纺织学报 ›› 2017, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (11): 48-55.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxv.20161106108

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理

  

  • 收稿日期:2016-11-29 修回日期:2017-06-15 出版日期:2017-11-15 发布日期:2017-11-15

Structure and knitting principle of whole garment

  • Received:2016-11-29 Revised:2017-06-15 Online:2017-11-15 Published:2017-11-15

摘要:

为解决毛衫套口用工难的问题,更好地开发与推广全成形毛衫产品,从编织结构、编织工艺以及编织效率3方面对全成形毛衫进行分析与研究。从成形原理、全成形织针编织动作等方面详述了四针床电脑横机的编织原理。根据全成形毛衫以筒形为单位进行编织的原理,提出单筒形、多筒形、异形结构的全成形毛衫结构分类方法,并对3种结构的款式进行了举例。以开发一款多筒形结构套头毛衫为例,详细分析了全成形毛衫罗纹、成形、袖身合并、领以及合肩缝等关键部位在四针床电脑横机上的编织工艺,并将全成形毛衫和普通成形毛衫的编织时间进行对比。结果表明,全成形毛衫的编织效率提高40%以上。

关键词: 全成形毛衫, 针织, 四针床, 电脑横机, 编织原理

Abstract:

In order to solve the employment problems of linking and promote the development of the whole garment, a research from the respects of whole garment structure,knitting techniques and knitting efficiency. Firstly, the knitting theory on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine was discussed based on whole garment forming theory, knitting action of slide-needle and draw-off device. Secondly, according to the knitting principle of cylinder as the unit, the work proposed the whole garment structure in single cylinder, multi-cylinder and anomalous structure. And it gave examples of three structures. At the end, the key knitting techniques on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine of whole garment, such as rib, forming, sleeve – main body combination, neck ,joining shoulder seam and so on, is analyzed developing the turtle neck sweater of multi-cylinder structure as an example. And compared with pattern fashioning, knitting efficiency of whole garment was advanced more than 40%.

Key words: whole garment, knitting, four-bed, computerized flat knitting machine, knitting principle

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