欧盟纺织产业链上的绿色循环及废旧纺织品处理关键问题

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210804507

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

“碳中和”愿景下纺织行业的碳排放与绿色可持续发展间的矛盾日益凸显,纺织行业降污减碳不能只关注末端废旧纺织品处理,应该从产业链上降低对环境的消极影响。欧盟在实现纺织产业低碳循环发展和应对废旧纺织品上采取了一系列实践措施,从欧盟纺织产业现状和挑战、纺织产业链上的绿色低碳措施、废旧纺织品的处理及关键问题3个方面介绍了欧盟纺织产业链上的相关情况,并探讨了其对我国的启示;受生命周期评价法碳足迹核算方法的启发,将纺织产业链划分为材料选用、设计、生产和销售、使用4个阶段来探讨绿色低碳措施。提出废旧纺织品的应对方法是再使用和回收再利用,处理废旧纺织品的关键问题是分类与分拣、回收质量与安全性、生产者责任延伸制度和标签系统。

关键词: 欧盟, 碳中和, 废旧纺织品, 循环经济, 回收再利用, 生产者责任延伸制度

Abstract:

The contradiction between waste textiles and green sustainable development is becoming increasingly prominent under the vision of carbon neutrality. The textile industry should not only focus on the treatment of end-of-life waste textiles, but also reduce the negative impact on the environment from the industrial chain. Due to the systematic and comprehensive impact of carbon footprint, carbon emission reduction measures should be based on the industrial chain and textile life cycle. The European Union (EU) has a series of measures to achieve circular economy and deal with waste textiles, which are of reference significance. The EU's relevant situation was explored in three aspects, i.e., the current situation and challenges of the EU textile industry, the sustainability in the textile industry chain, and the disposal and key issues of waste textiles. The enlightenment of the EU's experience to the policy making in China was also discussed. Inspired by the carbon footprint accounting method of the life cycle assessment, the textile industry chain was divided into four stages: material selection, design, production and sales, and end-use to discuss green and low-carbon measures, and the response method of waste textiles is reuse and recycling. The key issues in processing waste textiles are classification and sorting, recycling quality and safety, extended producer responsibility and labeling system.

Key words: European Union, carbon neutrality, waste textiles, circular economy, recycling, extended producer responsibility

中图分类号:

TS102.9

杨星, 李轻舟, 吴敏, 周永凯. 欧盟纺织产业链上的绿色循环及废旧纺织品处理关键问题[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(01): 106-112.

YANG Xing, LI Qingzhou, WU Min, ZHOU Yongkai. Circular economy in European Union textile industry chain and key issues of waste textiles treatment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(01): 106-112.

图/表 1

图1

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