关键词: 整体褶裥结构, 自适应送经, 机织面料, 高效织造 

Abstract:

In order to enhance three dimensional(3-D) effects of woven fabrics, this paper presented an integral pleated structure with 3-D characteristics. In terms of technical difficulties in warp tension variation in the weaving process, the paper analyzed shaping principles and the shaping process of integral pleated woven fabrics, and identified key techniques of weaving pleated structures. Additionally, the paper designed an innovative warp let-off mechanism with self-adaption function. A case study of the warp let-off device design and pleated woven fabric development indicates that in pleated area weaving, lower warp beam is stopped but the tension deviation of lower warp yarns is increased because of the reed friction, and its yarn tension is 45 cN, while the tensionof upper warp yarns is around 20 cN. This tension situation can meet tension requirements of warp yarns and realize effective and stable weaving of pleated fabrics; moreover, the length of each pleat can vary from 0 to 23 cm with significantly 3-D effect.

Key words: integral pleated structure, self-adaptive warp let-off mechanism, woven fabric, effective weaving