551** 1

表4

织物外观平整度的主客观评价比较"

试样编号 主观评价 客观评价 差值 误差率绝对值/%
24 3.58 3.71 -0.13 3.6
25 3.00 2.86 0.14 4.6
26 3.17 3.13 0.04 1.3
27 3.67 3.48 0.19 5.2
28 3.25 3.17 0.08 2.5
29 3.33 3.47 -0.14 4.2
30 3.50 3.53 -0.03 0.9
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