纺织学报 ›› 2017, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (01): 116-120.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20160701705

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

汉族传统服饰中同形异义图案的辨析

  

  • 收稿日期:2016-07-06 修回日期:2016-09-22 出版日期:2017-01-15 发布日期:2017-01-16

Discrimination of homonymy patterns on Han’s traditional costumes

  • Received:2016-07-06 Revised:2016-09-22 Online:2017-01-15 Published:2017-01-16

摘要:

为探讨汉族服饰图案中的同形异义图案,完善汉族服饰的民俗内涵,从汉族服饰图案的产生根源、取材特点、审美标准等方面入手,先概述普遍存在的异形同义图案,进而以“一路连科”图案和“鹭鸶戏莲”图案作为实证案例,从构成元素、艺术表征、文化内涵3个方面对同形异义图案进行由表及里的分析阐述。研究表明汉族服饰图案中同形异义图案的存在有其主客观原因:客观原因是穿着者基于民俗性及个体内心情感表达的需要,借助植物动物等形象传达内心诉求,工艺局限使图案形象特征不尽精准;主观原因是基于不同的研究目的对图案原本并不精准的形进行分辨,再结合意义的表达进行思辨与划分的结果。

关键词: 汉族服饰, 同形异义图案, 文化内涵, 艺术表征

Abstract:

This research aims to explore the unique form of Han ethnic clothing homomorphic patterns. It firstly summarizes the already existing homomorphic patterns by investigating their origins, characteristics and aesthetic standards. Then, it took " Yi Lu Lian Ke" and " Lu Si Xi Lian" as examples to analyze the constructive elements, artistic expression and cultural connotations of homomorphic patterns. The study shows that the existence of Han ethnic clothing patterns is derived from objective and subjective reasons. The former is based on the people's folk customs and their inner expression needs by using the images of plants and animals. The limitation of the craftsmanship in that period enables the inaccuracy of the artistic characteristics of patterns. The latter comes from the analysis on the inaccuracy of patterns combing with their expressions and the categorizations.

Key words: Han's traditional costumes, homomorphic pattern, cultural connotation, artistic expression

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