纺织学报 ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (11): 240-249.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220704702

• 综合述评 • 上一篇    下一篇

感性工学在纺织服装领域的研究进展

张俊1,2,3(), 胡嵩1, 童梦霞1, 肖文陵4   

  1. 1.武汉纺织大学 服装学院, 湖北 武汉 430073
    2.武汉纺织服装数字化工程技术研究中心, 湖北 武汉 430073
    3.湖北省服装信息化工程技术研究中心, 湖北 武汉 430200
    4.清华大学 美术学院, 北京 100084
  • 收稿日期:2022-07-14 修回日期:2023-01-07 出版日期:2023-11-15 发布日期:2023-12-25
  • 作者简介:张俊(1985—),男,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为服装感性工学和服装舒适性。E-mail: zhangjun@wtu.edu.cn
  • 基金资助:
    湖北省自然科学基金项目(2019CFB374);湖北省服装信息化工程技术研究中心开放基金项目(184084002)

Research progress in Kansei engineering for textile and clothing applications

ZHANG Jun1,2,3(), HU Song1, TONG Mengxia1, XIAO Wenling4   

  1. 1. School of Fashion, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
    2. Wuhan Textile and Garment Digital Engineering Technology Research Center, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
    3. Engineering Research Center of Hubei Province for Clothing Information, Wuhan, Hubei 430200, China
    4. Academy of Arts & Design, Tsinghua University, Beijing 100084, China
  • Received:2022-07-14 Revised:2023-01-07 Published:2023-11-15 Online:2023-12-25

摘要:

为促进感性工学在纺织服装领域的应用与发展,回顾了感性工学的发展历程和最新的研究进展;重点分析了感性工学在服装与织物设计、消费心理分析、产品评价以及服装智能系统构建中的应用现状,并总结了感性工学在纺织服装领域研究的方法与工具;基于现有的技术和应用现状,指出当前感性工学研究中存在感知方式局限于视觉和触觉、样本群体单一且样本量较小、客观方法和工程技术手段应用不足等问题。分析认为,未来的研究应从建立消费者感性信息数据库、构建和完善服装感性设计与推荐系统、融合人工智能与感性工学技术等方面进一步推动感性工学在纺织服装领域的应用,提升纺织服装产品感性附加值。

关键词: 感性工学, 人因工程, 感性信息, 纺织, 服装

Abstract:

Significance The clothing market has undergone a paradigm transform from mass production to customization and personalization, while consumers are increasingly emphasizing the aesthetic expectations and emotional identity associated with clothing products. Aligning product design and development with the psychological needs of consumers to enhance the emotional value of the product has become a pivotal goal for enterprises. However, human subjective feelings are usually uncertain and ambiguous, posing challenges in quantifying consumers' perceptual preferences and evaluations. Kansei engineering is a design methodology utilizing engineering techniques to quantify human emotions and perceptions, enabling the acquisition of perceptual measurements and establishing the relationship between perceptual and physical attributes. In order to clarify the development and application of Kansei engineering and to master its frontier and development trends in textile and clothing, this paper comprehensively reviews the research progress in Kansei engineering for textile and clothing applications.

Progress Kansei engineering serves as a widely adopted method for quantifying emotions, finding extensive utility in textiles and clothing. Its applications primarily include clothing and fabric design, consumer psychology analysis, clothing product evaluation, and the development of intelligent systems. Initially, the implementation of Kansei engineering relied mainly on the semantic differential method to capture and quantify subjective feelings, and then the correlation between consumers', Kansei information and the objective physical quantities will be established through regression analysis or other methods. However, Kansei information obtained by the semantic differential method is susceptible to various influencing factors, thereby reducing its accuracy. Further, there has been a turn towards combining bioelectrical signals such as electrocardiogram, electroencephalo-gram, and electromyogram, heart rate, eye tracking and other modalities to capture changes in subjective feelings. Additionally, fuzzy mathematical methods have shown promise in addressing the uncertainty and ambiguity of perceptual evaluations. In recent years, remarkable advancements in deep learning techniques have also been witnessed, significantly enhancing the performance of classification and regression tasks. This approach not only facilitates the prediction and interpretation of consumers', aesthetic perceptions but also enables the correlation of user requirements with design factors, thereby assisting designers in achieving innovative designs. Machine learning-based intelligent systems for clothing are personalized, dynamic and have high predictive accuracy, which has become a research hotspot in textile and clothing. Its realization will significantly enhance the emotional attributes of clothing products and the convenience of the clothing market.

Conclusion and Prospect Kansei engineering can effectively facilitate clothing product evaluation and consumer psychology analysis and optimize the clothing product design. Although its application in textiles and clothing is progressively maturing, certain challenges persist. 1) Limited focus on other perceptual modalities. Most research predominantly relies on the semantic differential method to gather Kansei information from vision and tactile. However, integrating diverse Kansei information from multiple modalities (such as olfaction, physical behavior, and physiological perception) can enrich the understanding of user feelings. 2) Homogeneity and small sample size of selected populations. Diversified participants can be representative of a wider consumer group. 3) Overreliance on subjective evaluation. Current perceptual engineering research relies mainly on subjective evaluations, neglecting the potential benefits of incorporating objective methods and engineering technology tools. The combination of subjective and objective data can be better achieved through methods such as physiological measurement, artificial intelligence, and fuzzy mathematics, to deeply explore users'emotional needs and the inherent value of products.

In the future, the multimodal Kansei engineering is expected to be a potential effective means for textile and clothing Kansei study. Complex consumer populations can be categorized by Kansei engineering techniques. Then, emotions, perspectives, behavior, and environmental factors of consumers could be combined to construct a Kansei information database for the consumer group. Additionally, it is crucial to develop Kansei design and recommendation systems for textile and clothing products. The implementation of a Kansei-based virtual fitting system can provide consumers with immersive user collaborative design and personalization recommendation services. Finally, incorporating more advanced artificial intelligence techniques in Kansei engineering research will significantly improve the predictive capabilities of Kansei models on the perceptual preferences of consumers and increase the emotional added value of textile and clothing products.

Key words: Kansei engineering, human factor, Kansei information, textile, clothing

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.2

图1

服装感性信息构成"

图2

线下服装消费感性信息"

图3

服装感性系统构成"

图4

感性工学研究流程图"

[1] 罗丽弦, 洪玲. 感性工学设计[M]. 北京: 清华大学出版社, 2015: 2-6.
LUO Lixian, HONG Ling. Kansei engineering design[M]. Beijing: Tsinghua University Pesss, 2015: 2-6.
[2] NAGAMACHI M. Kansei engineering: a new ergonomic consumer-oriented technology for product develop-ment[J]. International Journal of Industrial Ergonomics, 1995, 15(1): 3-11.
doi: 10.1016/0169-8141(94)00052-5
[3] 赵秋芳, 王震亚, 范波涛. 感性工学及其在日本的研究现状[J]. 艺术与设计(理论), 2007(7): 32-34.
ZHAO Qiufang, WANG Zhenya, FAN Botao. An introduction of Kansei engineering and its research status in Japan[J]. Art and Design, 2007(7): 32-34.
[4] TANOUE C, ISHIZAKA K, NAGAMACHI M. Kansei engineering: a study on perception of vehicle interior image[J]. International Journal of Industrial Ergonomics, 1997, 19(2): 115-128.
doi: 10.1016/S0169-8141(96)00008-X
[5] JINDO T, HIRASAGO K, NAGAMACHI M. Development of a design support system for office chairs using 3-D graphics[J]. International Journal of Industrial Ergonomics, 1995, 15(1): 49-62.
doi: 10.1016/0169-8141(94)00056-9
[6] XU X, HSIAO H, WANG W. FuzEmotion as a backward Kansei engineering tool[J]. International Journal of Automation and Computing, 2012, 9(1): 16-23.
doi: 10.1007/s11633-012-0611-y
[7] KAWABATRA S. The standardization and analysis of hand evaluation[J]. The Textile Machinery Society, 1980. DOI:10.1533/9781845690984.
[8] ZHOU X, LIANG H, DONG Z. A personalized recommendation model for online apparel shopping based on Kansei engineering[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2017, 29(1): 2-13.
doi: 10.1108/IJCST-12-2015-0137
[9] NOORDIN S, ASHAARI N, WOOK T. A proposed model for virtual fitting room based on usability and profound emotional elements[J]. International Journal on Advanced Science, Engineering and Information Technology, 2018, 8(6): 2332-2340.
doi: 10.18517/ijaseit.8.6.6440
[10] NOOR N, LOKMAN A, NAGAMACHI M. Applying Kansei engineering to determine emotional signature of online clothing websites[C]// ICEIS 2008: Proceedings of the 10th International Conference on Enterprise Information Systems. Barcelona: Springer, 2008: 142-147.
[11] URAI T, OKUNAKA D, TOKUMARU M. Clothing image retrieval based on a similarity evaluation method for Kansei retrieval system[J]. Proceedings of the Fuzzy System Symposium, 2012, 28: 876-881.
[12] 刘国联, 江影. 基于穿着者感性认知的服装款式感性研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2007, 28(11): 101-105.
LIU Guolian, JIANG Ying. Study on Kansei of fashion style based on human sensibility[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2007, 28(11): 101-105.
[13] CHEN D, CHENG P. The style design of professional female vest based on Kansei engineering[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2019, 32(1): 5-11.
doi: 10.1108/IJCST-07-2018-0090
[14] YU M, CHEN C, WU S, et al. Explore the critical Kansei quality of fashion design[C]// Processding of 2019 International Conference on Computational Modeling,Simulation and Optimization (CMSO 2019). Beijing: DEStech Publications, 2019:195-199.
[15] ZHAO Y, ZHOU J, ZHU S, et al. Bra style design based on Kansei engineering and analytic hierarchy process[J]. Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities, 2020, 33(3): 45-50.
[16] ZHANG J, MU Y. Clothing design methods based on Kansei engineering: example of suit design[C]// Proceedings of the AHFE 2021 Virtual Conferences on Design for Inclusion, Affective and Pleasurable Design. Belin: Springer, 2021: 1111-1117.
[17] 张林情, 顾朝晖. 不同领型男式衬衫的感性评价[J]. 西安工程大学学报, 2018, 32(4): 377-383.
ZHANG Linqing, GU Zhaohui. Sensory evaluation on men's shirts with different collar shapes[J]. Journal of Xi'an Polytechnic University, 2018, 32(4): 377-383.
[18] LI X, ZHU C, LIU K, et al. Collar style design of women's suit based on Kansei engineering[J]. Industria Textila, 2022, 73(5): 530-536.
doi: 10.35530/IT
[19] 陈丽丽, 王立川, 陈雁. 色彩感觉特性的评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(9): 127-130.
CHEN Lili, WANG Lichuan, CHEN Yan. Evaluation of color perception characteristics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017, 38(9): 127-130.
[20] WAKAKO L, KINARI T. Color effects on visually perceived surface roughness of leg with pantyhose[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2019, 32(1): 12-22.
doi: 10.1108/IJCST-12-2017-0196
[21] HE S, NAKAJIMA Y, FUCHIDA T. The influence of spectral distribution of illumination on the color and texture appearance of glossy fabric[J]. Transactions of Japan Society of Kansei Engineering, 2019, 18(5): 407-416.
doi: 10.5057/jjske.TJSKE-D-19-00005
[22] 吕晓娟, 徐军. 基于感性工学的女装色彩搭配评价[J]. 毛纺科技, 2021, 49(2):94-98.
LÜ Xiaojuan, XU Jun. Color matching evaluation of women's garments based on Kansei engineering[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2021, 49(2): 94-98.
[23] 付淑君, 吕健, 谢庆生, 等. 基于色彩网络的黔东南苗绣服饰色彩意象研究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2022, 50(10):84-93.
FU Shujun, LÜ Jian, XIE Qingsheng, et al. Study on color image of Miao embroidery dress in southeast Guizhou based on color network[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2022, 50(10): 84-93.
[24] KAWAMURA A, ZHU C, PEIFFER J, et al. Relationship between the physical properties and hand of jean fabric[J]. Autex Research Journal, 2016, 16(3): 138-145.
doi: 10.1515/aut-2015-0043
[25] 周小溪, 梁惠娥, 陈潇潇, 等. 春夏季衬衫用色织面料材质的感性评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2016, 37(8): 59-64.
ZHOU Xiaoxi, LIANG Hui'e, CHEN Xiaoxiao, et al. Sensibility assessment of spring and summer shirt yarn-dyed fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2016, 37(8): 59-64.
[26] YIN W, XU B. Perceptual evaluations of plant-dyed and industrial-dyed cotton fabrics based on Kansei engineering[J]. AATCC Journal of Research, 2022, 9(1): 23-34.
doi: 10.1177/23305517211060793
[27] ICHIMURA Y, AOYAMA H. Digital design method of dyeing patterns based on Kansei[C]// Proceedings of the International Design Engineering Technical Conferences and Computers and Information in Engineering Conference. Cleveland: The American Society of Mechanical Engineers, 2017:1-7.
[28] CHEN D, CHENG P. Development of design system for product pattern design based on Kansei engineering and BP neural network[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2021, 34(3): 335-346.
doi: 10.1108/IJCST-04-2021-0044
[29] SHAARI N. Haptic assessment in fabrics with Kansei evaluation[C]// 2010 International Conference on User Science and Engineering (i-USEr). Shah Alam: IEEE, 2010: 44-48.
[30] ZHANG J, TAO H, JIANG X. Cognitive behavior difference based on sensory analysis in tactile evaluation of fabrics[C]// Proceedings of the AHFE 2019 International Conference on Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering. Washington: Springer International Publishing, 2020: 430-437.
[31] HUSSAIN A, ZHONG Y, NAVEED T, et al. A new approach to evaluate fabric hand based on three-dimensional drape model[J]. Autex Research Journal, 2020, 20(2): 155-167.
doi: 10.2478/aut-2019-0011
[32] MATSUOKA E, YAMAMOTO H. A study on the behavior of fashion emotional value by the classification of lifestyle[J]. Transactions of Japan Society of Kansei Engineering, 2020, 19(3): 281-289.
doi: 10.5057/jjske.TJSKE-D-19-00052
[33] KOSAKA Y, SHIIZUKA H. A method for creating buying behavior of customer by Kansei information design[J]. Journal of Modelling in Management, 2009, 4(1): 19-27.
doi: 10.1108/17465660910943739
[34] ZHOU X, XU Y. Conjoint analysis of consumer preferences for dress design[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2019, 32(1): 73-84.
doi: 10.1108/IJCST-02-2019-0024
[35] KIM K, FUJII C, TAKATERA M. Comparing Japanese and British impressions of dress forms[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2019, 31(4): 462-474.
doi: 10.1108/IJCST-08-2018-0107
[36] KANO N. Attractive quality and must-be quality[J]. Journal of the Japanese Society for Quality Control, 1984, 31(4): 147-56.
[37] WANG Weizhen, YUKARI N, FANG Y. Human-centred design blending smart technology with emotional responses: case study on interactive clothing for couples[C]// Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Engineering Design (ICED 17): Human Behaviour in Design. Vancouver: Design Society, 2017: 51-58.
[38] ZAKHARKEVICH O, KULESHOVA S, VOVK J, et al. Evaluation of the emotional component of transformable clothing with semantic differential[J]. Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education, 2018, 6(3):245-251.
doi: 10.15547/issn13148796
[39] 高维, 肖军. 基于女大学生的服装设计感性评价个体差异[J]. 纺织学报, 2014, 35(5): 137-141.
GAO Wei, XIAO Jun. Individual differences in perceptual evaluation for fashion design:taking female students as research subjects[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2014, 35(5): 137-141.
[40] MARSAC E, KIM K, TAKATERA M. Japanese-French tastes in simulated women's sportswear T-shirts[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2018, 30(5): 641-656.
doi: 10.1108/IJCST-09-2017-0140
[41] LOKMAN A, NURAIHAN E, IBRAHIM M. The Kansei semantic space in children's clothing[C]// 2010 International Conference on Information Retrieval & Knowledge Management (CAMP). Shah Alam: IEEE, 2010: 85-90.
[42] 李砚祖. 设计新理念:感性工学[J]. 新美术, 2003(4): 20-25.
LI Yanzu. New design concept : Kansei enginee-ring[J]. New Arts, 2003(4): 20-25.
[43] OTA S, TAKENOUCHI H, TOKUMARU M. Kansei clothing retrieval system using features extracted by autoencoder[C]// 2017 IEEE Symposium Series on Computational Intelligence (SSCI). Honolulu: IEEE, 2017: 1-7.
[44] URAI T, TOKUMARU M. User Kansei clothing image retrieval system[J]. Journal of Advanced Computational Intelligence & Intelligent Informatics, 2014, 18(6): 1044-1052.
[45] 甘美辰, 李敏. 女装搭配推荐系统的设计与实现[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(10): 122-131.
GAN Meichen, LI Min. Design and realization of a collocation recommendation system for women's clothing[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(10): 122-131.
[46] TAKATERA M, YOSHIDA R, PEIFFER J, et al. Fabric retrieval system for apparel e-commerce considering Kansei information[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2019, 32(1): 148-159.
doi: 10.1108/IJCST-03-2018-0035
[47] DONG M, ZENG X, KOEHL L, et al. An interactive knowledge-based recommender system for fashion product design in the big data environment[J]. Information Sciences, 2020, 540: 469-488.
doi: 10.1016/j.ins.2020.05.094
[48] NAGASHIMA T. Introduction to Kansei engine-ering[M]. New York: Springer, 2012:173-176.
[49] 张苏道, 薛文良, 魏孟媛, 等. 眼动仪在服装面料色彩视觉评价中的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(3): 139-145.
ZHANG Sudao, XUE Wenliang, WEI Mengyuan, et al. Application of eye tracker in visual evaluation of apparel fabric colors[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(3): 139-145.
[50] WANG J. EEG-based quantitative analysis of aesthetic emotion in clothing design[J]. Translational Neuroscience, 2019, 10(1): 44-49.
doi: 10.1515/tnsci-2019-0008 pmid: 31098311
[51] UEMAE M, UEMAE T, KAMIJO M. Physique differences and psychophysiological response under clothing pressure using waist belt[J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2019, 32(1): 63-72.
doi: 10.1108/IJCST-06-2018-0082
[52] 吕佳, 陈东生. 情绪的事件相关电位在服装设计中的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2012, 33(2): 151-156.
LÜ Jia, CHEN Dongsheng. Application of emotional event-related potentials in fashion design[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2012, 33(2): 151-156.
[53] CHOU J R. Applying fuzzy linguistic preferences to Kansei evaluation[C]// Proceedings of the 5th Kanesi Engineering and Emotion Research (KEER2014). Linköping: Linköping University Electronic Press, 2014: 11-13.
[54] KARASAWA Y, UEMAE M, YOSHIDA H, et al. Prediction of clothing comfort sensation of an undershirt using artificial neural networks with psychophysiological responses as input data[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2022, 92(3/4): 330-345.
doi: 10.1177/00405175211034242
[55] ZHU D, LAI X, RAU P. Recognition and analysis of kawaii style for fashion clothing through deep learning[J]. Human-Intelligent Systems Integration, 2022, 4(1): 11-22.
doi: 10.1007/s42454-022-00042-w
[56] 郑畑子, 王建萍. 服装印花图案设计的感性研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(8):101-107.
ZHENG Tianzi, WANG Jianping. Perceptual research on printing pattern design for clothing[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(8): 101-107.
doi: 10.1177/004051757104100203
[57] WANG Z, WANG J, ZENG X, et al. Construction of garment pattern design knowledge base using sensory analysis, ontology and support vector regression modeling[J]. International Journal of Computational Intelligence Systems, 2021, 14(1): 1687-1699.
doi: 10.2991/ijcis.d.210608.002
[58] OTA S, TAKENOUCHI H, TOKUMARU M. Kansei retrieval of clothing using features extracted by deep neural network[J]. Transactions of Japan Society of Kansei Engineering, 2017, 16(3): 277-283.
doi: 10.5057/jjske.TJSKE-D-17-00003
[59] VIVEK K, SUBBARAO K, ROUTRAY W, et al. Application of fuzzy logic in sensory evaluation of food products: a comprehensive study[J]. Food and Bioprocess Technology, 2020, 13(1): 1-29.
doi: 10.1007/s11947-019-02337-4
[1] 范硕, 杨鹏, 曾锦豪, 宋潇迪, 龚昱丹, 肖遥. 抗熔滴型多元有机硅阻燃剂整理锦纶6织物的制备及其性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(01): 152-160.
[2] 吴冬雪, 刘让同, 于媛媛, 李淑静, 韩赟. 下肢运动状态特征对裤装臀围的影响分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(01): 168-175.
[3] 韩燕娜, 江翼成, 郑霞, 杨子田. 情绪在小生褶子设计要素和语义评价间的中介作用[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(01): 185-193.
[4] 陆伟健, 屠佳佳, 王俊茹, 韩思捷, 史伟民. 基于改进残差网络的空纱筒识别模型[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(01): 194-202.
[5] 杨智超, 刘淑强, 吴改红, 贾潞, 张曼, 李甫, 李慧敏. 可吸收手术缝合线研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(01): 230-239.
[6] 董凯, 吕天梅, 盛非凡, 彭晓. 面向个性化健康医疗的智能纺织品研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(01): 240-249.
[7] 杨柳, 李羽佳, 俞琰, 马磊, 张瑞云. 基于纽介堡方程的色纺织物颜色预测[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(01): 83-89.
[8] 陈顺, 钱坤, 梁付巍, 郭文文. 丁香酚基复合涂层阻燃疏水棉织物的制备及其性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(12): 115-122.
[9] 周莉, 樊培宏, 金玉婷, 张龙琳, 李新荣. 服装逆向造型的数字化设计方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(12): 138-144.
[10] 李珣, 李哲文, 张婷文, 景军锋, 李鹏飞. 面向纺织生产环境的移动机器人定位方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(12): 170-180.
[11] 管图祥, 吴健, 暴宁钟. 微流控纺丝制备石墨烯纤维基柔性超级电容器的研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(12): 205-215.
[12] 张永芳, 费鹏飞, 阎智锋, 王淑花, 郭红. 废弃纤维素纺织品水热降解技术的研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(12): 216-224.
[13] 刘雨婷, 宋泽涛, 赵胜男, 王星岚, 常素芹. 个体冷却服的研究现状与发展趋势[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(12): 233-241.
[14] 苗雪, 王永进, 王方明. 充气保暖复合面料厚度与热阻的相关性分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(11): 176-182.
[15] 杨钰蝶, 李承璋, 金剑, 郑晶晶. 基于上肢活动性的灭火防护服背带的设计与评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(11): 183-189.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited

  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!