关键词: 氆氇藏袍, 结构形制, 节俭计算, 多功能性

Abstract:

In order to inherit and carry forward the Tibetan costume culture and provide the reliable empirical textual research on the structure study,  the Pulu Tibetan robe edged with tiger skin which is from the Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology as the research object and use double textual research method(specimen and document) as the research method. After do the data collection, mapping and structure recovery to the main structure, edging structure and facing structure of the specimen, then discover “three part body connect sleeve cross plane structure” and the special “complementary triangle insert and hem piece” structure of the specimen have the same system of “cross plane structure” of Chinese traditional costume. Through the data analysis and experiment of the specimen structure, it is concluded that the multifunctionality of Tibetan Pulu  robe shows the thrift calculation in the guide of “fabric width decide the structure of robe”.

Key words: Tibetan Pulu , robe , structure, thrift calculation, multifunctionality