组合全显色提花织物的纹理设计原理与方法

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180301506

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为使组合全显色提花织物兼具色彩仿真和触觉肌理效果,提出一种与组合全显色组织结构相匹配的纹理组织设计方法。以蜂巢和透孔2种具有不同纹理效应的联合组织为基础组织,进行3种不同方向的组织循环递增设计,并在高密度设计条件下进行织物样品的织造。对织物纹理效应进行比较分析表明,组织循环数的递增加强设计有效强化了蜂巢组织织物的凹凸效应与透孔组织织物的纹理效果。应用该设计方法的实例表明,递增加强设计方法不仅解决了组合全显色组织与纹理组织的交织平衡问题,同时也满足了组合全显色提花织物对不同渐变层次的凹凸、纹理效应的设计需求。

关键词: 提花织物, 组合全显色结构, 纹理组织, 肌理效果

Abstract:

In order to endue the jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure with outstand texture effect, two types of combination weaves including honeycomb and mock leno were employed as basic weaves to create series of derivative weaves by increasing the repeat number in three different directions, and thus fabric samples were produced under the condition of high density. By means of the comparative analysis on fabric texture effect, it is shown that the increasing of the weave repeat number can strengthen the emboss texture effect of fabric samples using honeycomb weaves and visual texture effect of mock leno. Application design case further evidences that the proposed design method solves the problem of interwoven balance between the full-color compound structure and the texture weaves, and creates different gradient levels of fabric texture weaves for the jacquard fabric, and it provides inspiring references for the creative design of jacquard fabrics based on full-color compound structure with abundant fabric texture effect.

Key words: jacquard fabric, full-color compound structure, texture weave, texture effect

中图分类号:

TS941.26

张爱丹, 周赳. 组合全显色提花织物的纹理设计原理与方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(05): 36-40.

ZHANG Aidan, ZHOU Jiu. Design principle and method of texture effect in jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(05): 36-40.

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参考文献 12

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基础组织编号	不同递增倍数下组织循环数(经向×纬向)
基础组织编号	0	2	3	4	8
F1	6×6	12×6	—	24×6	—
F2	12×12	24×12	32×12	48×12	—
F3	16×16	32×16	48×16	—	—
T1	6×8	12×8	—	24×8	48×8
T2	16×16	32×16	48×16	—	—