关键词: 经编, 全成形, 镂空网孔, 紧身衣, 结构设计, 预测模型

Abstract:

Objective Hollow-meshes are widely used in fabrics and clothing, but there is little research on warp-knitted hollow-mesh clothing to enable the design of hollow maillot with different sizes and styles. Warp-knitted hollow garments are greatly deformed after wearing, and many efforts are needed during the design process, leading to prolonged working procedures and waste of raw materials. This research aims to investigation the tensile deformation of hollow mesh to improve production efficiency.
Method When knitting, the jacquard makes chain knitting movement on the bottom fabric and does not form a connection in the adjacent wales, resulting in cracks in the fabric. This is the principle of forming hollow meshes in warp-knitted full-formed fabrics. Based on this principle, the hollow maillot was designed, which was made on RDPJ6/2 jacquard warp-knitting machine with nylon (44.4 dtex) and nylon/spandex covered yarn (22.2 dtex/55.6 dtex). Twelve woven fabrics with different hollow-meshes were designed with the same raw materials and process parameters, and eight observation points were added at the edge of the hollow-meshes to study the influence of the crosswise elongation of woven fabrics on the mesh morphology.
Result Tight maillot was designed the style of tights according to the characteristics and specific dimensions of women's upper body. The hollow-meshes were added and distributed longitudinally at equal intervals on the front, back and sleeves (Fig. 2). Jacquard stitches were formed according to the structural design drawing of a hollow maillot, with thin organization and thick organization as the bottom fabric respectively (Fig. 5). When the crosswise elongation of the samples increased, the crosswise diameter CC' tended to increase (Fig. 7), and vice versa. The correlation coefficients between the crosswise diameter CC' and the woven fabric elongation were all greater than 0.95, which shows a significant correlation. Besides, the three observation points on the same side fitted well with the top and bottom observation points on the parabola. The ratio of crosswise diameter CC' to vertical diameter AE (crosswise-vertical ratio) was linearly related to the fabric elongation (Fig. 8), in which the linear relationship between the crosswise-lengthways ratio y_g of thin tissue hollow-mesh and fabric elongation x was found to be y_g=0.012 9x+0.185. The linear relationship between the crosswise-vertical ratio y_h of thick tissue hollow-mesh and fabric elongation x was y_h=0.011 5x+0.15. The hollow-mesh and the surrounding bottom fabric were divided into several zones, and the calculation model of the length of the hollow-mesh crosswise diameter CC'was deduced and the calculation model of the width of pattern and width of area e was designed (Fig. 9). The actual mesh shape was calculated based on the model data, and it was simulated using WKCAD of Jiangnan University and Lingdi Style3D full-forming clothing module (Fig. 11).
Conclusion According to the tensile experiment of the hollow-mesh, there is a linear relationship between the shape change of the hollow-mesh and the elongation of the fabric. The deformation law of the tissues around the hollow-mesh is summarized, and the deformation prediction model of the hollow-mesh under tensile conditions is established. Through the prediction model, the deformation of the hollow-mesh is calculated, and the hollow maillot is modeled and simulated by WKCAD software of Jiangnan University and Style3D software of Lingdi Company, and the 3-D model of the deformed hollow maillot is obtained. By comparing the model with the shape of the deformed hollow-mesh, it is found that the error is controlled within the allowable range.

Key words: warp-knitted, fully formed, hollow-mesh, maillot, structure design, prediction model