针刺复合羊毛面料的设计及其性能

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180401705

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (03): 49-53.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180401705

针刺复合羊毛面料的设计及其性能

陈静静¹, 王必其¹, 王雪琴¹^,²()

1.浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院、丝绸学院, 浙江杭州 310018
2.浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心, 浙江杭州 310018

收稿日期:2018-04-10 修回日期:2018-12-05 出版日期:2019-03-15 发布日期:2019-03-15
通讯作者: 王雪琴
作者简介:陈静静(1994—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为纺织材料与纺织品设计。
基金资助:
国家社科基金艺术学项目(15BH15);浙江理工大学教改项目(YZKC1717)

Innovation design and performance test of needle composite wool fabric

CHEN Jingjing¹, WANG Biqi¹, WANG Xueqin¹^,²()

1. Silk Institute, College of Materials and Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
2. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China

Received:2018-04-10 Revised:2018-12-05 Online:2019-03-15 Published:2019-03-15
Contact: WANG Xueqin

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为开发新型复合针刺羊毛面料,选用涤纶基布和羊毛为原料,利用现代无纺针刺机针刺复合面料,探究羊毛与涤纶基布以不同排列方式针刺后的效果对比,制作不同主题风格的创新面料;设计制作了不同羊毛含量、羊毛与面料不同排列组合的试样;通过测试试样的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、顶破强力来分析针刺面料的性能,以及影响这些性能变化的原因,探究其应用价值。结果表明:经过针刺复合后面料的力学性能比涤纶基布降低,但随着羊毛含量的增加,其力学性能提高,伸长率降低;针刺复合后面料纵向力学性能优于横向;羊毛平铺在双层涤纶布上针刺后复合面料的力学性能优于夹在双层涤纶布中间,且其针刺后的手感、图案表现效果最佳。

关键词: 针刺复合, 羊毛, 针刺复合羊毛面料, 排列方式, 力学性能

Abstract:

In order to develop innovative needle composite wool fabrics, the polyester fabric and wool fibers were selected as raw materials. Modern non-woven needling machine was used for needling composite fabrics. The effects of wool fibers and polyester fabrics according to different arrangements was investigated and compared, and fabrics with different theme styles were designed. The samples with different quantities of wool fiber and fabric were arranged in different modes. The strength of tensile breaking,tearing and bursting of the specimen were tested, respectively to analyze the performance of the needled fabric. The reasons for these mechanical properties were analyzed. Application value were explored. The results show that the mechanical properties of composite needling are lower than their polyester base cloth. However, the mechanical properties of fiber increases with the increa of the fiber quantity, and the elongation decreases. Longitudinal mechanical properties are better than horizontal ones. The mechanical properties of wool sandwiched between two layers of polyester fabric are better than that on the two layers polyester fabric, and the needled hand touch and pattens are the best.

Key words: needle composite, wool fiber, needle composite wool fabric, arrangement mode, mechanical performance

中图分类号:

TS176

陈静静, 王必其, 王雪琴. 针刺复合羊毛面料的设计及其性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(03): 49-53.

CHEN Jingjing, WANG Biqi, WANG Xueqin. Innovation design and performance test of needle composite wool fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(03): 49-53.

图/表 4

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表1

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图3

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试样编号	断裂强力/N		断裂伸长率/%		撕破强力/N		顶破强力/N	厚度/ mm	面密度/ (g·m^-2)
试样编号	纵向	横向	纵向	横向	纵向	横向	顶破强力/N	厚度/ mm	面密度/ (g·m^-2)
单层涤纶基布	409.0	132.9	33.4	48.7	20.8	17.0	244.6	0.29	112.5
双层涤纶基布	750.3	297.7	33.7	45.6	31.1	29.9	370.0	0.61	224.5
A	303.6	54.1	32.3	37.1	40.2	37.1	281.0	1.80	237.5
A1	311.9	64.1	29.5	33.4	48.8	47.2	306.0	1.94	255.0
A2	321.6	72.6	28.0	30.6	55.4	53.3	318.4	2.14	302.5
A3	355.3	82.8	23.7	28.1	68.7	66.9	353.1	2.29	342.5
B	478.1	85.4	45.5	53.6	47.9	45.8	415.7	2.08	305.0
B1	528.6	106.5	42.2	48.5	68.6	66.9	470.0	2.24	350.0
B2	644.4	129.5	38.5	45.4	77.9	74.1	497.0	2.47	425.1
B3	720.9	149.5	35.5	42.2	89.2	87.5	538.5	2.61	540.2
C	353.4	89.0	33.7	54.6	46.4	42.7	385.7	2.15	325.0
C1	417.3	106.5	29.7	50.6	51.1	48.1	401.7	2.32	367.5
C2	561.1	115.5	28.5	45.2	61.5	59.4	414.8	2.54	457.5
C3	638.7	142.2	25.7	40.7	77.6	75.2	425.5	2.67	578.6

针刺复合羊毛面料的设计及其性能

Innovation design and performance test of needle composite wool fabric

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