纺织学报 ›› 2024, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (01): 90-98.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221006301

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯/聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯纬编运动T恤面料的热湿舒适性

姚晨曦, 万爱兰()   

  1. 江南大学 针织技术教育部工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2022-10-31 修回日期:2023-08-04 出版日期:2024-01-15 发布日期:2024-03-14
  • 通讯作者: 万爱兰(1976—),女,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为纺织材料与智能纺织品。E-mail:ailan.wan@jiangnan.edu.cn。
  • 作者简介:姚晨曦(2000—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织产品开发及舒适性研究。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(61902150);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP122003)

Thermal and moisture comfort of polybutylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate weft-knitted sports T-shirt fabrics

YAO Chenxi, WAN Ailan()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Jiangsu, Wuxi 214122, China
  • Received:2022-10-31 Revised:2023-08-04 Published:2024-01-15 Online:2024-03-14

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摘要：

为研究不同组织结构参数的纬编单面面料对运动休闲T恤热湿舒适性的影响,开发了13款聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯/聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PBT/PET)纬编单面针织物。通过对PBT/PET纬编单面针织物的透气率、透湿量、热阻、水分蒸发速率和液态水分管理能力这5个指标进行测试,探究织物组织结构和单丝线密度对织物厚度、面密度、孔隙率及热湿舒适性能的影响。在表征5个单项指标的基础上,运用灰色聚类分析对这13款纬编单面运动T恤面料的热湿舒适性进行综合评价。结果表明:织物的组织结构、厚度、单丝线密度、孔隙率以及面密度与织物的热湿舒适性能显著相关;组织结构为平纹、单面提花(1)和单珠地网眼的织物的热湿舒适性较好,因此更适合应用于运动休闲领域。

关键词: 纬编单面T恤面料, 热湿舒适性, 透气性, 透湿率, 聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯/聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯纤维

Abstract:

Objective Leisure, sports, and fitness have become a life fashion. Increasing number of people participate in sports and fitness, and as a result people's requirements for sports and leisure clothing fabrics are gradually changing. Lightweight, permeable, soft, and comfortable sports fabrics with features such as diverse styles, environmental friendliness, and health benefit are favored by consumers. As people pay more attention to human health and comfort, textiles with thermal and moisture comfort performance have gained attention in the global market, and attracted research attention. The wearing comfort is largely affected by the thermal and moisture comfort performance of the fabric. Air permeability, moisture permeability, thermal resistance, water evaporation rate, and liquid moisture management ability are considered to be the key factors affecting the wearer's thermal and moisture comfort performance.

Method In order to study the thermal and moisture comfort performance of sports and leisure T-shirt materials, 13 kinds of polybutylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate(PBT/PET) weft knitted sports T-shirt fabrics with different structure parameters were developed. By using a fabricair permeability tester, fabric moisture permeability tester, thermal resistance, moisture resistance tester, and liquid moisture management tester, five indexes of the polybutylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate 13 kinds of PBT/PET weft knitted sports T-shirt fabrics, which are air permeability, moisture permeability, thermal resistance, moisture evaporation rate, and liquid moisture management ability, were tested. The influences of fabric structure and monofilament size on fabric thickness, surface density, porosity, and thermal and moisture comfort performance were investigated. The thermal and moisture comfort performance of 13 kinds of weft knitted single-side knitted fabrics was evaluated through gray cluster analysis based on five individual indexes.

Results Using SPSS statistical software to conduct a one-way analysis of variance and correlation score, it was found that fabric structure and raw material monofilament size affected fabric porosity, and the correlation coefficients were 0.831 and 0.757 (p<0.05), respectively. Fabric thickness and surface density were also important factors affecting the porosity. The correlation coefficients were -0.768 and -0.710 (p<0.05). The microstructure and filament size were also found to affect the fabric's porosity, thickness, and surface density, and then affect the fabric's thermal and wet comfort properties such as air permeability, moisture permeability, thermal resistance, water evaporation rate, and liquid water management ability. The fabric structure was significantly correlated with the fabric's air permeability, moisture permeability, and thermal resistance, and the correlation coefficients were 0.783, 0.631, and 0.684, respectively. The thickness of fabrics was significantly correlated with the moisture permeability and thermal resistance of the fabrics, and the correlation coefficients were 0.771 and 0.761, respectively. The air permeability, water evaporation rate, and overall water management ability of fabrics were significantly correlated with the monofilament size, and the correlation coefficients were 0.544, -0.628, and 0.692, respectively. The porosity of fabrics was significantly correlated with the air permeability, thermal resistance, and overall water management ability of the fabrics, and the correlation coefficients were 0.654, 0.748, and 0.735, respectively. The surface density of fabrics was significantly correlated with the air permeability and overall water management ability of the fabrics, and the correlation coefficients were -0.688 and 0.709, respectively.

Conclusion The gray cluster analysis was adopeed to comprehensively evaluate the thermal and moisture comfort performance of the 13 weft knitted sports T-shirt fabrics, and it was concluded that the single-sided weft knitted sports T-shirt fabrics with single jersay, jacquard (1) and single-bead mesh had better thermal and moisture comfort performance, which was more suitable for the sports and leisure field.

Key words: weft-knitted single sports T-shirt fabric, thermal and moisture comfort, air permeability, moisture permeability, polybutylene terephthalate/polyethylene terephthalate fiber

中图分类号: 

  • TS186.2

图1

织物的编织图"

表1

织物基本规格参数"

织物
编号		 织物组织 原料 单丝线密度/
tex		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 厚度/mm 孔隙率/% 线圈密度/(线圈·(5 cm)-1)
纵密 横密
1# 平纹 8.89 tex(60 f) 0.15 112 0.43 80.7 100 170
2# 单珠地 8.89 tex(60 f) 0.15 123 0.47 80.6 90 190
3# 双珠地 8.89 tex(60 f) 0.15 109 0.62 87.0 100 150
4# 平纹 8.89 tex(96 f) 0.09 139 0.45 77.1 85 120
5# 平纹 8.89 tex(96 f) 0.09 112 0.46 82.0 85 115
6# 单面提花(1) 8.89 tex(96 f) 0.09 122 0.55 83.6 80 115
7# 单面提花(1) 8.89 tex(96 f) 0.09 121 0.52 82.8 85 115
8# 单面提花(2) 8.89 tex(96 f) 0.09 126 0.58 83.9 85 115
9# 单面提花(3) 8.89 tex(96 f) 0.09 141 0.49 78.7 100 110
10# 平纹+珠地(1) 8.89 tex(168 f) 0.05 148 0.41 73.3 130 180
11# 平纹+珠地(2) 8.89 tex(168 f) 0.05 142 0.43 75.5 125 200
12# 平纹+珠地(3) 8.89 tex(168 f) 0.05 146 0.42 74.3 130 180
13# 珠地+网眼 8.89 tex(168 f) 0.05 167 0.60 79.4 125 210

图2

织物的透气率"

图3

织物的透湿率"

图4

织物的热阻值"

图5

织物的水分蒸发速率"

表2

液态水分管理能力测试结果"

织物编号 浸水面(T)与
渗透面(B)		 浸湿时间/
s		 吸水速率/
(%·s-1)		 最大浸湿半径/
mm		 液态水扩散速度/
(mm·s-1)		 单向传递指数/
%		 OMMC值
1# T 3.86 96.80 18.0 4.02 152.82 0.66
B 0.33 77.70 21.5 15.93
2# T 13.30 30.63 16.5 6.50 889.28 0.94
B 0.29 128.87 17.0 16.54
3# T 2.71 85.75 21.5 5.34 584.29 0.97
B 0.29 499.17 21.5 17.22
4# T 2.18 51.55 25.0 5.63 765.10 0.90
B 0.31 62.43 25.5 16.55
5# T 2.14 54.65 25.0 7.17 601.78 0.89
B 0.30 58.80 25.0 16.98
6# T 2.67 52.36 22.0 4.94 616.00 0.88
B 0.28 57.87 21.0 16.92
7# T 2.32 55.97 23.5 5.27 596.61 0.88
B 0.31 58.27 23.0 16.32
8# T 2.95 50.39 20.5 4.21 722.86 0.89
B 0.31 59.76 20.5 15.39
9# T 2.75 52.51 21.5 4.78 636.59 0.88
B 0.32 56.05 21.0 15.36
10# T 2.40 83.17 27.5 5.72 -11.43 0.48
B 0.31 78.44 26.0 17.79
11# T 2.47 97.40 28.5 5.70 -71.15 0.45
B 0.31 78.83 25.5 17.57
12# T 2.68 96.14 27.0 5.37 -94.84 0.45
B 0.29 80.72 25.5 18.10
13# T 2.83 95.13 24.0 4.55 -78.17 0.44
B 0.30 72.09 24.5 17.10

图6

织物的整体水分管理能力"

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