单面纬平针织物平幅轧蒸染色防卷边控制

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180603906

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (05): 91-96.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180603906

单面纬平针织物平幅轧蒸染色防卷边控制

马振萍¹^,², 毛志平¹^,²^,³, 钟毅¹^,²^,³, 徐红¹^,²^,³()

1.东华大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室, 上海 201620
2.东华大学化学化工与生物工程学院, 上海 201620
3.东华大学纺织科技创新中心, 上海 201620

收稿日期:2018-06-11 修回日期:2019-01-10 出版日期:2019-05-15 发布日期:2019-05-21
通讯作者: 徐红
作者简介:马振萍(1993—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织物平幅染色及卷边控制技术。
基金资助:
国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309700)

De-curling control of single-weft knitted fabric in open width pad-steam dyeing

MA Zhenping¹^,², MAO Zhiping¹^,²^,³, ZHONG Yi¹^,²^,³, XU Hong¹^,²^,³()

1. Key Laboratory of Science & Technology of Eco-Textiles, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
2. College of Chemistry, Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
3. Innovation Center for Textile Science and Technology, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China

Received:2018-06-11 Revised:2019-01-10 Online:2019-05-15 Published:2019-05-21
Contact: XU Hong

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

针对单面纬平针织织物平幅轧蒸染色中容易卷边的问题,采用浆边的方法来控制卷边,并对防卷边涂层胶所用浆料及施加方式进行选择和优化。通过对比浆边织物平幅轧蒸染色各工况下的卷边率及其耐洗性,筛选出聚丙烯酸酯-聚氨酯浆料用于针织物平幅轧蒸染色中的防卷边整理,并通过工艺优化,获得了适合中、厚型单面纬平针织物的防卷边施胶方式:于单面纬平针织物的反面,沿织物纹路方向进行锯齿状刮涂,浆膜厚度达到0.2 mm,浆边宽度不低于2 cm。结果表明,这种防卷边施胶方式在平幅轧蒸染色的各工况下都可有效地控制织物的卷边,且不会影响后续的染色效果。

关键词: 平幅染色, 单面纬平针织物, 聚丙烯酸-聚氨酯, 卷边, 耐洗性

Abstract:

The edges of single-weft knitted fabric was treated with paste to prevent the edges from curling during the open width pad-steam dyeing process. The sizing agents and their coating applied ways were optimized by comparing the curling rates and washing durability during open-width wet processing. As a result, the polyacrylate-polyurethane was used as a sizing agent. The suitable processes for medium weight and thick knitted fabric are as follows: the serrated coating is applied along the grain direction on the reverse side of fabrics, and the thickness of the coating reaches 0.2 mm. The width of the coating is no less than 2 cm. The results show that the method can effectively control the curling of the knitted fabric in the open width pad-steam dyeing process and has no effect on the dyeing performance.

Key words: open width dyeing, single-weft knitted fabric, polyacrylate-polyurethane, curling, washing durability

中图分类号:

TS181.8

马振萍, 毛志平, 钟毅, 徐红. 单面纬平针织物平幅轧蒸染色防卷边控制[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(05): 91-96.

MA Zhenping, MAO Zhiping, ZHONG Yi, XU Hong. De-curling control of single-weft knitted fabric in open width pad-steam dyeing[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(05): 91-96.

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硬挺剂种类	卷边率C/%
硬挺剂种类	浆边烘干	浸轧染液	汽蒸	皂煮	烘干
聚氨酯	0	9.05	0	16.03	12.06
F-404	0	2.03	0	11.44	15.88
EcofunYTJ	0	4.27	0	11.22	10.24
丙烯酸酯-聚氨酯	0	0.00	0	5.73	0.00

硬挺剂种类	整理后质量/g	水洗后质量/g	质量损失率/%
聚氨酯	1.46	1.37	6.2
F-404	1.41	1.35	4.3
EcofunYTJ	1.46	1.41	3.4
丙烯酸酯-聚氨酯	1.46	1.46	0.0

浆膜厚度/mm	卷边率C/%
浆膜厚度/mm	正面	反面
0.20	8.16	0.00
0.25	7.81	0.00
0.30	3.89	0.00
0.40	9.68	0.00
0.50	11.34	0.92

浆边宽度/cm	卷边率C/%
浆边宽度/cm	烘干后	前处理后	浸轧染液	汽蒸	皂煮后
1.0	1.89	16.66	—	—	—
1.5	0.00	0.87	0	0	0
2.0	0.00	0.00	0	0	0

单面纬平针织物平幅轧蒸染色防卷边控制

De-curling control of single-weft knitted fabric in open width pad-steam dyeing

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