基于仿生学的冬季针织运动面料开发与性能评价

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200804008

纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (05): 66-72.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200804008

基于仿生学的冬季针织运动面料开发与性能评价

王莉¹^,², 张冰洁¹^,², 王建萍¹^,²^,³(), 刘莉⁴, 杨雅岚¹^,², 姚晓凤¹^,², 李倩文¹^,², 卢悠¹^,²

1.东华大学服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
2.东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 200051
3.同济大学上海国际设计创新研究院, 上海 200092
4.北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院, 北京 100029

收稿日期:2020-08-07 修回日期:2021-01-20 出版日期:2021-05-15 发布日期:2021-05-20
通讯作者: 王建萍
作者简介:王莉(1996—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为仿生面料的设计与开发。
基金资助:
国家重点研发计划“科技冬奥”重点专项资助项目(2019YFF0302100);中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金项目(2232020G-08)

Development and performance evaluation of bionic knitted winter sports fabrics

WANG Li¹^,², ZHANG Bingjie¹^,², WANG Jianping¹^,²^,³(), LIU Li⁴, YANG Yalan¹^,², YAO Xiaofeng¹^,², LI Qianwen¹^,², LU You¹^,²

1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
3. Shanghai International Institute of Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
4. Fashion Accessory Art and Engineering College, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029, China

Received:2020-08-07 Revised:2021-01-20 Online:2021-05-15 Published:2021-05-20
Contact: WANG Jianping

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为开发出热湿性能优良的冬季针织运动面料,基于SolidWorks软件对3类蝴蝶鳞片进行几何结构三维建模,根据模型特征采用双股70 dtex(72 f)Dryarn^®聚丙烯纱线作面纱,50 dtex Dryarn^®聚丙烯纱线包覆17 dtex氨纶作地纱,以及150 dtex涤纶作面纱,30 dtex涤纶包覆20 dtex氨纶作地纱,在SANTONI MF8-CHN单面电子提花圆机上开发了6种仿蝴蝶鳞片结构针织面料;通过对仿生结构针织面料的保暖性、透湿性、透气性及液态水分管理能力进行测试分析,进而运用模糊数学对织物的热湿舒适性能进行综合评价。结果表面:以Dryarn^®聚丙烯纱线为原料织造的蝶翅结构仿生织物不仅热湿舒适性能良好,且织造工艺简洁高效,拓宽了从织物组织结构设计方面开发功能纺织品的思路。

关键词: 针织面料, 三维建模, 蝴蝶鳞片结构, 热湿舒适性, 模糊评价

Abstract:

To develop knitted winter fabrics with better thermal-wet comfort properties, three types of butterfly scales were selected to construct the geometric structure 3-D model using SolidWorks software. Using 70 dtex(72 f) double Dryarn^® polypropylene yarn as surface yarn, 50 dtex Dryarn^® polypropylene yarn covered 17 dtex spandex as inside yarn and 150 dtex polyester as surface yarn, 30 dtex polyester covered 20 dtex spandex as inside yarn, 6 knitted fabrics with imitation butterfly scale were developed on the SANTONI MF8-CHN computerized jacquard weft circular knitting machine according to the characteristics of 3-D model. The thermal-wet comfort of bionic knitted fabrics were studied by testing and analyzing the warmth retention, moisture permeability, air permeability and moisture management ability, and the comprehensive evaluation of thermal-wet comfort was carried out by using the fuzzy mathematical evaluation method. The results show that the bionic fabrics of butterfly scale structure with Dryarn^® polypropylene yarn as surface yarn not only has good thermal-wet comfort performance, but can also manufactured conveniently and efficiently in terms of knitting technology. The finding broadens the idea of developing functional textiles from the aspect of fabric structure design.

Key words: knitted fabric, 3-D modeling, butterfly scale structure, thermal-wet comfort, fuzzy evaluation

中图分类号:

TS941.71

王莉, 张冰洁, 王建萍, 刘莉, 杨雅岚, 姚晓凤, 李倩文, 卢悠. 基于仿生学的冬季针织运动面料开发与性能评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(05): 66-72.

WANG Li, ZHANG Bingjie, WANG Jianping, LIU Li, YANG Yalan, YAO Xiaofeng, LI Qianwen, LU You. Development and performance evaluation of bionic knitted winter sports fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(05): 66-72.

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参考文献 12

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组别	织物编号	纱线种类	结构	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	厚度/mm	横密/ (纵行·(5 cm)^-1)	纵密/ (横列·(5 cm)^-1)
A组	1^#	聚丙烯纱线	波浪结构	497.3	2.116	66	95
	2^#	聚丙烯纱线	蝶翅结构	654.1	3.327	62	86
	3^#	聚丙烯纱线	蜂窝结构	579.3	2.684	75	115
B组	4^#	涤纶	波浪结构	492.5	2.215	68	100
	5^#	涤纶	蝶翅结构	643.9	3.367	65	97
	6^#	涤纶	蜂窝结构	564.9	2.823	75	125

织物编号		热阻/ (m²·K·W^-1)	传热系数/ (W·m^-2·℃^-1)	克罗值/ (10^-3clo)	保温率/%
A组	1^#	63.145	15.855	407.30	52.99
	2^#	104.765	9.565	676.05	65.13
	3^#	75.845	13.240	489.25	57.46
B组	4^#	57.44	19.29	336.65	49.61
	5^#	83.88	12.085	541.10	58.79
	6^#	65.725	15.65	423.95	52.61

组别		WTT/s	WTB/s	ART/(%·s^-1)	ARB/(%·s^-1)	MWRT/mm	MWRB/mm	SST/(mm·s^-1)	SSB/(mm·s^-1)	R/%
A组	1^#	18.26	46.24	171.21	127.02	5	10	0.272	0.176	102.13
	2^#	22.31	32.66	69.65	35.90	10	10	0.255	0.333	134.13
	3^#	27.95	36.84	72.69	37.14	5	5	0.178	0.135	-106.93
B组	4^#	17.14	119.95	230.97	0	5	0	0.289	0	-423.37
	5^#	11.98	119.95	77.60	0	5	0	0.442	0	-429.22
	6^#	16.28	119.95	81.41	0	5	0	0.204	0	-556.20

基于仿生学的冬季针织运动面料开发与性能评价

Development and performance evaluation of bionic knitted winter sports fabrics

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