关键词: 经编牛仔, 两面效应, 结构设计, 滴水扩散速率, 折痕回复性, 风格评价

Abstract:

The indigo yarns have lower color fastness, stain the skin easily and made the skin the humid feeling after moisture absorption, and the weft knitted denim is easy to ladder and has bad dimensional stability. To solwv above problems, the warp knitted denim fabrics were designed with indigo and gray yarns, irregular circle cross-section polyester black yarns, and spandex on Tricot of Karl Mayer with the four bars to let polyester close to the skin and cotton yarn appear in other side. The surface of different cross-section polyester was characterized by scanning electron microscope. The tensile properties of polyester, indigo and gray cotton yarns were tested. The bursting stregth, tensile slastic resilience and moisture absorption properties were investigated. The handle of the fabric was evaluated by the PhabrOmeter. The results show that the hairiness index of indigo yarn has a reduction by 17.1% and the strength was higher compaued with the gray cotton yarn. The water absorbency ratio, vertical wicking height, handle and wrinkle recovery of the warp knitted denim fabric woth irregular cross-section polyester are impeoved notably.

Key words: warp knitted denim, two-sided effect, structure design, water absorbency ratio, wrinkle recovery rate, handle evaluation