纺织学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (01): 201-207.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909807

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

服装企业环保主张对消费者购买意愿的影响

侯一鸣1, 鲁成1,2()   

  1. 1.东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
    2.东华大学 现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 200051
  • 收稿日期:2021-09-27 修回日期:2021-10-12 出版日期:2022-01-15 发布日期:2022-01-28
  • 通讯作者: 鲁成
  • 作者简介:侯一鸣(1998—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装产业经济及品牌营销管理。
  • 基金资助:
    中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232022G-08);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232021E-03)

Impact of environmental claims of garment enterprises on consumers' purchase intention

HOU Yiming1, LU Cheng1,2()   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2021-09-27 Revised:2021-10-12 Published:2022-01-15 Online:2022-01-28
  • Contact: LU Cheng

摘要:

为提升消费者对服装企业不同类型环保主张辨识度,通过实证研究测量不同恐惧诉求水平下消费者对关联型与实质型环保主张反馈差异。采用独立样本T检验、回归分析,讨论不同类型环保主张下消费者购买意愿差异及感知绿色价值的中介作用。通过实验研究发现:与无环保主张的参照组相比,被试者对持环保主张企业有更积极的购买态度;但与关联型环保主张相比,实质型被试者购买意愿无显著差异;恐惧诉求可激发被试者对实质型与关联型环保主张的购买意愿差异;低恐惧诉求条件下,关联型与实质型环保主张消费者购买意愿无显著差异;但高恐惧诉求条件下,被试者对实质型环保主张较关联型环保主张有更积极购买意愿,且感知绿色价值在其中起中介作用。

关键词: 关联型环保主张, 实质型环保主张, 恐惧诉求, 感知绿色价值, 洗绿, 服装绿色消费

Abstract:

In order to improve consumers' recognition of different type's environmental claims of garment enterprises, this research examines consumers' responses to substantive environmentally related claims by the garment enterprises under different fear appeals. Independent-samples T-test and regression analysis were used to discuss the impact of the environmental claims on consumers' purchase intention as well as the mediating effects of perceived green value. Through two experimental studies, it was found that compared with the reference group that did not put forward environmental claim, the subjects have higher purchasing attitude towards enterprises that put forward environmental claim. However, there is no significant difference in purchase intention between substantive and related environmental claim conditions. The research also revealed that fear appeal can stimulate the difference of subjects' purchase intention between substantive and related environmental claim conditions. Under low fear appeal condition, there is no significant difference in consumers' purchase intention between related and substantive environmental claim conditions. However, under high fear appeal condition, subjects have higher purchase intention for substantive environmental claim than related environmental claim, with perceived green value as mediation.

Key words: related environmental claims, substantive environmental claims, fear appeals, perceived green value, green washing, clothing green consumption

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.12

表1

实验量表及参考来源"

变量 测量变量 参考文献
环保主张操纵检验 该品牌的绿色主张和行动非常具体 [35]
该品牌的绿色主张和行动非常清楚可行
购买意愿 我购买该品牌的可能性极大 [42]
如果我有兴趣购买一件服装,我会更愿意购买该品牌
如果我有兴趣购买一件服装,我会考虑购买该品牌
恐惧诉求操纵检验 观看图片后,我感到害怕 [39]
观看图片后,我感到焦虑
观看图片后,我感到恐惧
感知绿色
价值
选择该品牌有助于改善生态环境 [41]
选择该品牌会减少对环境的污染
该品牌对社会发展有好处
该品牌行动有利于提高环保意识
[1] 中华人民共和国生态环境部. 第二次全国污染源普查公报[EB/OL]. (2020-06-10)[2021-02-06]. http://www.mee.gov.cn/xxgk2018/xxgk/xxgk01/202006/W020200610353985963290.pdf.
Ministry of Ecology and Environment of the People's Republic of China. Bulletin of the second national census of pollution sources [EB/OL]. (2020-06-10)[2021-02- 06]. http://www.mee.gov.cn/xxgk2018/xxgk/xxgk01/202006/W020200610353985963290.pdf.
[2] 薛澜, 翁凌飞. 中国实现联合国2030年可持续发展目标的政策机遇和挑战[J]. 中国软科学, 2017(1): 1-12.
XUE Lan, WENG Lingfei. The policy opportunities and challenges in China's implementation of 2030 Sustainable Development Goals[J]. China Soft Science, 2017(1): 1-12.
[3] 鲜祖德, 巴运红, 成金璟. 联合国2030年可持续发展目标指标及其政策关联研究[J]. 统计研究, 2021, 38(1): 4-14.
XIAN Zude, BA Yunhong, CHENG Jinjing. Relevance study on United Nations 2030 sustainable development goal (SDG) indicators and the policies[J]. Statistical Research, 2021, 38(1): 4-14.
[4] HABIB M A, BAO Y K, NABI N, et al. Impact of strategic orientations on the implementation of green supply chain management practices and sustainable firm[J]. Sustainability, 2021, 13(1): 340.
doi: 10.3390/su13010340
[5] 董浩, 张丽平, 刘怡宁, 等. 聚乳酸纤维原液着色用改性炭黑的制备及其性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(5): 64-69.
DONG Hao, ZHANG Liping, LIU Yining, et al. Preparation and properties of modified carbon black for dope dyeing of polylactic acid fiber[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(5): 64-69.
[6] 欧阳鹏飞, 张玉芳, 贾春紫, 等. 用竹浆粕/离子液体复配体系纺制的再生纤维及其性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(1): 21-25,38.
OUYANG Pengfei, ZHANG Yufang, JIA Chunzi, et al. Properties of regenerated fibers from bamboo pulp /ionic liquid combined system[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(1): 21-25,38.
[7] 俞璐, 王立川, 陈雁. 服装生产过程碳排放计算模型[J]. 纺织学报, 2016, 37(3): 156-159.
YU Lu, WANG Lichuan, CHEN Yan. Calculation model of carbon emission in garment production processes[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2016, 37(3): 156-159.
[8] 王来力, 吴雄英, 丁雪梅, 等. 纺织品及服装的工业水足迹核算与评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(9): 162-167.
WANG Laili, WU Xiongying, DING Xuemei, et al. Calculation and assessment of industrial water footprint of textiles and apparel[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017, 38(9): 162-167.
[9] 中华人民共和国国家统计局. 中国统计年鉴 [M]. 北京: 中国统计出版社, 2020: 170.
National Bureau of Statistics. 2020 China statistical yearbook [M]. Beijing: China Statistics Press, 2020: 170.
[10] VAINIO A, PULKKA A, PALONIEMI R. Citizens' sustainable, future-oriented energy behaviours in energy transition[J]. Journal of Cleaner Production, 2020, 245:118801.
doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.118801
[11] FRANCESCO T, GAIA P, ROBERTA I, et al. Drivers to green consumption: a systematic review[J]. Environment, Development and Sustainability, 2021, 23(4): 4826-4880.
doi: 10.1007/s10668-020-00844-5
[12] MING L T, RADITIA Y S. Sustainable packaged food and beverage consumption transition in Indonesia: persuasive communication to affect consumer behavior[J]. Resources, Conservation & Recycling, 2020, 161:104933.
[13] TINA J. Personal norms in a globalized world: norm-activation processes and reduced clothing consumption[J]. Journal of Cleaner Production, 2019, 212:941-949.
doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.11.191
[14] CHI T. Consumer perceived value of environmentally friendly apparel: an empirical study of Chinese consumers[J]. Journal of The Textile Institute, 2015, 106(10): 1038-1050.
doi: 10.1080/00405000.2014.985879
[15] ZIBENBERG A, GREENSPAN I, KATZ G T, et al. Environmental behavior among Russian youth: the role of self-direction and environmental concern[J]. Environmental Management, 2018, 62(2): 295-304.
doi: 10.1007/s00267-018-1032-7
[16] 毛振福, 余伟萍, 李雨轩. 企业环保主张对消费者绿色购买意愿的影响机制研究[J]. 商业经济与管理, 2019(9): 68-78.
MAO Zhenfu, YU Weiping, LI Yuxuan. Research on the influence mechanism of corporate environmental claims on consumers' green purchase intention[J]. Journal of Business Economics, 2019(9): 68-78.
[17] HARTMANN P, APAOLAZA I V. Green advertising revisited:conditioning virtual nature experiences[J]. International Journal of Advertising, 2009, 28(4): 715-739.
doi: 10.2501/S0265048709200837
[18] ANA B B, MIGUEL F S S, SERGIO R R. Green but ignored? the irrelevance of television advertisements on energy sustainability in Spain and its impact on consumer perceptions[J]. Energy Research & Social Science, 2021, 73:101835.
[19] MANUELA V Z, FRANCISCO J T R. Towards sustainable consumption: keys to communication for improving trust in organic foods[J]. Journal of Cleaner Production, 2019, 216:511-519.
doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.12.129
[20] TEONA G, KO E, KIM S J. Environmental claims in online video advertising:effects for fast-fashion and luxury brands[J]. International Journal of Advertising, 2019, 39(6): 858-887.
doi: 10.1080/02650487.2019.1644144
[21] JOSEPHINE P B, RITSUKO O. Pro-environmental products: marketing influence on consumer purchase decision[J]. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 2008, 25:281-293.
doi: 10.1108/07363760810890516
[22] SONG S Y, KIM Y K. A human-centered approach to green apparel advertising decision tree predictive modeling of consumer choice[J]. Sustainability, 2018. DOI: 10.3390/su10103688.
doi: 10.3390/su10103688
[23] CALSON L, GROVE S J, KANGUN N. A content analysis of environmental advertising claims: a matrix method approach[J]. Journal of Advertising, 1993, 22(3): 27-39.
doi: 10.1080/00913367.1993.10673409
[24] SEGEV S, FERNANDES J, HONG C. Is your product really green? a content analysis to reassess green advertising[J]. Journal of Advertising, 2016, 45(1): 85-93.
doi: 10.1080/00913367.2015.1083918
[25] CHAN R Y K, LAU L B Y. The effectiveness of environmental claims among Chinese consumers: influences of claim type, country disposition and ecocentric orientation[J]. Journal of Marketing Management, 2004, 20(3/4): 273-319.
doi: 10.1362/026725704323080425
[26] OLSON J C, PHILIP A D. Cognitive effects of deceptive advertising[J]. Journal of Marketing Research, 1978, 15(1): 29-38.
doi: 10.1177/002224377801500105
[27] SCHMUCK D, MATTHES J, NADERER B. Misleading consumers with green advertising? an affect-reason-involvement account of greenwashing effects in environmental advertising[J]. Journal of Advertising, 2018, 47(2): 127-145.
doi: 10.1080/00913367.2018.1452652
[28] TILLMANN W, RICHARD J L, BARTON A W. Corporate hypocrisy: overcoming the threat of inconsistent corporate social responsibility perceptions[J]. Journal of Marketing Management, 2009, 73(6): 77-91.
[29] BAUM L M. It's not easy being green … or is it? a content analysis of environmental claims in magazine advertisements from the United States and United Kingdom[J]. Journal of Nature and Culture, 2012, 6(4): 423-440.
[30] KIM W, CHA S. How attributes of green advertising affect purchase intention: the moderating role of consumer innovativeness[J]. Sustainability, 2021.DOI: 10.3390/su13168723.
doi: 10.3390/su13168723
[31] LIAO Y K, WU W Y, PHAM T T. Examining the moderating effects of green marketing and green psychological benefits on customers' green attitude, value and purchase intention[J]. Sustainability, 2020. DOI: 10.3390/su12187461.
doi: 10.3390/su12187461
[32] KONG H M, WITMAIERB, KO E. Sustainability and social media communication: how consumers respond to marketing efforts of luxury and non-luxury fashion brands[J]. Journal of Business Research, 2021, 131:640-651.
doi: 10.1016/j.jbusres.2020.08.021
[33] AZZURRA A, ANGELA M. Effectiveness of sustainability labels in guiding food choices: analysis of visibility and understanding among young adults[J]. Sustainable Production and Consumption, 2019, 17:108-115.
doi: 10.1016/j.spc.2018.09.005
[34] KIM M, CHUN E, KO E. The effects of environmental claim types and consumer vocabulary on eco fashion advertisement[J]. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 2017, 19(2): 166-179.
[35] 孙瑾, 张红霞. 服务业中绿色广告主张对消费者决策的影响:基于归因理论的视角[J]. 当代财经, 2015(3): 67-78.
SUN Jin, ZHANG Hongxia. On the impact of green ads in service industry on consumers'decision: from the perspective of attribution theory[J]. Contemporary Finance & Economics, 2015(3): 67-78.
[36] 王璐瑶, 李琪. 恐惧诉求对社交网络用户隐私安全保护行为的影响研究[J]. 情报杂志, 2016, 35(12): 69-74.
WANG Luyao, LI Qi. User's protection behavioral intention of privacy information security on social network site based on the fear appeals theory[J]. Journal of Intelligence, 2016, 35(12): 69-74.
[37] STRONG J T, DUBAS K M. The optimal level of fear-arousal in advertising: an empirical study[J]. Journal of Current Issues and Research in Advertising, 1993, 15(2): 93-99.
doi: 10.1080/10641734.1993.10505006
[38] BLOCK L G, WILLIAMS P. Undoing the effects of seizing and freezing: decreasing defensive processing of personally relevant messages[J]. Journal of Applied Social Psychology, 2002, 32(4): 803-833.
doi: 10.1111/jasp.2002.32.issue-4
[39] BIN S, YANA K. Green with fear: fear appeals and temporal framing in eco-friendly clothing advertising[J]. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 2020, 11:1-15.
[40] WITTE K. Putting the fear back into fear appeals: the extended parallel process model[J]. Communications Monographs, 1992, 59(4): 329-349.
doi: 10.1080/03637759209376276
[41] 杨晓燕, 周懿瑾. 绿色价值:顾客感知价值的新维度[J]. 中国工业经济, 2006(7): 110-116.
YANG Xiaoyan, ZHOU Yijin. Green value: a new dimension of customer perceived values[J]. China Industrial Economy, 2006(7): 110-116.
[42] KOZUP J C, CREYER E H, BURTON S. Making healthful food choices: the influence of health claims and nutrition information on consumers' evaluations of packaged food products and restaurant menu items[J]. Journal of Marketing, 2003, 67(2): 19-34.
[43] 温忠麟, 张雷, 侯杰泰, 等. 中介效应检验程序及其应用[J]. 心理学报, 2004, 36(5): 614-620.
WEN Zhonglin, ZHANG Lei, HAU Kit Tai, et al. Testing and application of the mediating effects[J]. Acta Psychologica Sinica, 2004, 36(5): 614-620.
[44] BARON R M, KENNY D A. The moderator-mediator variable distinction in social psychological research: conceptual, strategic, and statistical considerations[J]. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 1986, 51(6): 1173-1182.
doi: 10.1037/0022-3514.51.6.1173
[45] JUDD C M, KENNY D A. Process analysis:estimating medi ation in treatment evaluations[J]. Evaluation Review, 1981, 5(5): 602-619.
doi: 10.1177/0193841X8100500502
[1] 何琳, 陈李红, 丁雪梅. 基于跨理论模型的服装可持续消费行为研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(11): 143-150.
[2] 李倩文, 王建萍, 杨雅岚, 张冰洁, 李知霖. 基于数量化理论I的男西装款式要素感性评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(05): 155-161.
[3] 李倩文, 王建萍, 杨雅岚, 张冰洁, 李知霖, 王莉. 基于意象尺度的男西装造型风格认知评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(04): 149-154.
[4] 邱丽俊, 陈李红. 基于熵值法的服装品牌形象价值创造指标定量化评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(07): 160-166.
[5] 蔡建梅, 祝焕. 基于区块链技术的服装产品开发机制[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(10): 183-190.
[6] 张苏道, 薛文良, 魏孟媛, 周黄鹂. 眼动仪在服装面料色彩视觉评价中的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(03): 139-145.
[7] 邢乐 梁惠娥 刘传兰. 中式服装消费意向的影响因素[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(03): 155-161.
[8] 亓延;范雪荣;崔荣荣. 礼教文化视野下的近代齐鲁服饰文化变迁[J]. 纺织学报, 2010, 31(3): 104-110.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited

  Shared   
  Discussed   
[1] 赵良臣;闻涛. 旋转组织设计的数学原理[J]. 纺织学报, 2003, 24(06): 33 -34 .
[2] 曹建达;顾小军;殷联甫. 用BP神经网络预测棉织物的手感[J]. 纺织学报, 2003, 24(06): 35 -36 .
[3] 【作者单位】:中国纺织工程学会秘书处【分类号】:+【DOI】:cnki:ISSN:0-.0.00-0-0【正文快照】:  香港桑麻基金会设立的“桑麻纺织科技奖” 0 0 年提名推荐工作;在纺织方面院士;专家和有关单位的大力支持下;收到了 个单位 (人 )推荐的 位候选人的. 2003年桑麻纺织科技奖获奖名单[J]. 纺织学报, 2003, 24(06): 107 .
[4] 【分类号】:Z【DOI】:cnki:ISSN:0-.0.00-0-0【正文快照】:  一;纺 纱模糊控制纺纱张力的研究周光茜等 ( - )………………原棉含杂与除杂效果评价方法的研究于永玲 ( - )……网络长丝纱免浆免捻功能的结构表征方法李栋高等 ( - )……………. 2003年纺织学报第二十四卷总目次[J]. 纺织学报, 2003, 24(06): 109 -620 .
[5] 邓炳耀;晏雄. 热压对芳纶非织造布机械性能的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2004, 25(02): 103 -104 .
[6] 张治国;尹红;陈志荣. 纤维前处理用精练助剂研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2004, 25(02): 105 -107 .
[7] 秦元春. 纺织工业发展方向初探[J]. 纺织学报, 2004, 25(02): 108 -110 .
[8] 高伟江;魏文斌. 纺织业发展的战略取向——从比较优势到竞争优势[J]. 纺织学报, 2004, 25(02): 111 -113 .
[9] 姚玉元;陈文兴;张利;潘勇. 催化氧化型消臭蚕丝纤维的研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2004, 25(03): 7 -8 .
[10] 潘旭伟;顾新建;韩永生;程耀东. 面向协同的服装供应链快速反应机制研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2006, 27(1): 54 -57 .