纺织学报 ›› 2008, Vol. 29 ›› Issue (10): 98-101.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

中国古代冠类首服的造型分类与文化内涵

程晓英;贾玺增   

  1. 天津工业大学;清华大学美术学院
  • 收稿日期:2007-10-23 修回日期:2008-04-08 出版日期:2008-10-15 发布日期:2008-10-15

Classification and cultural connotation of Chinese ancient hat-type headgear

CHENG Xiaoying;JIA Xizeng   

  1. 1.Tianjin Polytechnic University;Tianjin 300160;China;2.Academy of Arts & Design;Tsinghua University;Beijing 100084;China
  • Received:2007-10-23 Revised:2008-04-08 Online:2008-10-15 Published:2008-10-15

摘要: 在综合古代文献和前人研究的基础上,对"冠"之词义进行了广义与狭义的界定,按照冠类首服的冠体大小、束发和佩戴方式的区别,将其分为单体式、分体式和复体式3种形态。并对中国古代冠类首服的名称内涵、造型特征和演变传承进行了整体梳理与概括。指出中国古代冠类首服的戴用,不仅与国家建制、社会习俗、个人道德修养有直接关联,还与戴用者的身份相关,人们可以通过冠的式样清楚地辨识佩戴者的社会地位。同时冠也是封建社会贵族男子成年后拥有一定社会权力和地位的标志。

Abstract: Based on comprehensive researches on historical documents and present treatise,the ″kwan″ was defined broadly and narrowly,and was divided into three types such as monomer style,separated style and compound style according to their body size,head band and wear style.And their meanings implied in the name,molding style and evolvement were summarized.It is pointed that the wear and use of Chinese ancient kwan were directly related to the system of the country,social custom,and personal moral training,but related to the status of the wearer,so people could make a clear identification of the wearer according to the headgear.It also marked that a male adult aristocrat owned certain social rights and duties.

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