纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (03): 9-13.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201005605

• 特约专栏:针织物全流程平幅印染技术 • 上一篇    下一篇

平幅前处理对棉针织物染色性能的影响

张滕家璐1,2, 吴伟1,2, 钟毅1,2, 毛志平1,2,3, 徐红1,2()   

  1. 1.东华大学 生态纺织教育部重点实验室, 上海 201620
    2.东华大学 化学化工与生物工程学院, 上海 201620
    3.国家先进印染技术创新中心, 山东 泰安 271000
  • 收稿日期:2020-10-26 修回日期:2020-12-23 出版日期:2021-03-15 发布日期:2021-03-17
  • 通讯作者: 徐红
  • 作者简介:张滕家璐(1996—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织物平幅连续印染加工。
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309700)

Effect of open width pretreatment on dyeing property of cotton knitted fabrics

ZHANG Tengjialu1,2, WU Wei1,2, ZHONG Yi1,2, MAO Zhiping1,2,3, XU Hong1,2()   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Science and Technology of Eco-Textile, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    2. College of Chemistry, Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    3. National Manufacturing Innovation Center of Advanced Dyeing and Finishing Technology, Tai'an, Shandong 271000, China
  • Received:2020-10-26 Revised:2020-12-23 Online:2021-03-15 Published:2021-03-17
  • Contact: XU Hong

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摘要：

针织物平幅连续前处理工艺具有高效、节水、低成本等优势,但处理后练漂半制品存在后续染色表观得色量较低的问题。为寻找解决这一问题的方法,对平幅前处理后棉针织物的性能及棉纤维的结构进行测试分析。研究结果表明:与传统浸渍前处理相比,采用平幅前处理后棉针织物的强力较高,白度及毛效相当,平幅轧染后的固色率及K/S值偏低;平幅前处理后棉纤维的超分子结构与传统浸渍前处理织物存在较大差异,平幅前处理后纤维结晶度较高,纤维内孔径分布范围较窄,孔道总容积及孔内表面积较小;通过联合半丝光处理优化棉针织物平幅前处理工艺,解决了棉针织物平幅前处理后染色效果不好的问题。

关键词: 棉针织物, 平幅前处理, 染色性能, 微隙结构, 表观深度, 半丝光处理

Abstract:

The open width continuous pretreatment of knitted fabric has the advantages of high efficiency, water saving and low cost. However, there is a problem of low apparent color yield in subsequent dyeing of semi-finished products after the treatment. In order to solve this problem, cotton knitted fabric properties and fiber structure after the open width pretreatment were measured and analyzed. The results show that compared with the traditional impregnation pretreatment, the cotton knitted fabric after open width pretreatment has higher strength, similar whiteness and capillary effect, lower fixation rate and K/S value after pad dyeing, the supramolecular structure of the cotton fiber is quite different from that of the traditional impregnation pretreatment. Compared with the impregnation process, the crystallinity of the fiber after open width pretreatment is higher, the pore size distribution is narrower, and the total pore volume and pore surface area is smaller. By adding semi-mercerizing treatment, the open width pretreatment process is improved.

Key words: cotton knitted fabric, open-width pretreatment, dyeing property, pore structure, color strength, semi-mercerizing treatment

中图分类号: 

  • TS192.5

表1

不同前处理工艺处理效果对比"

前处理工艺 质量损失率/% 顶破强力/N CIE白度/% 毛效(纵向)/cm H2O2残留量/(mg·g-1) 结晶度/%
未处理 — 380.38 — — — —
浸渍 4.8 364.90 70.04 11.2 0.105 62.7
平幅 3.5 366.75 70.12 10.7 0.104 67.9

表2

不同前处理工艺处理后棉针织物染色性能对比"

前处理
工艺		 固色率/% K/S值 耐摩擦色牢度/级 耐皂洗色牢度/级
干摩 湿摩 棉沾 毛沾
浸渍 82.26 11.89 5 4~5 4~5 4~5
平幅 73.17 10.72 5 4~5 4~5 4~5

图1

不同前处理工艺溶胀态棉纤维中水的融化曲线及纤维内部的孔径分布"

表3

不同前处理工艺棉纤维的孔性质"

前处理工艺 平均孔半径/nm 孔道总容积/
(cm3·g-1)		 孔内表面积/
(m2·g-1)
浸渍 70.36 0.39 10.97
平幅 77.23 0.22 5.77

图2

NaOH质量浓度对棉纤维结晶度与轧染染色效果的影响"

图3

不同前处理工艺溶胀态棉纤维内部的孔径分布图"

表4

半丝光处理后棉织物的性能"

白度/% 毛效/cm 强力/N 孔道总容积/
(cm3·g-1)		 孔内表面
积/(m2·g-1)		 结晶度/% 平幅轧染
固色率/% K/S值
70.46 10.7 390.30 0.67 19.35 58.0 87.31 13.02
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