纺织学报 ›› 2017, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (03): 49-55.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20160304707

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

织的定义与溯源

  

  • 收稿日期:2016-03-24 修回日期:2016-11-17 出版日期:2017-03-15 发布日期:2017-03-16

Definition and tracing of fabricating

  • Received:2016-03-24 Revised:2016-11-17 Online:2017-03-15 Published:2017-03-16

摘要:

为探究织的起源, 对比编、结、织、絮的现有定义,在理论上给出了各自更为精准的释义,并认为织具有统称性。同样,依据编、结的成形方式和结构特征,通过对机织、编织、针织和非织造及其织物特征的对比认为:机织各编织的父本均为编;针织以母本结为主、父本编为辅,其中纬编因编织工具简单而远早于经编;而非织造则是絮的后代。通过对编、结、织出土实物和痕迹证据的考证,得出编、结是最古老的软工具制作方式,其制成物是工具。编物和结物应该参照石器、陶器的命名,分别称为编器和结器,二者均出现在旧石器中期。由于织为使用工具的编、结,且转为服饰之用,故为编、结的后代。

关键词: 织, 编, 结, 起源, 痕迹

Abstract:

Fabricating as a forming method is adopted for along term, but no conclusion about its origin is drawn. In order to explore the origin of the fabricating, by the comparison on grneral definitions of braiding, knotting, fabricating and flocculating, the more precise definitions on them have been provided in theory, and the collective characteristics of fabricating have been recognized. Similarly, based on the forming method and structural characteristics of braiding and knotting, and by the comparison among weaving, braiding, knotting and nonwoven and the characteristics of fabrocs fromed by the four methods, it can be affirmed that the paternal origin of both weaving and 3-D braiding is braiding. The maternal origin of knitting is knotting as the main while the paternal origin of knitting is braiding as supplement. The tools needed for weft knitting are simpler, so it appears much earlier than warp knitting. While non-woven is the posterity of the flocking. By the investigation on unearthed evidence including the real objects and traces of braiding, knotting and flocculating, it is concluded that braiding and knotting are the oldest wasy to make the soft tools. The braids and knots, appearing in the mid-Paleolithic, should be named as braiding-formed tool and knotting-formed tool respectively, referring to the stone tool and pottery. Fabricating is a combination of braiding and knotting where tools are used and transfer to clothing-used, so fabricating is the posterity of the braiding and knotting.

Key words: fabricating, braiding, knotting, origin, trace

中图分类号: 

  • TS 101
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