纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (05): 41-46.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180600706

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

全成形毛衫局部编织原理及其应用

王盼, 吴志明()   

  1. 江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2018-06-01 修回日期:2018-10-29 出版日期:2019-05-15 发布日期:2019-05-21
  • 通讯作者: 吴志明
  • 作者简介:王盼(1991—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为全成形产品编织工艺。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);国家轻工技术与工程一流学科自主课题资助项目(2018-28)

Principle and application of partial knitting on fully formed sweater

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-06-01 Revised:2018-10-29 Online:2019-05-15 Published:2019-05-21
  • Contact: WU Zhiming

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摘要：

为更好地实现全成形毛衫局部三维立体成形,以四针床电脑横机及SDS-ONE APPEX 3设计系统为依托,重点对局部编织在全成形毛衫上的应用进行研究。将局部编织工艺按照编织方法分为常规局部编织和按比例局部编织,探讨局部编织在肩斜、领部、下摆、挂肩以及平袖山部位的应用。结果表明:常规局部编织可形成光滑平整的肩部斜线形状、前后领深弧线、不规则下摆;按比例局部编织是全成形毛衫独有的编织方式,主要应用于挂肩和平袖山编织,可用于维持筒状编织平衡和实现袖子、大身的连接,形成存在一定高度差的筒状编织物;采用局部编织工艺可提高全成形毛衫的舒适性和美观性,也为毛衫款式开发提供思路,满足当代消费者的个性化需求。

关键词: 全成形毛衫, 局部编织, 结构应用, 四针床电脑横机

Abstract:

In order to better realize the partial three-dimensional forming of fully formed sweater, the application of the partial knitting principle on fully formed sweater based on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and design system of SDS-ONE APPEX 3 was researched emphatically. The partial knitting process was divided into normal partial knitting and partial knitting in proportion according to the knitting methods. The application of partial knitting in shoulder slope, neck, lower hem, hanging shoulder and flat sleeve top was discussed. The results show that the normal partial knitting can be applied to form the oblique line shape with smooth and smooth outer edge, front and back neck drop curve, irregular lower hem. The partial knitting in proportion is the unique knitting method of fully formed sweater. It is mainly applied in the process of hanging shoulder and flat sleeve top. It is applied to maintain a tubular balance and realize the connection of sleeves and body and a tube fabric with a certain height difference is formed at last. The adoption of partial knitting technology can improve the comfort and beauty of fully formed sweater, and also provide ideas for the design development of sweater, so as to meet the personalized needs of contemporary consumers.

Key words: fully formed sweater, partial knitting, structural application, four-bed computerized flat knitting machine

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.64

图1

局部编织 注:图中数字为编织行数。"

图2

单边暂停单边编织"

图3

两边暂停中间编织"

图4

中间暂停两边编织"

图5

使用2∶4∶3比例时纱嘴移动轨迹"

图6

平肩式1编织工艺"

图7

平肩式2编织工艺"

图8

落肩式编织工艺"

图9

领部局部编织应用"

图10

下摆部位局部编织应用"

图11

挂肩部位局部编织应用 注:图中灰色部分表示翻针、移圈工艺行。"

图12

平袖山部位局部编织应用"

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