女装衣身前浮余量与人体胸凸形态的关系

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700305

纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (04): 139-143.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200700305

女装衣身前浮余量与人体胸凸形态的关系

崔文¹, 李小辉¹^,²^,³()

1.东华大学服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
2.同济大学上海国际设计创新研究院,上海 200092
3.东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 200051

收稿日期:2020-07-01 修回日期:2021-01-14 出版日期:2021-04-15 发布日期:2021-04-20
通讯作者: 李小辉
作者简介:崔文(1998—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装结构与舒适性。
基金资助:
中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金资助项目(2232019G-08)

Relationship between garment dart and breast feature of female body

CUI Wen¹, LI Xiaohui¹^,²^,³()

1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
2. Shanghai International Institute of Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
3. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China

Received:2020-07-01 Revised:2021-01-14 Online:2021-04-15 Published:2021-04-20
Contact: LI Xiaohui

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为解决个体化女装衣身胸部浮余量获取繁琐、误差偏大等问题,提出一种基于人体体型特征的数学模型。通过人体胸凸形态的影响因素分析,提取胸围和上下胸围差作为体型特征参数,基于立体几何原理构建前衣身浮余量的数学模型;随机选取实验对象对数学模型进行立体裁剪和实际样衣试穿的实验验证,并对二者所得浮余量进行配对样本T检验。结果表明:数学模型与实际获取的结果无显著性差异,前浮余量角度可表示为胸围和胸围差的函数;依据体型特征参数构建的衣身浮余量设计方法可更为准确、高效地表征胸凸形态,满足个体化女装结构设计的需求。

关键词: 衣身浮余量, 胸凸曲面, 体型特征, 个体化服装, 数学建模, 女装

Abstract:

In order to solve the problems of tedious acquisition and large errors of dart in the pattern design of individualized women's garment, a mathematical modeling method based on feature extraction of female body was proposed. Through the analysis of the influencing factors of the shape of chest, the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust was extracted as feature parameters to construct the mathematical model for the front dart. The sample try-on experiment was carried out on the randomly selected test subjects, and paired sample T test with the dart obtained by mathematical method was conducted. The results show that there is a good agreement between the results obtained by mathematical analysis and the actual results. The angle of the front dart based on the body feature can be expressed as a function of the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust, and the design method of dart is accurate under the premise of reflecting the body feature efficiently and meet the needs of the individualized garment pattern design.

Key words: garment dart, curved surface of breast, body feature, individualized garment, mathematical modeling, women's garment

中图分类号:

TS941.17

崔文, 李小辉. 女装衣身前浮余量与人体胸凸形态的关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(04): 139-143.

CUI Wen, LI Xiaohui. Relationship between garment dart and breast feature of female body[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(04): 139-143.

图/表 6

图1

图2

表1

图3

表2

衣身浮余量实验结果数据"

样本编号	浮余量长度/cm	数学计算获取		实际获取
样本编号	浮余量长度/cm	α/(°)	$d$ /cm	α/(°)	$d$ /cm
A1	15.6	19.1	5.4	20.0	5.7
A2	16.8	20.5	6.3	17.5	5.3
A3	15.7	18.9	5.4	19.0	5.4
A4	14.8	16.6	4.4	17.0	4.5
A5	14.8	17.1	4.6	17.0	4.5
A6	15.3	17.8	4.9	19.0	5.2
A7	15.4	17.8	4.9	18.0	5.0
A8	13.7	13.7	3.3	15.5	3.8
A9	18.3	22.9	7.7	20.0	6.6
A10	16.8	21.3	6.5	21.0	6.4

表2

表3

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样本编号	身高/ cm	年龄/ 岁	净胸围/ cm	下胸围/ cm	胸围差/ cm	前腰节长/cm	后背长/ cm	胸宽/ cm	背宽/ cm	总肩宽/ cm	FNP-BL/ cm	SNP-BL/ cm	乳间距/ cm	肩斜角/ (°)
A1	155	24	87.0	73.0	14.0	41.5	33.0	33.0	37.0	40.0	19.5	25.0	17.0	21
A2	158	40	95.0	85.0	10.0	42.0	34.5	38.0	38.5	41.0	16.5	26.0	15.0	22
A3	160	22	88.0	76.0	12.0	41.0	36.5	35.5	36.0	39.0	18.0	26.0	18.5	20
A4	163	22	82.0	72.0	10.0	41.0	36.0	28.0	35.0	38.0	20.0	28.0	17.0	20
A5	164	22	82.0	70.0	12.0	42.5	37.0	29.5	33.5	38.0	18.5	26.0	17.5	20
A6	164	22	85.0	74.0	11.0	42.0	37.0	34.5	34.5	39.5	18.5	26.5	18.0	20
A7	167	25	86.0	76.0	10.0	42.0	36.5	30.5	35.5	38.0	16.5	25.5	17.0	19
A8	168	23	74.5	67.0	7.5	41.0	36.5	36.0	36.5	37.0	19.0	26.0	15.5	24
A9	170	48	105.0	97.5	7.5	46.0	37.5	37.0	40.0	43.0	19.0	28.0	18.0	20
A10	175	23	95.0	82.0	13.0	45.5	40.0	37.5	37.5	40.5	19.5	27.5	19.0	21

浮余量平均值±标准差/(°)		平均值差值/(°)	t值	Sig.
数学计算获取	实际获取	平均值差值/(°)	t值	Sig.
18.56±0.82	18.40±0.54	0.16	0.318	0.758

女装衣身前浮余量与人体胸凸形态的关系

Relationship between garment dart and breast feature of female body

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