单面纬编织物变化孔隙率结构设计与透气导湿性能评价

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20221202501

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为优化夏季用轻薄但效应单一的平针结构针织物的热湿调节功能,采用不同粗细的涤纶与氨纶搭配,通过原料细度、织物密度以及孔隙率调节,设计开发9种变化孔隙的单面纬编结构织物。研究原料、织物结构和孔隙对织物透气、吸湿等热湿舒适性能的影响。结果表明,孔隙特征与织物透气导湿性能呈现明显关联。织物体积质量在200~400 kg/m³之间,体积质量越小,透气率越高。在机型原料相同的情况下,局部使用细纱会使织物表面孔隙占比上升,织物组织结构影响平均孔径,孔径最大可以达到105 μm。在织物组织结构相同的情况下,织物平均孔径与单向水分传递指数和透湿率均呈现正相关;织物水分蒸发速率与织物体积质量和表面孔隙率也呈现正相关性。模糊综合评价的结果表明,对于单面添纱织物来说,添加氨纶虽然能增强单向导湿性能,但氨纶收缩织物孔隙,增加厚重,使透气效果降低,故在原料不含氨纶且织物表面孔隙率较高的情况下,织物的透气导湿性能最优。

关键词: 纬编织物, 单面添纱, 孔隙结构, 透气性能, 单向导湿, 涤纶, 氨纶

Abstract:

Objective Human body is prone to perspiration, and requirements for thermal and wet comfort of clothing are essential. Permeability and moisture conductivity of fabrics are important influencing factors for heat and humidity management and regulation, and the transmission of fabric to air and implicit sweat is largely affected by its pore structure, including pore size and pore distribution.

Method Weft knitted lace plated structures made from different yarn counts were prepared which formed a differential capillary effect inside the fabric to improve fabric moisture absorption and transmission. The lace plated structures used for making the fabrics endowed the fabric surface with different concave/convex patterns, aiming for improved wicking effect. 9.3 tex (384 f), 5.6 tex (24 f), 5.6 tex (216 f), 3.3 tex (12 f) polyester and 2.2 tex spandex were selected as raw materials, and the German Terrot S 296-2 single side circular weft knitting machine was used, and 9 types of fabrics were prepared with weft knitting lace plated structure as samples. The effects of fabric pores, raw materials and structure on fabric moisture absorption, moisture transmission and moisture dissipation were evaluated.

Results The air permeability of the fabrics was found to be positively correlated with the bulk density, surface porosity and average pore diameter. Since most of the air flew through the fabric pores, the size and distribution of fabric pores were adopted to determine the fabric permeability. The bulk density and average pore diameter showed a great influence on the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The bulk density and average pore diameter were positively correlated with the moisture conductivity as a whole according to specific conditions. With the same raw materials and organizational structure, the size and distribution of pores were found to affect the tightness of the fabric. Higher bulk density and larger the average pore diameter resulted in tighter fabric structure and greater capillary pressure. The surface porosity was positively correlated with the moisture dissipation performance of the fabric. From the perspective of fabric raw materials and structure, the addition of polyurethane fiber increased the gradient of differential capillary effect of the fabric, leading to improvement of the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric, but not the moisture dissipation. Fabric structure will affect the moisture conductivity and moisture dissipation performance. The amount of meshes on the fabric surface was directly related to the specific surface area for fabric evaporation, and more meshes would lead to the better moisture dissipation performance.

Conclusion The results show that the combination of ultrafine polyester and conventional yarn has advantage in moisture absorption and transmission. A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method is adopted for analysis. Conclusion is drawn, fineness difference of yarns can enrich the gradient of differential capillary effect of fabrics, and achieve a better differential capillary effect, improving the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The 6^#and 7^# fabrics in process 4 have certain advantages in the comprehensive properties of permeability and moisture conductivity, which means the plated fabric with high surface porosity and without spandex, composed of loops and floating structure, has the best comprehensive performance of moisture transmission and permeability. The surface porosity with more meshes in the unit circulation tissue, leading up to the better comprehensive moisture absorption and perspiration performance. The nine schemes in this paper are easy to produce and do not need to obtain unidirectional moisture conduction through additives, which provides theoretical and experimental basis for the development of sportswear fabrics with good moisture and heat management ability, environmental protection and sustainable utilization.

Key words: weft knitted fabric, single-sided lace plated stitch, pore structure, air permeability, unidirectional moisture conductivity, polyester yarn, spandex yarn

中图分类号:

TS186.1

方雪明, 董智佳, 丛洪莲, 丁玉琴. 单面纬编织物变化孔隙率结构设计与透气导湿性能评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(05): 51-59.

FANG Xueming, DONG Zhijia, CONG Honglian, DING Yuqin. Design of variable porosity structure and evaluation of permeablity and moisture conductivity of single side weft knitted fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(05): 51-59.

导出引用管理器 EndNote|Reference Manager|ProCite|BibTeX|RefWorks

链接本文: http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/10.13475/j.fzxb.20221202501

http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/Y2024/V45/I05/51

图/表 16

图1

表1

图2

表2

图3

图4

图5

图6

图7

图8

图9

图10

图11

图12

图13

图14

参考文献 15

[1]	程宁波, 缪东洋, 王先锋, 等. 用于个人热湿舒适管理的功能纺织品研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(10): 200-208. doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210401609
	CHENG Ningbo, MIAO Dongyang, WANG Xianfeng, et al. Research progress in functional textiles for personal thermal and wet comfort management[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(10): 200-208. doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210401609
[2]	钱娟, 谢婷, 张佩华, 等. 聚乙烯针织物的热湿舒适性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(7): 60-66.
	QIAN Juan, XIE Ting, ZHANG Peihua, et al. Thermal and wet comfort of polyethylene knitted fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(7): 60-66.
[3]	徐广标, 邱茂伟, 王府梅. 精纺毛织物的孔隙与结构及透气性的关系[J]. 毛纺科技, 2005, 33(4): 14-17.
	XU Guangbiao, QIU Maowei, WANG Fumei. The relationship between porosity, structure and air permeability of worsted fabrics[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2005, 33 (4): 14-17.
[4]	孙岑文捷, 倪军, 张昭华, 等. 针织运动服的通风设计与热湿舒适性评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(11): 122-127,135. doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200200807
	SUN Cen Wenjie, NI Jun, ZHANG Zhaohua, et al. Ventilation design and thermal and wet comfort evaluation of knitted sportswear[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(11): 122-127,135.
[5]	MIAO Dongyang, WANG Xianfeng, YU Jianyong, et al. A biomimetic transpiration textile for highly efficient personal drying and cooling[J]. Advanced Functional Materials, 2021, 31(14): 1-10.
[6]	许瑞超, 张一平, 陈莉娜. 针织运动面料的差动毛细导湿性[J]. 纺织学报, 2007, 28(3): 20-22.
	XU Ruichao, ZHANG Yiping, CHEN Lina. Differential capillary moisture conductivity of knitted sports fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2007, 28(3): 20-22.
[7]	翟孝瑜. 导湿快干针织运动面料的研究与开发[D]; 苏州: 苏州大学, 2007:13-17.
	ZHAI Xiaoyu. Research and development of moisture conductive and fast drying knitted sports fabric[D]. Suzhou: Soochow University, 2007:13-17.
[8]	李小倩, 刘让同, 耿长军, 等. 织物的孔隙特征与透气透湿性研究[J]. 棉纺织技术, 2019, 47(11): 17-20.
	LI Xiaoqian, LIU Rangtong, GENG Changjun, et al. Study on the pore characteristics and permeability of fabrics[J]. Cotton Textile Technology, 2019, 47(11): 17-20.
[9]	冯华峰, 刘晨, 王刚强, 等. 织物透气性计算方法的探究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2022, 50(6): 33-38.
	FENG Huafeng, LIU Chen, WANG Gangqiang, et al. Research on the calculation method of fabric permeability[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2022, 50(6): 33-38.
[10]	DAS A, YADAW S S. Study on moisture vapor transmission characteristics of woven fabrics from cotton acrylic bulked yarns[J]. Journal of the Textile Institute, 2013, 104(3): 322-329.
[11]	张文娟, 纪峰, 张瑞云, 等. 毛织物孔隙特征与透湿性关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(1): 67-72.
	ZHANG Wenjuan, JI Feng, ZHANG Ruiyun, et al. Relationship between pore characteristics and moisture permeability of wool fabrics[J]. Journal of Textiles, 2019, 40(1): 67-72.
[12]	王玥, 王春红, 徐磊, 等. 三维导湿结构环保针织面料开发与吸湿速干性能评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(10): 58-64. doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210907907
	WANG Yue, WANG Chunhong, XU Lei, et al. Development of environment-friendly knitted fabrics with three-dimensional moisture transmission structure and evaluation of moisture absorption and quick drying performance[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(10): 58-64. doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210907907
[13]	陈晴, 张家琳, 范丽敏. 经编间隔织物的透气性与透湿性[J]. 服装学报, 2017, 2(2): 107-112.
	CHEN Qing, ZHANG Jialin, FAN Limin. Air permeability and moisture permeability of warp knitted spacer fabric[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2017, 2(2): 107-112.
[14]	陈晴, 张鑫, 孙思瑾, 等. 添纱纬编导湿快干面料的性能[J]. 服装学报, 2019, 4(1): 5-12.
	CHEN Qing, ZHANG Xin, SUN Sijin, et al. Performance of weft added woven wet and fast drying fabrics[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2019, 4(1): 5-12.
[15]	楚鑫鑫, 肖红, 范杰. 织物凉感等级的主客观评价及确定[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(2): 105-113.
	CHU Xinxin, XIAO Hong, FAN Jie. Subjective and objective evaluation and determination of fabric cooling sensation grade[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(2): 105-113.

Metrics

Viewed

Full text

Abstract

Cited

Shared

Discussed

样本编号	面纱含量/%				地纱含量/%			上机织造参数及成品规格
样本编号	9.3 tex (384 f) 涤纶	5.6 tex (24 f) 涤纶	5.6 tex (216 f) 涤纶	3.3 tex (12 f) 涤纶	9.3 tex (384 f) 涤纶	5.6 tex (24 f) 涤纶	2.2 tex 氨纶	纱线长度/ (cm· (100针)^-1)	横密/ (纵行· (5 cm)^-1)	纵密/ (横列· (5 cm)^-1)
1^#	57.20		6.10			36.70		24.2/23.7/16	84	116
2^#	48.60		13.60			37.80		24.2/23.7/24.2	76	113
3^#	63.80			3.70		32.50		24/23.5/21	80	104
4^#	61.50			3.60		31.30	3.60	24/23.5/7/21	98	160
5^#			47.30	5.40		41.90	5.40	24/23.5/7/21	92	158
6^#	61.00			5.10		33.90		24/23.5/21	75	98
7^#		34.48		5.18	60.34			24/23.5/21	80	116
8^#	58.10			4.80		32.30	4.80	24/23.5/7/21	98	170
9^#		32.80		4.90	57.40		4.90	24/23.5/7/21	96	170

工艺方案	样本编号	厚度/ mm	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	体积质量/ (kg·m^-3)	表面孔隙率/%	平均孔径/μm
工艺1	1^#	0.38	139.2	366.32	9.95	46.455 2
工艺2	2^#	0.39	138.4	354.87	11.85	65.861 5
工艺3	3^#	0.37	124.2	335.68	15.17	99.635 6
	4^#	0.55	174.0	316.36	9.65	100.150 3
	5^#	0.64	163.8	255.94	8.66	105.580 7
工艺4	6^#	0.36	114.4	317.78	19.91	36.653 7
	7^#	0.37	112.8	304.86	19.92	28.497 7
	8^#	0.68	188.6	277.35	10.34	53.007 7
	9^#	0.67	187.4	279.70	10.46	50.286 9