关键词: 提花织物, 组织结构, 全显技术组织, 组织起始点, 优选设计

Abstract:

Objective The setting of starting point position in combination of three full-color basic weaves forms the basis of the full-color weave database, and the diversified basic weaves starting point position setting methods affect the design of the entire shaded-weave database with full-color weaves, thereby affecting the color rendering effect of the fabric. In order to explore the internal law of the setting of starting point position in combination of three basic full-color weaves on color rendering effect of fabric, different starting point positions were used to design the combination of three basic weaves with full-color weaves, and the characteristics of color development of the structure were studied.
Method Using a 16-end 3-step number sateen weave as the basic weave, 4 different positional relationship of basic weaves starting point position were set to design the combination of three basic full-color weaves, and 4 groups of shaded-weave database were formed with the combination of three basic full-color weaves. Color card design and weaving and color measurement analysis were carried out to obtain color data. The fabric was measured by the Color i7 spectrophotometer to obtain the color data for structural color development, and the uniformity of the gradient color was obtained by comparing the variance of chromatic difference. In addition, by comparing the relationship between the weave and the fabric structure on the surface of the fabric, the reason for the sudden change in color development of the fabric surface was obtained.
Results Through the comparative analysis of color rendering characteristics, the results showed that the fabric gradient color rendering transition with uneven distribution at the combination of three basic weaves starting point position produces polarization, and the fabric with uniform distribution at the base weaves start point has a more uniform fabric gradient color rendering effect(Fig. 8). Based on the color data of four groups of samples collected by color measurement, the color difference formula was used to calculate the color difference of each adjacent two pieces of fabrics with different base weaves starting point positions in the four groups, and it was obtained that the combination of three basic weaves with evenly distributed starting point position settings had the smallest color difference value and the gradient color rendering transition was the best(Tab. 1). The analysis of fabric surface texture and fabric brightness value revealed that the full-color weaves of the combination of three basic weaves with evenly distributed of the starting point position showed small variation in fabric brightness(Tab. 2) and increase oblique obviousness of the texture in the area with large fabric brightness(Fig. 9). Finally, by comparing the color relationship of the fabric and the surface texture effect, it is concluded that the position setting of the starting point in the full-color weaves of the combination of three basic weaves will affect the position change of the floating length of the color weft, which not only affects the saturation of the fabric color and the obviousness of the texture oblique, but also the root cause of the color mutation(Fig. 11).
Conclusion In this paper, the basic principle of the starting point position setting affecting the color rendering of the combined full-color weaves is analyzed, and the method of optimizing the starting point position of the full-color weaves of the combination of three basic weaves is proposed, and the effectiveness of the optimization design method on the gradient color rendering effect of the fabric is verified by experiments, and the following conclusions are drawn through research: 1) In the three basic weave combined full-color weaves, the position setting of the starting point of the basic weaves will affect the position relationship between the color developing weft in the combined full-color weaves, and finally affect the gradient color rendering effect of the fabric. Synchronization will produce different accumulation of warp lengths, forming a clear texture oblique direction, which affects the color saturation of the fabric structure. 2) Under the method of increasing the point in the unified direction, the more uniform the distribution of the starting point position of the basic tissue, the more uniform the color mixing transition of the color development weft, and the optimal gradient color rendering effect. The results of this research provide a technical reference for the digital optimization design of the combination of three basic weaves with full-color weaves jacquard fabrics.

Key words: jacquard fabric, compound structure, full-color weave, starting point of weave, optimization design