三层双色立体提花经编鞋材的开发

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180405206

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (03): 59-64.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180405206

三层双色立体提花经编鞋材的开发

张琦¹^,²(), 魏莉¹, 夏风林¹

1.江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏无锡 214122
2.武汉纺织大学湖北省数字化纺织装备重点实验室, 湖北武汉 430077

收稿日期:2018-04-23 修回日期:2018-11-22 出版日期:2019-03-15 发布日期:2019-03-15
作者简介:张琦(1977—),男,副教授。主要研究方向为新型针织装备与针织工艺。E-mail: zhangqi_vip@jiangnan.edu.cn。
基金资助:
湖北省数字化纺织装备重点实验室(武汉纺织大学)开放课题资助项目(DTL2017009);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP51727A);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2016022-21)

Development of warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper

ZHANG Qi¹^,²(), WEI Li¹, XIA Fenglin¹

1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
2. Hubei Provincial Key Laboratory of Digital Textile Equipment, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430077, China

Received:2018-04-23 Revised:2018-11-22 Online:2019-03-15 Published:2019-03-15

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

针对普通双针床贾卡经编机难以以一次成形方式生产带有间隔层的双色立体提花经编鞋材的问题,研究了普通双针床单贾卡经编机和双针床双贾卡经编机的梳栉配置,以及典型双色提花工艺中芝麻点效应和纯双色效应的提花原理,提出了新的梳栉配置方法、提花控制方案以及提花工艺,并根据新的梳栉配置方法对双针床无缝经编机加以改造,加装了间隔梳,利用新的提花控制方案控制前贾卡在前/后针床选择性成圈,再配合新的提花工艺来克服现有双色工艺因过密的“点”或“片”连接而难以衬入间隔丝的缺陷,最终在升级后的RDJ6/2经编机上成功试织出一款带有间隔层的双色立体提花鞋材产品。该实践结果表明,三层双色立体提花经编鞋材的成功研发,关键在于对编织机构、控制系统、提花工艺的针对性集成优化。

关键词: 间隔层, 双色效应, 立体提花, 经编鞋材, 双针床双贾卡

Abstract:

Aiming to the difficult production of the warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper in one-time for the ordinary double-needle bed jacquard warp knitting machine, a comparative analysis was made on the weaving institutions of double needle bed one/double-jacquard warp knitting machine and two-color sesame point effect and the pure two-color jacquard effect, and a new comb configuration method and jacquard control system and new jacquard method were proposed. According to the new comb configuration method, the double needle bed seamless warp knitting machine was modified, and the interval comb was installed. The new jacquard control scheme was adopted to control the Pre-Jaka comb to weave in front needle bed selectively. In combination with a new color block jacquard process that overcomes the drawbacks of the existing two-color process due to excessive dots or slices connections hard to line the spacer filaments, a two-color stereo jacquard shoe with a spacer layer was successfully woven on the upgraded RDJ6/2 warp knitting machine finally. The results show that the key for development of warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper is the assembly optimization of knitting structure, control system and jacquard process.

Key words: spacer, double color effect, 3-D jacquard, warp-knitting shoe-upper, double needle bed and double jacquard

中图分类号:

TS184.3

张琦, 魏莉, 夏风林. 三层双色立体提花经编鞋材的开发[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(03): 59-64.

ZHANG Qi, WEI Li, XIA Fenglin. Development of warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(03): 59-64.

图/表 10

图1

表1

图2

表2

表3

图3

图4

表4

图5

表5

参考文献 11

[1]	韩玉梅, 缪旭红, 黄忠清. 经编成型鞋面的设计与开发[J]. 产业用纺织品, 2014,32(12):9-12.
	HAN Yumei, MIAO Xuhong, HUANG Zhongqing. Design and development of warp-knitted uppers[J]. Technical Textiles, 2014,32(12):9-12.
[2]	钟君, 丛洪莲, 蒋高明. 经编提花间隔鞋面材料的开发[J]. 针织工业, 2016(7):11-14.
	ZHONG Jun, CONG Honglian, JIANG Gaoming. Development of warp-knit jacquard shoe upper material[J]. Knitting Industries, 2016(7):11-14.
[3]	刘文升. 我国纺织工业需要绿色生产[J]. 上海毛麻科技, 2015(3):45-48.
	LIU Wensheng. China's textile industry needs green production[J]. Shanghai Wool & Jute Journal, 2015(3):45-48.
[4]	张姿叶, 蒋高明, 丛洪莲, 等经编贾卡提花间隔织物编织工艺探讨[J]. 纺织导报, 2010(2):56,58-60.
	ZHANG Ziye, JIANG Gaoming, CONG Honglian, Discussion on weaving process of jacquard interwoven fabric[J]. China Textile Leader, 2010(2):56,58-60.
[5]	钟君, 丛洪莲, 张燕婷, 等. 经编双贾卡提花鞋面织物的计算机辅助设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2016,37(11):148-153.
	ZHONG Jun, CONG Honglian, ZHANG Yanting, et al. Computer-aided design of warp knitted double Jacquard shoe upper fabrics[J]. Journal of Textiles Research, 2016,37(11):148-153.
[6]	李筱一, 缪旭红, 杨大伟, 等. 经编间隔双色成形鞋面的工艺设计[J]. 针织工业, 2016(2):21-23.
	LI Xiaoyi, MIAO Xuhong, YANG Dawei, et al. Design of warp-knitted double-colored shoe upper[J]. Knitting Industries, 2016(2):21-23.
[7]	KLEJIMIR, MIZTA, Warp knitting machine with piezo electrically controlled jacquard patterning: Korea, 960000085[J]. 1996-01-03.
[8]	魏赛男, 姚继明, 彭志远. 鞋材用经编间隔织物的服用性能[J]. 上海纺织科技, 2012(11):16-19.
	WEI Sainan, YAO Jiming, PENG Zhiyuan. Wearing properties of warp-knitted spacer fabrics for shoe-making[J]. Shanghai Textile Science and Technology, 2012 (11):16-19.
[9]	钟君. 经编贾卡提花鞋面织物的设计与仿真[D]. 无锡:江南大学, 2017: 13-14.
	ZHONG Jun. Design and simulation of warp jacquard vest fabric[D]. Wuxi:Jiangnan University, 2017: 13-14.
[10]	夏风林, 刘浪, 郑静经编双针床双贾卡双色成形鞋材开发[J]. 纺织导报, 2018(2):44,46-48.
	XIA Fenglin, LIU Lang, ZHENG Jing, Development of two-tone fully-fashioned vamp on two-needle bar double-jacquard warp-knitting machine[J]. China Textile Leader,
[11]	钟君, 丛洪莲, 张燕婷, 等. 经编单层立体提花鞋面织物的花型设计与生产工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(2):111-116.
	ZHONG Jun, CONG Honglian, ZHANG Yanting, et al. Pattern design and production process of warp-knitted single-layer stereo jacquard shoe-upper[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(2):111-116.

Metrics

Viewed

Full text

Abstract

Cited

Shared

Discussed

机器类型	梳栉编织位置
机器类型	前针床	后针床	前后针床
双针床单贾卡经编机 (图1(a)RDPJ7/1)	GB1、GB2	JB5、GB6、GB7	GB3、GB4形成间隔层
双针床双贾卡经编机 (图1(b)RDPJ4/2)	GB1	GB4	JB2、JB3根据需要在前后针床选择性地编织,并将前后片紧密地连接起来
新型双针床双贾卡立体提花经编机(图1(c) 改造后的RDJ6/2)	GB1、GB2	JB5、GB6	GB3形成间隔层,JB4根据需要选择性地在前后针床进行编织,结合新工艺不会将前后片紧密连接

提花效应	垫纱数码	偏移信号	组织颜色	绘图色号
厚组织	1-0-1-1/2-3-1-1//	HHHHTTHH	红色	1号色
薄组织	1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//	HHHHHHHH	绿色	4号色
薄组织	1-0-0-0/1-2-0-0//	TTHHTTHH	蓝色	8号色
网孔组织	1-0-0-0/0-1-0-0//	TTHHHHHH	白色	12号色
薄组织连接组织	1-0-1-2/1-2-1-1//	TTHTHHHH	黄色	2号色
网孔组织连接组织	1-0-0-1/0-1-0-0//	HHHTHHHH	浅绿色	18号色
厚组织连接组织	1-0-1-2/2-3-1-1//	HHHTTTHH	浅粉色	23号色

色纱	组织	垫纱数码
JB2 A色	薄组织	1-0-2-2/1-2-1-1//	HHHTHHHT
	网孔组织	2-1-2-2/1-2-1-1//	TTHTHHHT
	厚组织	1-0-2-2/2-3-1-1//	HHHTTTHT
JB2 B色	薄组织	1-1-1-2/2-2-1-0//	HTHHTHHH
	网孔组织	1-1-1-2/2-2-1-0//	HTHHTHHH
	厚组织	1-1-1-2/2-2-1-0//	HTHHTHHH
JB3 A色	薄组织	0-0-1-2/1-1-1-0//	THHHHTHH
	网孔组织	0-0-1-2/1-1-1-0//	THHHHTHH
	厚组织	0-0-1-2/1-1-1-0//	THHHHTHH
JB3 B色	薄组织	1-0-1-1/1-2-0-0//	HHHTHHTH
	网孔组织	2-1-1-1/1-2-0-0//	TTHTHHTH
	厚组织	1-0-1-1/2-3-0-0//	HHHTTTTH

提花效应	JB4				JB5
提花效应	垫纱数码		偏移信息		垫纱数码		偏移信息
A色		1-1-2-1/2-2-1-2//		HTTHTHHT		1-1-2-3/1-1-2-1//		HHTTHHTT
B色		1-0-2-2/2-3-1-1//		HHTTTTHH		1-1-2-3/1-1-3-2//		HHHHHHTT

梳栉	垫纱数码	原料规格	穿经	送经量/ (mm·腊克^-1)
GB1	0-1-1-1/ 1-0-0-0//	166.7 dtex 阳离子涤纶	满穿	1 690
GB2	2-3-1-1/ 1-0-1-1//	166.7 dtex 阳离子涤纶	满穿	2 500
GB3	1-0-2-1/ 2-3-1-2//	33.3 dtex 涤纶单丝	满穿	7 600
JB4	1-0-1-1/ 1-2-1-1//	166.7 dtex 阳离子涤纶	满穿	2 600
JB5	1-1-1-2/ 1-1-1-0//	222.2 dtex 涤纶	满穿	2 550
GB6	0-0-0-1/ 1-1-1-0//	222.2 dtex 涤纶	满穿	1 690

三层双色立体提花经编鞋材的开发

Development of warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper

RichHTML

PDF (PC)

摘要/Abstract

引用本文

使用本文

图/表 10

参考文献 11

相关文章 1

Metrics

本文评价

推荐阅读 0