纺织学报 ›› 2025, Vol. 46 ›› Issue (02): 244-250.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20240302001

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于头部特征区域的全成形防护帽的结构建模与工艺实现

罗璇1, 周奕1, 李端2(), 刘博3   

  1. 1.常州大学 美术与设计学院, 江苏 常州 213164
    2.嘉兴大学 设计学院, 浙江 嘉兴 314001
    3.无锡玮睿纺织科技有限公司, 江苏 无锡 214037
  • 收稿日期:2024-03-08 修回日期:2024-10-08 出版日期:2025-02-15 发布日期:2025-03-04
  • 通讯作者: 李端(1981—),男,讲师,博士。主要研究方向为针织技术及针织品设计与工艺。E-mail:jxxy_ld@zjxu.edu.cn
  • 作者简介:罗璇(1988—),女,讲师,博士。主要研究方向为全成形针织数字化技术。
    第一联系人:

    说 明:本文入围中国纺织工程学会第25届陈维稷论文卓越行动计划

  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(62202068);国家社会科学基金项目(20BSS054)

Structural modeling and process implementation of fully formed protective hat based on characteristic region of head

LUO Xuan1, ZHOU Yi1, LI Duan2(), LIU Bo3   

  1. 1. School of Arts and Design, Changzhou University, Changzhou, Jiangsu 213164, China
    2. College of Design, Jiaxing University, Jiaxing, Zhejiang 314001, China
    3. Wuxi Wei Rui Textile Technology Co., Ltd., Wuxi, Jiangsu 214037, China
  • Received:2024-03-08 Revised:2024-10-08 Published:2025-02-15 Online:2025-03-04

摘要:

针对现有防护帽主要依赖裁剪和缝制方法以适应人体头面部设计的现状,提出采用全成形编织工艺实现防护帽立体结构的编织。在分析人体头颈部特征参数基础上,结合全成形编织工艺特点,构建正面与侧面编织的防护帽结构模型并进行工艺实现。以SDS-APEX 3设计系统为开发工具,通过在四针床电脑横机上试织,实现了3款防护帽的编织。研究表明:一体编织成形的防护帽可较好地贴合人体头部、面部及颈部的轮廓曲线,结合不同设计需求可进行不同防护区域开口设计及组织结构的添加,来提高佩戴的舒适性,结合功能性纱线可实现防护帽附加值的提升。

关键词: 全成形防护帽, 头部特征, 结构建模, 移针成形, 局部编织成形

Abstract:

Objective The existing protective hats primarily rely on cutting and sewing methods to accommodate the protection of the human head and face. It is important to make the protective hats better fit the contour curves of the human head, face and neck, to improve wearing comfort, and to combine functional yarns in order to enhance the added value of the protective hats and expand its application areas. This research is carried out to explore the three-dimensional structure of the protective hat based on the use of full-forming knitting technology.

Method The research took the human head-and-neck model as the starting point, aiming to determine the relevant feature size parameters. The protective hat was divided into five main characteristic areas according to the functional requirements. Based on the full-forming knitting process, the structural model of the front and side knit protective hat was constructed, and the process model of the knit requirements was achieved through two-dimensional template conversion.

Results Three types of protective hats were made through trial knitting on a four-needle-bed computerized flatbed knitting machine. This state-of-the-art equipment allows precise control of the knitting parameters and ensures high-quality knitting results. Front knitting made use of a partial knitting technique, whereby knitting was done selectively on certain needles to create a specific pattern or opening. This technique was used to manufacture the eye openings to ensure functionality and ergonomics for the wearer. In addition, the neck had a cylindrical structure which was optimized to enhance the fit of the neck, ensuring that the hat is comfortable and secure to wear so as to provide better protection without compromising on comfort. The side knitting was carried out based on the same partial knit technique to achieve a single longitudinal knit from the top of the head to the back of the neck. This design approach ensures that the hat would fit more naturally to the contours of the head, providing a seamless fit with improved comfort and protection. In general, the use of needle shifting technology played a vital role in the overall design. This technique enabled intricate designs and better fit. Combined with multi-size process calculations, this method ensured that the connection between the hat rim and the body of the hat is precise and tight. This meticulous approach made it certain that the face-wrapping area would fit closely to the contours of the face, providing superior protection and a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. By utilizing advanced seamless knitting technology, the front and side knitting process not only improved the performance of the protective hat but also met the specific needs of various protection scenarios.

Conclusion The structural design and knitting of the three-dimensional fully formed protective hat were investigated based on a four-needle bed computer flat knitting machine, and the application of front and side knitting technology in three-dimensional structure shaping of protective hat was deeply analyzed. Through the integrated forming technology, the knitted hat was made to fit the human head and face curves, which not only solves the problem of reduced comfort due to excessive sewing and splicing of the traditional hat, but also optimizes the adaptability of the hat body to the head features, which significantly improves the wearing experience and protection effectiveness. The added value of the protective hat can be added by introducing functional yarns and designing fabric structures for specific areas. The knitting material can be adjusted according to different use scenarios to meet the functional and safety requirements of the protective hat.

Key words: full-fashioned protective hat, head characteristic, structural model, transfer needle to shape, partial knitting to shape

中图分类号: 

  • TS184.5

图1

人体头部特征模型 注:A为肩侧点;B为颈侧点;C为额下点;D为鼻下点;E为鼻下点;F为鼻中点;G为眉间点;H为发缘点;I为头顶点;J为枕后点;K为后颈窝点;L为颞骨点;M为颧骨点;N为眼角外侧点。"

表1

头颈部特征指标"

特征参数 编号 定义
头围 d1 G到点J水平1周的围度
颈中围 d2 颈中部水平1周的围度
颈根围 d3 颈根部水平1周的围度
上帽围 d4 正面编织中,点GHIJ到点K的围度
上帽围 d5 侧面编织中,点HIJ到点K的围度
下帽围 d6 正面编织中,点D到点F的围度
下帽围 d7 侧面编织中,点D到点E的围度
头颈高 h1 I到点C的长度
开口高 h2 侧面编织中,点H到点D的长度
开口高 h3 侧面编织中,点H到点E的长度
开口高 h4 正面编织中,点G到点F的长度
LM
垂直距离
h5 侧面编织中,点L到点M的长度
开口宽 w1 正面编织中,点NN'之间的水平距离
颧骨宽 w2 侧面编织中,点M到点M'的水平距离
开口斜度 b1 侧面编织中,点H到点L的斜向长度
开口斜度 b2 侧面编织中,点D到点M的斜向长度

图2

防护帽结构图"

图3

正面编织示意图"

图4

侧面局部成形示意图"

图5

侧面移针成形示意图"

图6

侧面移针滑移示意图"

图7

侧面编织帽边结构示意图"

表2

编织对比分析"

项目 编织
针数
编织
行数
编织时
间/min
贴合度 编织
局限
编织
优势
正面编织 622 4 027 55.27 整体较
宽松
帽顶不
够圆润
编织效
率优
侧面局部
成形
532 5 400 68.18 头到脖
颈贴合
机器工艺
要求高
编织设
计优
侧面移针
成形
690 4 339 83.02 面部包
裹贴合
机器工艺
要求高
脸部包
裹优

图8

防护帽编织成品示意图"

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