纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (02): 69-75.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180502307

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

全成形毛衫腋下拼角编织工艺及性能

路丽莎, 蒋高明(), 罗璇   

  1. 江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2018-05-06 修回日期:2018-08-19 出版日期:2019-02-15 发布日期:2019-02-01
  • 通讯作者: 蒋高明
  • 作者简介:路丽莎(1989—),女,博士生。主要研究方向为全成形横编工艺研究与设计软件开发。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2016022-09)

Knitting process and properties analysis of underarm stitching of fully-fashioned garment

LU Lisha, JIANG Gaoming(), LUO Xuan   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-05-06 Revised:2018-08-19 Online:2019-02-15 Published:2019-02-01
  • Contact: JIANG Gaoming

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摘要：

为进一步深入了解全成形毛衫的一体成形原理、更好地开发出满足不同人群需求的成形产品,从单次移针、多次移针以及无移针3方面研究了拼角形成前袖身移针的编织工艺;从无拼角连接、单拼角连接、双拼角连接以及三角形连接4方面研究了拼角形成的编织工艺。以V领平肩袖为例,采用2合股纯羊毛纱对4种拼角类型的全成形毛衫进行编织以及对腋下部位的性能测试。结果表明:无拼角连接的编织用时最少,更适合于注重效率的编织;双拼角连接的布面效果最好,更适合于注重外观的毛衫编织;三角形连接的拉伸性能最好,更适合于注重强度的编织;无拼角连接的透气性最好,更适合于注重舒适性的编织。

关键词: 全成形毛衫, 腋下拼角, 编织工艺, 拼角类型, 移针

Abstract:

In order to further understand the integral forming principle of fully-fashioned garment and develop products meeting the needs of different people, the knitting process of sleeve transfer before underarm stitching was studied from three aspects: single transfer, multiple transfer and non-transfer, and the ways of underarm stitching were studied in four ways: no multi-knitting, multi-knitting on sleeve, multi-knitting on sleeve & body and tri-knitting on sleeve & body. Taking the V-neck shoulder sleeve as an example, the fully-fashioned garments formed with four types of underarm stitching were knitted with 2 plied wool yarns, respectively, and their properties of underarm areas were tested. The results show that no multi-knitting takes the least time, and is more suitable for efficiency-oriented production. Multi-knitting on sleeve & body shows the best visual effect, and is more suitable for appearance-oriented production; tri-knitting on sleeve & body possesses the best tensile property, and is more suitable for strength-oriented production; and the breathability of no multi-knitting ranks first, and is more suitable for comfort-oriented production.

Key words: fully-fashioned garment, underarm stitching, knitting process, stitching type, transfer

中图分类号: 

  • TS106.6

图1

毛衫腋下拼角示意图"

图2

单次移针编织图"

图3

多次移针编织图"

图4

无拼角连接编织图"

图5

无拼角连接实物图"

图6

单拼角连接袖身多织编织图"

图7

单拼角连接实物图"

图8

双拼角连接编织图"

图9

双拼角实物图"

图10

三角区域编织图"

图11

三角形连接实物图"

表1

4种拼角编织行数及时间"

织物名称 编织行数 编织时间/min
无拼角连接 3 216 68.40
单拼角连接 3 334 69.41
双拼角连接 3 306 69.28
三角形连接 3 524 70.20

表2

4种拼角的拉伸负荷"

织物名称 伸长/mm 负荷/N
无拼角连接 2 4.9
单拼角连接 2 5.7
双拼角连接 2 7.7
三角形连接 2 10.6
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