纺织学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (07): 41-46.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210803207

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

空心锭包覆纺纱的芯纱残留捻回及其应用

敖利民1(), 楼焕2, 唐雯3   

  1. 1.嘉兴学院 材料与纺织工程学院, 浙江 嘉兴 314001
    2.上海工程技术大学 纺织服装学院, 上海 201620
    3.嘉兴学院 商学院, 浙江 嘉兴 314001
  • 收稿日期:2021-08-04 修回日期:2021-11-11 出版日期:2022-07-15 发布日期:2022-07-29
  • 作者简介:敖利民(1969—),男,教授,博士。主要研究方向为纺织新工艺、新技术与新产品。E-mail: aolimin@126.com
  • 基金资助:
    浙江省纱线材料成形与复合加工技术研究重点实验室开放基金项目(MTC-2022-01)

Residual twist of core yarn and its application in hollow spindle cover spinning

AO Limin1(), LOU Huan2, TANG Wen3   

  1. 1. College of Materials and Textile Engineering, Jiaxing University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314001, China
    2. School of Textiles and Fashion, Shanghai University of Engineering Science, Shanghai 201620, China
    3. College of Business, Jiaxing University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314001, China
  • Received:2021-08-04 Revised:2021-11-11 Published:2022-07-15 Online:2022-07-29

摘要:

为探讨空心锭包覆纺纱过程中外包缠纱对芯纱的假捻作用与应用,以黑、白两色涤纶长丝纱组成双芯纱,黑色涤纶长丝纱为外包缠纱,纺制了不同纺纱工艺的包覆纱,分析了芯纱残留捻回的捻向和捻度特征以及锭速、引纱速度、芯纱张力对芯纱残留捻度的影响;对利用芯纱残留捻度纺制段彩纱的原理与段彩特征进行了探讨,并给出了应用实例。结果表明:外包缠纱对芯纱缠绕的假捻作用,会使芯纱上形成残留捻向变化、捻度不等的捻回分布;残留捻回的捻度随锭速的增大、引纱速度的降低、芯纱张力的减小而增大;利用芯纱残留捻回的片段呈色效应,可用异色芯纱纺制具有段彩外观的“纱/纱”复合段彩纱,这种段彩纱具有区别于常规段彩纱的“闪色”特征。

关键词: 空心锭包覆纺纱, 芯纱, 假捻作用特征, 残留捻回, 复合段彩纱

Abstract:

In order to explore the characteristics and application of the false twist effect of the outer wrapping yarn on the core yarn in hollow spindle cover spinning process, covered yarns of different processes were produced with black and white polyester filament yarns as the double core yarn, and the black polyester filament yarn being the outer wrapping yarn. The influence of twist direction and twist number characteristics of core yarn as well as the spindle speed, yarn take-up speed and core yarn tension on core yarn residual twist were analyzed. The principle spinning segment color yarn with core yarn residual twist and the characteristics of segment color were discussed with exemplified applications. The results show that the false twist effect of the outer wrapping yarn on the core yarn causes the residual twist to be unevenly distributed in the core yarn. The twist number of the residual twist increases with the rise in the spindle speed, the slowing down of the take-up speed and reduction of the core yarn tension. Using the "fragment coloring" effect of the core yarn residual twist, the "yarn/yarn" composite segment color yarn with a segment color appearance can be spun from the different color core yarns, and the composite yarn has the characteristic of "flashing color" which is different from the conventional segment colored yarns.

Key words: hollow spindle cover spinning, core yarn, false twist effect, residual twist, segment colored yarns

中图分类号: 

  • TS104.1

图1

异色双纱并合—加捻分色—包缠—片段呈色原理"

图2

纺纱原理图 1,2—芯纱筒子; 3—弹簧式张力器; 4—空心锭; 5—锭管; 6—汇合导纱钩; 7—外包缠纱; 8—引纱辊; 9—导纱杆; 10—横动导纱器; 11—卷绕辊; 12—管纱。"

图3

“(白+黑)白”复合纱纱卡"

表1

不同锭速复合纱黑色色段测试结果"

锭速/(r·min-1) 包缠捻度/(捻·m-1) 黑色段数量
均值/个 CV值/%
15 000 600 8.0 1.9
12 500 500 6.2 1.6
9 275 375 5.0 1.2
7 500 300 3.4 1.2

表2

不同引纱速度复合纱黑色色段测试结果"

引纱速度/(m·min-1) 包缠捻度/(捻·m-1) 黑色段数量
均值/个 CV值/%
50 300 5.5 1.8
30 500 8.0 1.9
25 600 8.0 1.9
20 750 9.1 1.8

表3

不同芯纱张力复合纱黑色色段测试结果"

芯纱张力 黑色段数量
均值/个 CV值/%
张力1 8.0 1.9
张力2 6.7 2.2
张力3 5.4 1.4
张力4 4.4 1.3

图4

蚕丝段彩复合纱纱卡"

图5

亚麻/涤长丝复合段彩纱纱卡"

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AO Limin, TANG Wen. Processing method, composite yarn and equipment of multi-color segment colored flax and chemical fiber filament wrapped composite yarn:201810728922.2[P]. 2019-08-06.
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