对称循环渐变色彩设计及其色彩渐变纱纺制

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210603909

纺织学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (02): 116-124.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210603909

对称循环渐变色彩设计及其色彩渐变纱纺制

朱文硕¹, 薛元¹(), 徐志武², 于健², 曾德军²

1.江南大学纺织科学与工程学院, 江苏无锡 214122
2.巢湖雅戈尔色纺科技有限公司, 安徽合肥 253000

收稿日期:2021-06-15 修回日期:2021-11-25 出版日期:2022-02-15 发布日期:2022-03-15
通讯作者: 薛元
作者简介:朱文硕(1994—),男,博士生。主要研究方向为数字化纺纱。
基金资助:
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP51631A);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014] 37号)

Symmetrical periodic gradient color design and spinning of gradient colored yarns

ZHU Wenshuo¹, XUE Yuan¹(), XU Zhiwu², YU Jian², ZENG Dejun²

1. School of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
2. Chaohu Youngor Color Spinning Technology Co., Ltd., Hefei, Anhui 253000, China

Received:2021-06-15 Revised:2021-11-25 Published:2022-02-15 Online:2022-03-15
Contact: XUE Yuan

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

针对传统纺纱技术无法精确调控纱线色彩分布规律纺制色彩渐变纱线的技术弊端,提出了在线调控成形纱线色彩渐变的三通道数控纺纱机制并成功纺制了色彩渐变纱。设计了三色彩纤的耦合-叠加混色模式,构建了包含全体混合子样的混合比矩阵、混合色谱矩阵及其混合色谱;基于混合比矩阵规划了行渐变、列渐变和对角渐变等3类渐变路径,并给出了对应的渐变色谱矩阵及其渐变色谱;以青、品红、黄色三基色粗纱为例,设计了三通道数控纺纱工艺并纺制了3类16种色彩渐变纱。结果表明:数字化调控纱线混合比纺制的渐变色纱,其针织物呈现出周期性自然柔和的渐变色彩;纺制的渐变色纱力学性能和外观品质与色纺纱指标接近,但仍有可提升空间。

关键词: 对称循环渐变色, 渐变色纱, 混色模式, 渐变模式, 渐变路径, 数控纺纱

Abstract:

Aiming at the technical drawback that traditional spinning technique cannot be accurately control the color distribution in yarns and hence is unable to spin gradient colored yarns, a three-channel numerical control spinning mechanism that regulates yarn color gradient online was put forward, and the gradient colored yarn was successfully produced. The coupling-combination color mixing mode of three colored fibers was designed, and the mixing ratio matrix, mixing chromatography matrix and mixing chromatography including all mixing samples were constructed. Three gradient paths, i.e. the row gradient, column gradient and diagonal gradient, were planned based on the mixing ratio matrix, and the corresponding gradient chromatography matrix and gradient chromatography were generated. Taking green, magenta and yellow colored rovings as an example, a three-channel numerical control spinning process was designed and three types of 16 gradient colored yarns were spun. The results show that the knitted fabric made from the gradient yarn spun by digitally adjusting the yarn blending ratio shows periodic natural and soft gradient colors. The mechanical properties and appearance of the gradient colored yarn are close to the corresponding indexes of color-spun yarn, but with rooms for improvement.

Key words: symmetrical periodic gradient color, gradient yarn, color mixing mode, gradient mode, gradient path, numerical control spinning

中图分类号:

TS104.1

朱文硕, 薛元, 徐志武, 于健, 曾德军. 对称循环渐变色彩设计及其色彩渐变纱纺制[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(02): 116-124.

ZHU Wenshuo, XUE Yuan, XU Zhiwu, YU Jian, ZENG Dejun. Symmetrical periodic gradient color design and spinning of gradient colored yarns[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(02): 116-124.

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段号	行渐变纱								对角渐变纱
段号	F¹:F²:F³	E¹	E²	E³	F¹:F²:F³	E¹	E²	E³	F¹:F²:F³	E¹	E²	E³
D1	5:0:5	26.7	-	26.7	0:5:10	-	40.1	20.0	6:0:4	22.3	-	33.4
D2	5:1:5	29.4	147.0	29.4	1:5:9	200.5	40.1	22.3	7:1:3	21.0	147.0	49.0
D3	5:2:5	32.1	80.2	32.1	2:5:8	100.2	40.1	25.1	8:2:2	20.0	80.2	80.2
D4	5:3:5	34.7	57.9	34.7	3:5:7	66.8	40.1	28.6	9:3:1	19.3	57.9	173.7
D5	5:4:5	37.4	46.8	37.4	4:5:6	50.1	40.1	33.4	10:4:0	18.7	46.8	-
D6	5:5:5	40.1	40.1	40.1	5:5:5	40.1	40.1	40.1	10:5:0	20.0	40.1	-
D7	5:6:5	42.8	35.6	42.8	6:5:4	33.4	40.1	50.1	9:6:1	23.8	35.6	213.8
D8	5:7:5	45.4	32.5	45.4	7:5:3	28.6	40.1	66.8	8:7:2	28.4	32.5	113.6
D9	5:8:5	48.1	30.1	48.1	8:5:2	25.1	40.1	100.2	7:8:3	34.4	30.1	80.2
D10	5:9:5	50.8	28.2	50.8	9:5:1	22.3	40.1	200.5	6:9:4	42.3	28.2	63.5
D11	5:10:5	53.5	26.7	53.5	10:5:0	20.0	40.1	-	5:10:5	53.5	26.7	53.5
D12	5:9:5	50.8	28.2	50.8	9:5:1	22.3	40.1	200.5	4:10:6	66.8	26.7	44.5
D13	5:8:5	48.1	30.1	48.1	8:5:2	25.1	40.1	100.2	3:9:7	84.6	28.2	36.3
D14	5:7:5	45.4	32.5	45.4	7:5:3	28.6	40.1	66.8	2:8:8	120.3	30.1	30.1
D15	5:6:5	42.8	35.6	42.8	6:5:4	33.4	40.1	50.1	1:7:9	227.2	32.5	25.2
D16	5:5:5	40.1	40.1	40.1	5:5:5	40.1	40.1	40.1	0:6:10	-	35.6	21.4
D17	5:4:5	37.4	46.8	37.4	4:5:6	50.1	40.1	33.4	0:5:10	-	40.1	20.0
D18	5:3:5	34.7	57.9	34.7	3:5:7	66.8	40.1	28.6	1:4:9	187.1	46.8	20.8
D19	5:2:5	32.1	80.2	32.1	2:5:8	100.2	40.1	25.1	2:3:8	86.9	57.9	21.7
D20	5:1:5	29.4	147.0	29.4	1:5:9	200.5	40.1	22.3	3:2:7	53.5	80.2	22.9
D21									4:1:6	36.8	147.0	24.5
D22									5:0:5	26.7	-	26.7

渐变路径	断裂强度/ (cN·tex^-1)	断裂强度 CV值/ %	断裂伸长率/ %	条干 CV值/ %	毛羽 H值
行渐变1	20.3	13.51	7.81	16.14	4.84
行渐变4	19.0	10.88	8.07	18.19	4.52
行渐变6	21.0	8.57	7.1	13.52	4.87
行渐变8	16.9	10.26	7.67	18.2	4.5
行渐变11	17.4	9.56	7.66	16.46	4.82
列渐变1	18.8	12.08	6.38	17.91	4.99
列渐变4	16.6	9.20	6.40	17.57	4.69
列渐变6	17.4	7.45	7.26	15.86	4.51
列渐变8	16.3	10.41	7.18	16.25	4.49
列渐变11	16.3	11.85	7.77	15.86	4.42
对角渐变0	17.5	18.38	7.91	20.85	4.83
对角渐变3	17.0	11.53	7.64	18.03	4.81
对角渐变5	18.9	13.71	8.05	18.26	4.82
对角渐变6	18.7	11.82	7.74	18.34	4.73
对角渐变8	17.6	9.96	7.86	18.83	4.77
对角渐变11	17.9	12.56	7.61	20.5	4.85

对称循环渐变色彩设计及其色彩渐变纱纺制

Symmetrical periodic gradient color design and spinning of gradient colored yarns

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