充气保暖服装的充气尺寸变化率测试与应用

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211107706

纺织学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (12): 138-143.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211107706

充气保暖服装的充气尺寸变化率测试与应用

苗雪¹, 王永进¹(), 王方明²

1.北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院, 北京 100029
2.苏州市兴丰强纺织科技有限公司, 江苏苏州 215227

收稿日期:2021-11-17 修回日期:2022-09-21 出版日期:2022-12-15 发布日期:2023-01-06
通讯作者: 王永进
作者简介:苗雪(1997—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装设计与技术。
基金资助:
北京服装学院研究生科研创新项目(120301990131)

Testing and application for change rate of inflation size of inflatable warm clothing

MIAO Xue¹, WANG Yongjin¹(), WANG Fangming²

1. School of Fashion, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029, China
2. Suzhou Xingfengqiang Textile Technology Co., Ltd., Suzhou, Jiangsu 215227, China

Received:2021-11-17 Revised:2022-09-21 Published:2022-12-15 Online:2023-01-06
Contact: WANG Yongjin

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

充气保暖服的充气尺寸变化率直接影响其样板的制作设计,为更好地掌握二者之间的关系,测试了6种不同充气面料同种压胶形状,在30%、50%、70%、100%这4种不同充气状态下,经纬向的充气尺寸变化率变化情况。结果表明:充气量与充气尺寸变化率有较强的正相关关系;不同面料在相同充气状态下,经向尺寸变化率均大于纬向尺寸变化率,并且当充气状态达到70%左右时,经向尺寸变化率增幅减弱,而纬向尺寸变化率逐步变小。通过分析得到充气服最大经纬向充气尺寸变化率,可作为充气服基本长度和围度之外,所需增大尺寸的设计参考,根据推板式放量方法,将充气尺寸变化率应用到充气保暖服装样板尺寸设计中。

关键词: 充气服装, 保暖服装, 充气量, 尺寸变化率, 服装样板

Abstract:

Change rate of inflation size of inflatable warm clothing directly affects the design and production of such products. In order to better grasp the relationship between the two, 6 different inflatable fabrics of the same laminating shape, with 30%, 50%, 70%, 100% different inflatable states, were tested, and the change rate of inflation size of these clothing models were evaluated in the warp and weft directions. The experimental results show that the amount of inflation and the change rate of inflation size have a strong positive correlation. For different fabrics with the same inflation, the warp change rate of inflation size rate is greater than the weft change rate of inflation size, and when the inflatable state reaches about 70%, the increase in the warp change rate of inflation size rate weakens, and the weft change rate of inflation size rate gradually becomes smaller. Through the analysis, the maximum warp and weft change rate of inflation size rates of the inflatable garment are obtained, which can be used as a design reference for the increase in the size required to increase the size of the inflatable garment in addition to the basic length and circumference. The change rate of inflation size was applied to the size design of the inflatable warm clothing sample according to the push layout release method.

Key words: inflatable clothing, warm clothing, inflation amount, change rate of size, clothing model

中图分类号:

TS941.7

苗雪, 王永进, 王方明. 充气保暖服装的充气尺寸变化率测试与应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(12): 138-143.

MIAO Xue, WANG Yongjin, WANG Fangming. Testing and application for change rate of inflation size of inflatable warm clothing[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(12): 138-143.

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面料编号	面布	底布	PU膜	面密度/ (g·m^-2)
1	450 tex高弹春亚纺	同面布	15代膜	186
2	270 tex高弹春亚纺	同面布	15代膜	166
3	270 tex斜高弹春亚纺	450 tex飘纱	15代膜	164
4	斜高弹雪梨纺	同面布	15代膜	213
5	平纹雪梨纺	同面布	15代膜	246
6	锦纶四面弹	同面布	15代膜	263

面料编号	经向	纬向
1	0.70	0.33
2	0.75	0.30
3	0.80	0.35
4	0.90	0.40
5	0.60	0.24
6	0.65	0.30

充气量比例	面料1
充气量比例	经向	纬向	经向	纬向	经向	纬向	经向	纬向	经向	纬向	经向	纬向
30	1.75	1.25	1.75	1.25	2.00	1.25	2.50	1.75	2.00	1.00	3.00	1.25
50	8.00	6.75	5.75	4.50	8.75	6.75	8.25	6.25	9.50	7.00	10.75	7.50
70	15.50	13.75	17.00	13.25	18.75	12.00	17.50	13.00	18.00	12.50	17.50	10.75
100	19.25	11.25	18.25	10.75	18.75	9.25	18.75	10.00	18.75	11.25	18.75	3.75

因子	面料		充气量		经向尺寸变化率		纬向尺寸变化率
因子	皮尔逊相关性	Sig.双侧	皮尔逊相关性	Sig.双侧	皮尔逊相关性	Sig.双侧	皮尔逊相关性	Sig.双侧
面料	1.000		0.000	1.000	0.076	0.723	-0.114	0.596
充气量	0.000	1.000	1.000		0.929^**	0.000	0.710^**	0.000
经向尺寸变化率	0.076	0.723	0.929^**	0.000	1.000		0.876^**	0.000
纬向尺寸变化率	-0.114	0.596	0.710^**	0.000	0.876^**	0.000	1.000

充气量占比	平均经向尺寸变化率	平均纬向尺寸变化率
30	2.17	1.29
50	8.50	6.46
70	17.38	12.54
100	18.75	9.38

充气保暖服装的充气尺寸变化率测试与应用

Testing and application for change rate of inflation size of inflatable warm clothing

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[1]	张益洁, 李涛, 吕叶馨, 杜磊, 邹奉元. 服装松量设计及表征模型构建研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(04): 184-190.
[2]	苏文桢, 宋文芳, 卢业虎, 杨秀月. 充气防寒服的保暖性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(02): 115-118.
[3]	刘为敏谢红. BP神经网络下的智能化合体服装样板生成[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(07): 116-121.