废旧纺织服装回收与再利用研究进展

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220306202

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为促进废旧纺织服装资源高值化循环利用,从废旧纺织服装回收与再利用国内外现状、技术手段以及市场体系3个方面,分析我国废旧纺织服装回收与再利用现存问题,归纳废旧纺织服装回收与再利用常见技术,评述废旧纺织服装回收与再利用循环产业链与组织模式,基于循环经济减量化、再利用、再循环、再制造(简称4R)原则,总结我国废旧纺织服装回收与再利用体系研究进展。认为我国废旧纺织服装回收与再利用未来发展应为4大方向:二手纺织服装市场深耕细作、回收再利用环节标准化、核心技术升级和资源循环利用意识提升。同时,提出各方协作、因地施政、重视科研等总体建议,以期为纺织服装行业实现高效生态经济提供参考。

关键词: 废旧纺织服装, 循环产业链, 再利用技术, 回收与再利用系统

Abstract:

Significance Sustained development is one of China's long-term strategies, and recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing plays an important role in this policy. Recycling, sorting and reuse are main procedures for recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing, and the ways to recycle and reuse waste textile and clothing influence the effect of recycling and reuse. This paper collates and reviews the current academic research and industry development in recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing in detail, and expounds the whole recycling and reusing system of waste textile and clothing based circular economy 4R(reduce,reuse,recycle,remanufacture)principles aiming to enrich the theory and promote the high-value recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing resources, hoping to realize efficient ecological economy.

Progress The current situation of the recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing in China and abroad, the recycling and reuse technical methods and the market system are reviewed. The recycling and reuse patterns of waste textile and clothing are various. Compared with some overseas developed countries, China has some shortages in public policy, enterprise leadership and the cooperation among organizations. Sorting technology and reuse technology are the core technology of the recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing, among which sorting technology consists of artificial method, general qualitative and quantitative analysis methods, near infrared spectroscopy and other technologies, reusing technology mainly covers clean technology, physical reuse methods and chemical reuse methods. Artificial method is the most common sorting method. Physical loosening method and remelting processing method are common high value-added physical reuse methods. The industrial chain of recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing starts from the end of the traditional textile and clothing industry chain, and ends with the recycling-reusing products. Two organizational operation forms are adopted for the recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing. One is the reverse organization operation mode of enterprises, the other is the social network organization operation mode. Each mode has its advantages and disadvantages. This paper analyzes the recycling and reuse system of waste textile and clothing based on the 4R principle of circular economy. The "reduce" principle is the first choice for the textile and clothing industry to solve the resource and environmental problems.

Conclusion and Prospect Recycling and reuse industry of waste textile and clothing is still in primary stage in China. It is still a long way for China to reach the level of developed countries. This paper proposes four suggestions for the future development in recycling and reuse waste textile and clothing in China. First, intensively cultivating second-hand textile and clothing market is essential, because second-hand textile and clothing market is valuable in recycling and reuse development. Second, standardizing recycling and reuse links is also important that could built standardization technical process and industry green assurance system. Third, focusing on core technology is also necessary. Technology development will greatly promote the recycling and reuse effect of waste textile and clothing industry. Beside all above, enhancing the awareness of resource recycling and reuse in all society is also a significant step by virtue of the fact that the improvement of the recycling-reusing awareness will help all recycling links become more active and initiative. In general, China needs to make suitable policies according to the national conditions to promote cooperation among all parties and organizations and scientific research activities to develop the waste textile and clothing industry. The social benefit of recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing should be maximized, and the waste textile and clothing resources would be utilized profitably in ecology and economy!

Key words: waste textile and clothing, circular industry chain, reuse technology, recycling and reuse system

中图分类号:

TS941

沈娅, 陈涛, 张立杰. 废旧纺织服装回收与再利用研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(07): 232-239.

SHEN Ya, CHEN Tao, ZHANG Lijie. Research progress in recycling and reuse of waste textiles and clothing[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2023, 44(07): 232-239.

图/表 5

图1

图2

图3

图4

图5

参考文献 41

[1]	中华人民共和国中央人民政府. 中华人民共和国国民经济和社会发展第十四个五年规划和2035年远景目标纲要[EB/OL].(2021-03-13)[2022-06-08]. http://politics.people.com.cn/n1/2021/0313/c1001-32050444.html.
	Central People's Government of the People's Republic of China. Outline of the 14th Five-Year Plan for national economic and social development of the People's Republic of China and the vision for 2035 [EB/OL]. (2021-03-13)[2022-06-08]. http://politics.people.com.cn/n1/2021/0313/c1001-32050444.html.
[2]	顾明明, 赵凯, 贺燕丽. 欧洲废旧纺织品回收利用现状及启示[J]. 再生资源与循环经济, 2016, 9(5): 41-44.
	GU Mingming, ZHAO Kai, HE Yanli. The current situation and benificial enlightenments of recycling and utilization of waste textiles in Europe[J]. Recyclable Resources and Circular Economy, 2016, 9(5): 41-44.
[3]	张翰昱, 刘一凯, 潘志娟. 废旧纺织服装循环再利用的现状与分析[J]. 现代丝绸科学与技术, 2020, 35(3): 28-40.
	ZHANG Hanyu, LIU Yikai, PAN Zhijuan. Status and analysis of recycling of waste textile and clothing[J]. Modern Silk Science & Technology, 2020, 35(3): 28-40.
[4]	刘咏梅, 关娟娟, 于晓坤. 上海市废旧服装回收再利用现状研究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2019, 47(6): 6-11.
	LIU Yongmei, GUAN Juanjuan, YU Xiaokun. Research on current situation of recycling unwanted clothes in Shanghai[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2019, 47(6): 6-11.
[5]	于晓坤, 罗洋, 朱达辉. 废旧纺织品服装回收分类综合评价模型分析[J]. 毛纺科技, 2017, 45(7) : 77-81.
	YU Xiaokun, LUO Yang, ZHU Dahui. Theoretical model analysis on classification for recycled unwanted textile and apparel based on comprehensive evaluation method[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2017, 45(7): 77-81.
[6]	杨星, 李轻舟, 吴敏, 等. 欧盟纺织产业链上的绿色循环及废旧纺织品处理关键问题[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(1):10-112.
	YANG Xing, LI Qingzhou, WU Min, et al. Circular economy in European Union textile industry chain and key issues of waste textiles treatment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(1):106-112.
[7]	关娟娟, 宋晓琳, 周晓帆, 等. 废旧服装回收分类属性与再利用方式[J]. 毛纺科技, 2019, 47(5): 91-94.
	GUAN Juanjuan, SONG Xiaolin, ZHOU Xiaofan, et al. Classification and recycling of waste clothing[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2019, 47(5): 91-94.
[8]	郭燕. 废旧服装处置方式碳足迹比较[J]. 棉纺织技术, 2014, 42(1): 78-81.
	GUO Yan. Carbon footprint comparison of waste clothing disposal method[J]. Cotton Textile Technology, 2014, 42(1):78-81.
[9]	王文雅, 赵茹, 陈遊芳, 等. 国内外废旧纺织品回收再利用方法比较[J]. 再生资源与循环经济, 2014, 7(9): 42-45.
	WANG Wenya, ZHAO Ru, CHEN Youfang, et al. Comparison on domestic and foreign waste textiles recycling[J]. Recyclable Resources and Circular Economy, 2014, 7(9): 42-45.
[10]	黄美林, 陈永生, 梁月基. 国内废旧纺织品回收与再利用现状研究[J]. 纺织导报, 2015(1): 26-28.
	HUANG Meilin, CHEN Yongsheng, LIANG Yueji. An investigation on reclamation of waste textiles in China[J]. China Textile Leader, 2015(1): 26-28.
[11]	杜欢政, 陆莎, 孙荐, 等. 生活源废旧纺织品高值化回收再利用体系的构建研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(6): 1-7.
	DU Huanzheng, LU Sha, SUN Jian, et al. Research on constructing high-value recycling systems for municipal textile wastes[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(6): 1-7. doi: 10.1177/004051757204200101
[12]	郭燕. 我国废旧纺织品回收管理制度建设探究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2015, 43(6): 69-73.
	GUO Yan. Research on the textile waste collecting regulations making in China[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2015, 43(6): 69-73.
[13]	陈遊芳. 美国废旧纺织品回收体系及对中国的启示[J]. 毛纺科技, 2015, 43(2): 62-65.
	CHEN Youfang. Research on textile recycling system in USA and its implication to China[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2015, 43(2): 62-65.
[14]	郭燕. 企业主导型废旧纺织品回收模式在我国的推广建议[J]. 毛纺科技, 2014, 42(7): 61-64.
	GUO Yan. Promotion suggestions to corporate-dominated waste textile collecting mode in China[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2014, 42(7): 61-64.
[15]	赵国樑. 我国废旧纺织品综合再利用技术现状及展望[J]. 北京服装学院学报(自然科学版), 2019, 39(3): 94-99.
	ZHAO Guoliang. Present situation and prospect of comprehensive recycling technologies of waste textile in China[J]. Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology(Natural Science Edition), 2019, 39(3):94-99.
[16]	吴俭俭, 孙国君, 谢维斌, 等. 红外光谱与拉曼光谱技术在纤维定性分析中的应用[J]. 丝绸, 2013, 50(7): 27-33.
	WU Jianjian, SUN Guojun, XIE Weibin, et al. Discussion on application of infrared spectrometry and Raman spectrometry in qualitative analysis of fiber[J]. Journal of Silk, 2013, 50(7): 27-33.
[17]	KIP B J, PETERS Eat, HAPPLE J, et al. Method of identifying post consumer or post industrial waste carpetutilizing a hand-held infrared spectrometer: US5952660[P].1999-09-04.
[18]	汪少朋, 吴宝宅, 何洲. 废旧纺织品回收与资源化再生利用技术进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(8): 34-39.
	WANG Shaopeng, WU Baozhai, HE Zhou. Technology progress in recycling and reuse of waste textiles[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(8): 34-39.
[19]	田琳琳, 张天骄. 纺织品消毒方法研究进展[J]. 纺织科学与工程学报, 2018, 35(3): 143-148.
	TIAN Linlin, ZHANG Tianjiao. Research progress of textile disinfection methods[J]. Journal of Textile Science and Engineering, 2018, 35(3): 143-148.
[20]	史晟, 戴晋明, 牛梅, 等. 废旧纺织品的再利用[J]. 纺织学报, 2011, 32(11): 147-152.
	SHI Sheng, DAI Jinming, NIU Mei, et al. Renewability of waste textile[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2011, 32(11): 147-152.
[21]	张丽, 刘梁森, 邱冠雄. 废弃纺织材料回收利用的研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(4): 153-160.
	ZHANG Li, LIU Liangsen, QIU Guanxiong. Research progress of recycled use of waste textiles[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2013, 34(4): 153-160. doi: 10.1177/004051756403400208
[22]	何丽云. 废旧纺织品开松前上油预处理工艺研究[D]. 北京: 北京服装学院, 2014:58-64.
	HE Liyun. Oiling pretreatment process for waste textiles before opening[D]. Beijing: Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, 2014:58-64.
[23]	赵明宇, 张晨曦, 赵国樑, 等. 废旧涤棉混纺织物的循环醇解工艺研究[J]. 合成纤维工业, 2016, 39(1): 15-18.
	ZHAO Mingyu, ZHANG Chenxi, ZAHO Guoliang, et al. Circulation glycolysis process of post-consumer polyester/cotton blend fabrics[J]. China Synthetic Fiber Industry, 2016, 39(1): 15-18.
[24]	钱军, 林世东, 邢喜全, 等. 废旧聚酯纺织品循环利用技术的发展[J]. 纺织导报, 2016(7): 61-64.
	QIAN Jun, LIN Shidong, XING Xiquan, et al. New system for recycling PET-based waste textiles[J]. China Textile Leader, 2016(7): 61-64.
[25]	汤雯, 申成霖. 基于AHP的废旧服装处理技术模糊综合评价[J]. 针织工业, 2018(7): 63-66.
	TANG Wen, SHEN Chenglin. AHP based fuzzy comprehensive evaluation of wasted clothing processing technology[J]. Knitting Industries, 2018(7): 63-66.
[26]	刘贵富. 产业链基本理论研究[D]. 长春: 吉林大学, 2006:22-23.
	LIU Guifu. Research on the basic theories of industry chain[D]. Changchun: Jilin University, 2006: 22-23.
[27]	郝淑丽. 废旧纺织品服装回收产业链及其运行模式分析[J]. 毛纺科技, 2016, 44(6):62-64.
	HAO Shuli. Analysis on the industry chain of waste textile and clothing and its running mode[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2016, 44(6): 62-64.
[28]	吕芳. 循环经济网络组织模式研究[D]. 北京: 北京交通大学, 2008:26-29.
	LÜ Fang. Research on network origination of circular economy[D]. Beijing: Beijing Jiaotong University, 2008:26-29.
[29]	姚卫新. 基于企业主导的废旧服装回收再利用模式研究: 以UNIQLO及H & M为例[J]. 国际纺织导报, 2014(3): 78-82.
	YAO Weixin. Study on enterprise-dominating pattern for reclaiming and reusing worn-out clothing:taking UNIQLO and H & M as examples[J] .Melliand China, 2014(3):78-82.
[30]	郭燕. 基于环境责任的企业主导型旧服装回收模式研究[J]. 纺织导报, 2014(1): 33-36.
	GUO Yan. A study on used clothes recycling mode[J]. China Textile Leader, 2014(1): 33-36.
[31]	祝锡永, 蒋丹丹. 废旧纺织品逆向物流网络选址优化[J]. 经营与管理, 2014(12): 72-75.
	ZHU Xiyong, JIANG Dandan. Optimization of site selection of waste textile reverse logistics network[J]. Management and Administration, 2014(12): 72-75.
[32]	郝淑丽. 我国旧衣回收企业废旧衣物回收再利用体系研究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2017, 45(2): 73-76.
	HAO Shuli. Study on the recycling system of waste and old clothing about old clothes recycling enterprises of China[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2017, 45(2):73-76.
[33]	黄玉立. 废旧服装循环再利用的回收与分类研究[D]. 武汉: 武汉纺织大学, 2011:8-9.
	HUANG Yuli. On recycle and classification of worn out clothes[D]. Wuhan: Wuhan Textile University, 2011:8-9.
[34]	The R Cert marks a new era for consumer transparency in Asia's mainstream fashion market recycled textile clothing standard reaches new consumer markets[J]. China Textile, 2013(8) : 44-45.
[35]	刘雅星, 郝淑丽. 基于产业闭环的废旧纺织品回收再利用价值研究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2016, 44(2): 66-69.
	LIU Yaxing, HAO Shuli. Value study of used textile recycling based on industry closed-loop[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2016, 44(2): 66-69.
[36]	JENS L. Brands made from recycled materials[J]. Design Week, 2013(3): 2.
[37]	陈宇刚, 张海军. 废旧纺织服装的回收及再生设计方法[J]. 毛纺科技, 2019, 47(1): 39-42.
	CHEN Yugang, ZHANG Haijun. Research on recycled design of abandoned textiles and clothing[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2019, 47(1): 39-42.
[38]	YUAN Y. The study on creative reuse of recycled clothing[C]// Proceedings of Textile Bioengineering & Informatics Symposium Society Limited Binary Information Press. Shanghai: Textile Bioengineering and Informatics, 2010: 1597-1602.
[39]	陈遊芳. 以回收箱为主回收废旧纺织品[J]. 毛纺科技, 2016, 44(1) : 73-76.
	CHEN Youfang. Collecting waste textiles mainly through recycling bins[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2016, 44(1) :73-76.
[40]	郭燕. 我国废旧纺织品回收及再利用现状和建议[J]. 棉纺织技术, 2013, 41(4): 59-61.
	GUO Yan. Status and suggestion of domestic waste textiles recycle[J]. Cotton Textile Technology, 2013, 41(4): 59-61.
[41]	江迪. 建立和完善废旧纺织品回收体系[N]. 中国政协报, 2014-03-12( 17).
	JIANG Di. Establish and perfect waste textile recycling system[N]. Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference, 2014-03-12( 17).

Metrics

Viewed

Full text

Abstract

Cited

Shared

Discussed