关键词: 经编, 拉舍尔花边, 剪线工艺, 浮线, 剪线工艺面

Abstract:

Clipped multi-bar Raschel lace shows high requirements for design ability due to miscellaneous types and few references, which cause a limit on possibility for new designs. Therefore, this paper systemically conducts a study on the clipping technology. Firstly, clipped multi-bar Raschel laces are classified by lapping type, ground structure and clipping surface. After that, principle of forming float structures for inlay, fall-plate and stitch pattern bars is studied by analyzing connection between lapping movements of pattern bars and ground bars. Afterwards, influential factors, such as lapping types of pattern bars and types of ground structure, on clipping technical surface design are studied based on characters of clipped technical face and back. Furthermore, design methods of clipping technics are presented for different patterns, ground structures and clipping surfaces. Finally, it proposes technical requirements for clipping design in terms of minimum clipping courses and length of clipped ends.

Key words: warp-knitting, Raschel lace, clipping technique, float structure, clipping surface