纺织学报 ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (08): 118-125.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220802401

• 染整与化学品 • 上一篇    下一篇

仿松球叶片结构面料的制备及其调湿性能

胡亦雯1, 唐虹1(), 唐天一2, 魏书涛3   

  1. 1.南通大学 纺织服装学院, 江苏 南通 226019
    2.对外经济贸易大学剑桥国际学校, 北京 100029
    3.三六一度(中国)有限公司, 江苏 苏州 215000
  • 收稿日期:2022-08-08 修回日期:2023-03-14 出版日期:2023-08-15 发布日期:2023-09-21
  • 通讯作者: 唐虹(1968—),女,教授,博士。主要研究方向为功能服装和智能服装的开发与评价。E-mail:1006529354@qq.com
  • 作者简介:胡亦雯(1998—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为功能性面料及服装的研制。

Study on structure and humidity control performance of pine cone like fabrics

HU Yiwen1, TANG Hong1(), TANG Tianyi2, WEI Shutao3   

  1. 1. Department of Textile and Garment, Nantong University, Nantong, Jiangsu 226019, China
    2. University of International Business and Economics Cambridge International School, Beijing 100029, China
    3. 361°(China) Limited, Suzhou, Jiangsu 215000, China
  • Received:2022-08-08 Revised:2023-03-14 Published:2023-08-15 Online:2023-09-21

摘要:

为实现面料随人体湿度变化而自动调节散湿量的功能,研究并模拟松球叶片随湿度自动张开闭合的微观结构,采用在涤纶/氨纶针织物表面涂层聚氨酯,形成吸湿伸长变化差异大的主动层与从动层结构,从而制备仿松球功能面料。研究了仿松球面料叶片纵横比、叶片方向、涂层附着率等结构参数与叶片张开时间、张开角度、张开速度和有效张开率等湿度调节相关性能之间的关系。研究发现:当仿松球叶片纵横比为65%、叶片方向为从动层面料经向、涂层附着率为66.7%时,仿松球面料的调湿性能最优,其仿松球叶片面料可根据穿着者衣下湿度的变化而自动张开闭合,快速调节湿度从而提高穿着者的舒适性。

关键词: 仿松球面料, 功能面料, 自动调湿, 面料结构, 聚氨酯涂层, 调湿性能

Abstract:

Objective In order for fabrics to automatically adjust the moisture loss according to the change of human body humidity, the microstructure of pine cone leaves, which open and close following humidity change, was studied and simulated. Polyurethane coating was used on polyester-ammonia knitted fabric to form the active layer and the driven layer with big difference in moisture absorption and elongation, so that the pine cone-like functional fabric responding to moisture was developed. Its pine cone-like leaves can automatically open and close according to the change of the wearer's body humidity, and the humidity can be quickly adjusted to improve the comfort of the wearer.

Method According to the response mechanism of pine-ball-like fabric to humidity, a self-made testing device for fabric moisture conductivity was designed, including water vapor generation, fabric moisture exchange and moisture conductivity detection. The relationship between the leaf aspect ratio (the ratio of longitudinal dimension to transverse dimension of leaf opening), leaf direction (the angle between leaf opening direction and cloth warp direction of driven layer), coating attach rate (the ratio of coating weight to cloth weight of driven layer) and moisture conductivity of leaf opening time, opening angle, opening speed and effective opening rate of pine-like fabric was studied.

Results It was found that as the leaf aspect ratio decreased (Fig.7-9), the opening time of the leaves gradually increased, and other moisture conductivity indicators of the leaves, namely, full opening angle, opening speed and effective opening rate, increased at first and then decreased. The change of leaf aspect ratio had the greatest influence on the effective opening rate of pine cone-like leaves, fluctuating in the range of 73%-92%. When the leaf aspect ratio was 65%, all the properties were the best. With the increase of the blade direction (Fig.10-12), the moisture conductivity indicators of the pine-ball-like fabric, including opening time, opening angle, opening speed and effective opening rate, exhibited a sudden decrease. When the blade direction was 90° the pine-ball-like fabric had no obvious opening phenomenon when wet, and when the blade direction is 0° the pine-ball-like fabric was shown to achieve the best performance. With the increase of coating attach rate of pine-cone-like fabric (Fig.13-15), all properties were increased at first and then decreased except for the opening time of the leaves. The increase of coating amount had the greatest influence on the effective opening ratio of pine-cone-like fabric, which fluctuated in the range of 77%-93%. When the coating attach rate was 66.7%, the moisture conductivity of pine-cone-like fabric reached the best. When the aspect ratio of pine cone-like leaves was 65%, the direction of the leaves was the warp direction of the driven layer and the attach rate of the coating was 66.7%, the moisture conductivity of pine cone-like fabric was the best, with its opening time of 47s, opening angle of 85.59°, average opening speed of 1.82(°)/s and effective opening rate of 93%.

Conclusion According to the research on the factors affecting the moisture conductivity of pine-cone-like fabric, the change of pine-cone-like leaf direction has the greatest influence on the opening performance of the leaves. With the increase of the angle between the leaf direction and the warp direction of cloth, all the properties of pine-cone-like leaves drop rapidly until they close completely. The change of aspect ratio and coated attach rate of pine cone-like leaves had a great influence on the effective opening rate of leaves, followed by a certain influence on opening speed, but a little influence on opening time and opening angle.

Key words: pine ball-like fabric, functional fabric, automatic humidity control, polyurethane coating, double-layer fabric, humidity control performance

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.1

图1

仿松球织物结构及吸湿过程"

图2

不同纵横比的叶片结构示意图"

图3

不同开口方向的叶片结构示意图"

图4

仿松球叶片面料调湿性能测试平台"

图5

叶片张开角度"

图6

叶片有效张开率"

图7

叶片纵横比与张开角度的关系"

图8

叶片纵横比与平均张开速度及瞬时速度的关系"

图9

叶片纵横比与有效张开率的关系"

图10

叶片方向与张开角度的关系"

图11

叶片方向与平均张开速度及瞬时速度的关系"

图12

叶片方向与有效张开率的关系"

图13

涂层附着率与张开角度的关系"

图14

涂层附着率与平均张开速度及瞬时张开速度的关系"

图15

涂层附着率与有效张开率的关系"

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