纺织学报 ›› 2008, Vol. 29 ›› Issue (10): 87-91.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

雪纺面料性能与缝缩方向性研究

唐虹   

  1. 南通大学纺织服装学院;
  • 收稿日期:2007-10-10 修回日期:2008-04-23 出版日期:2008-10-15 发布日期:2008-10-15

Study on properties of silk chiffon and its seam puckering directions

TANG Hong   

  1. Textile and Apparel Institute;Nantong University;Nantong;Jiangsu 226007;China
  • Received:2007-10-10 Revised:2008-04-23 Online:2008-10-15 Published:2008-10-15

摘要: 由于缺乏对同一种面料缝缩方向性变化规律的了解,对缝缩的控制常常依赖于经验,为此研究了雪纺面料在不同方向上面料性能与缝缩的变化规律。在0°~360°范围内沿面料经向每隔10°分别取样并缝制,还包括45°、135°、225°和315°斜向角度,用FAST风格仪测定不同方向面料的弯曲性能、拉伸性能、剪切性能,分别测定面料不同方向的缝缩率,并通过AATCC标准对缝缩进行主观评价。分别建立面料性能方向性与缝缩率方向性以及主观评价值之间的回归预测方程,对合理选择面料丝缕方向进行服装造型设计及制作有指导意义。

Abstract: Over the years few studies have been reported on the changing rule of seam puckers of fabrics,people usually depend on their experience for the control of seam puckers.For these reasons,a study of the properties and seam puckers at different directions of silk chiffon was undertaken.In this study,fabrics are cut and sewed separately in different directions at 10° interval from 0° to 360°,besides,45°,135°,225° and 315° directions are also considered.Properties of these samples are tested by FAST instrument,including bending rigidity,extensibility,cutting resistance and seam puckers(Sp) at different directions,and subjective evaluations on seam pucker are carried out in accordance with the related standard of AATCC.The regression equations between fabric mechanical properties and the evaluation on seam puckers at different directions are established,which may serve as a guide for designing fashion shape and apparel manufacturing.

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