纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (09): 128-135.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180803008

• 染整与化学品 • 上一篇    下一篇

用超高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测-串联质谱法分析畲族服饰中蓝色染料

闫晶1,2, 张寻1, 雷光振3, 范雪荣1()   

  1. 1.江南大学 纺织服装学院, 江苏 无锡 214122
    2.浙江农林大学 设计艺术学院, 浙江 临安 311300
    3.中国畲族博物馆, 浙江 景宁 323500
  • 收稿日期:2018-08-13 修回日期:2018-12-23 出版日期:2019-09-15 发布日期:2019-09-23
  • 通讯作者: 范雪荣
  • 作者简介:闫晶(1979—), 女, 副教授, 博士生。 主要研究方向为畲族服饰文化及技艺。
  • 基金资助:
    浙江省高校重大人文社科攻关计划项目(2014QN028)

Analysis on blue dyes in She costumes by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-tandem mass spectrometry

YAN Jing1,2, ZHANG Xun1, LEI Guangzhen3, FAN Xuerong1()   

  1. 1. School of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. School of Art Design, Zhejiang A & F University, Lin'an, Zhejiang 311300, China
    3. Chinese She Museum, Jingning, Zhejiang 323500, China
  • Received:2018-08-13 Revised:2018-12-23 Online:2019-09-15 Published:2019-09-23
  • Contact: FAN Xuerong

RichHTML

2

PDF (PC)

109

摘要：

为鉴别畲族传统服饰中的蓝色染料成分,运用超高效液相色谱-光电二极管阵列检测-串联四极杆飞行时间质谱分析了4件畲族服饰文物中的染料。通过对染料萃取液的超高效液相色谱分离,结合高分辨率飞行时间质谱数据和二极管阵列检测器采集的紫外-可见光谱数据,以保留时间、化合物精确分子离子质量及紫外-可见吸收光谱对染料进行定性分析。结果显示蓝色系样品均由靛蓝色素染成。结合文物背景可知:清末时丽水地区可能兼有天然靛蓝和合成靛蓝染料;民国时期景宁地区合成靛蓝染色纱线可能已进入民间;新中国成立后景宁地区畲族仍在使用天然靛蓝染料。

关键词: 畲族服饰, 天然靛蓝, 鉴别, 超高效液相色谱, 二极管阵列检测, 串联质谱法

Abstract:

In order to identify blue dye components of the She costume, four historical textiles in the Chinese She Museum were characterized by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry. By means of separation of extractive solution by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography, the qualitative analysis of dyestuff was carried out according to the retention time, the exact molecular mass of the compound and the UV-visible absorption spectrum, from high resolution time-of-flight mass spectrometry data and spectral data collected by diode array detector. The results show that all the blue samples are dyed by indigo blue. According to the background of these cultural relics, the natural indigo and synthetic indigo dyes are probably both used in Lishui area at the end of the Qing Dynasty. The synthetic indigo dyed yarn might be introduced to She people in Jingning area in the early 20th century. The natural indigo dye is still used by She people in Jingning after the founding of the People's Republic of China.

Key words: She costume, natural indigo, identification, ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography, diode array detection, tandem mass spectrometry

中图分类号: 

  • TS193

图1

测试样品"

表1

梯度洗脱体系"

时间/min 体积分数/%
A B
初始 2.00 98.00
0.10 2.00 98.00
8.00 40.00 60.00
10.00 80.00 20.00
12.00 100.00 0.00
12.10 2.00 98.00

图2

各标准品超高效液相色谱图"

图3

各标准品特征色谱峰不同保留时间所对应的二级质谱图"

图4

各标准品的紫外-可见吸收光谱"

图5

1号样品超高效液相色谱图"

图6

1号样品4.36 min处组分的二级质谱图"

图7

1号样品 4.29 min处组分的紫外-可见吸收光谱图"

图8

2号样品超高效液相色谱图"

图9

2号样品二级质谱图"

图10

2号样品紫外-可见吸收光谱图"

图11

3号样品超高效液相色谱图"

图12

3号样品4.36 min处组分的二级质谱图"

图13

3号样品 4.29 min处组分的紫外-可见吸收光谱图"

图14

4号样品超高效液相色谱图"

图15

4号样品二级质谱图"

图16

4号样品紫外-可见吸收光谱图"

[1] 闫晶, 范雪荣, 吴微微. 畲族古代服饰文化变迁[J]. 纺织学报, 2011,32(2):112-116.
YAN Jing, FAN Xuerong, WU Weiwei. Changes on the ancient costume culture of She nationality[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2011,32(2):122-116.
[2] 上海市纺织科学研究院《纺织史话》编写组. 纺织史话[M]. 上海: 上海科学技术出版社, 1978: 149.
Compilation Group of Textile History of Shanghai Textile Science Research Institute. History of Textile[M]. Shanghai: Shanghai Science and Technology Press, 1978: 149.
[3] 曹振宇. 合成染料传入我国及初期贸易[J]. 中国商贸, 2009,18(13):160-161.
CAO Zhenyu. Synthetic dyes introduced into China and initial trade[J]. China Business & Trade, 2009,18(13):160-161.
[4] 赵瑞廷. 首都博物馆文物科技研究[M]. 北京: 北京燕山出版社, 2012: 394.
ZHAO Ruiting. Capital Museum Cultural Relics Science and Technology Research [M]. Beijing: Beijing Yanshan Press, 2012: 394.
[5] WOUTERS J. The scale insect dyes (Homoptera: coccoidea): species recognition by HPLC and diode-array analysis of the dyestuffs[J]. Ann Soc Entomol Fr, 1989,25(4):393-410.
[6] ZHANG X, LAURSEN R A. Development of mild extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in textiles of historical interest using LC-diode array detector-MS[J]. Anal Chem, 2005,77(7):2022-2025.
doi: 10.1021/ac048380k pmid: 15801733
[7] JURADO-LÓPEZ Alicia, DEMKO Ornela, CLARK Robin J H, et al. Analysis of the palette of a precious 16th century illuminated Turkish manuscript by Raman microscopy[J]. Raman Spectrose, 2004,35(2):119-124.
[8] 刘剑, 陈克, 周旸, 等. 微型光纤光谱技术在植物染料鉴别与光照色牢度评估中的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2014,35(6):85-88.
LIU Jian, CHEN Ke, ZHOU Yang, et al. Identification and light-fastness evaluation of vegetable dyes using miniature spectrometer with fiber optics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2014,35(6):85-88.
[9] LIU J, MOURI C, LAURSEN R. Characterization of dyes in ancient textiles from Yingpan, Xinjiang[J]. Archaeol Sci, 2013,40(12):4444-4449.
[10] 李玉芳, 魏书亚, 王亚蓉. 应用超高效液相色谱-四极杆飞行时间质谱及二极管阵列联用技术对唐代纺织品上植物染料的分析和测定[J]. 中国科学(技术科学), 2016,46(6):626.
LI Yufang, WEI Shuya, WANG Yarong. Identification of indigoid dyes in natural organic pigments used in textiles of Tang Dynasty by ultra performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time of flight-mass spectro-metry and diode array detector[J]. Scientia Sinica Technologica, 2016,46(6):626.
[11] 董娟娥, 龚明贵, 梁宗锁. 板蓝根、大青叶中靛蓝和靛玉红的测定方法比较[J]. 西北农林科技大学学报(自然科学版), 2007,35(2):215-219,217.
DONG Juane, GONG Minggui, LIANG Zongsuo. Comparison of three methods of measuring indigo and indirubinin in Radix isatidis and Folium isatidis[J]. Journal of Northwest A&F University (Natural Science Edition), 2007,35(2):215-219,217.
[12] 刘文凤, 余志成. 采用3种光谱技术鉴别天然靛蓝染色蚕丝织物[J]. 蚕业科学, 2015,41(6):1050-1054.
LIU Wenfeng, YU Zhicheng. Discrimination of silk fabrics dyed with natural indigo by three kinds of spectroscopy technologies[J]. Science of Sericulture, 2015,41(6):1050-1054.
[13] (韩) 金成熺. 染作江南春水色[M]. 昆明: 云南人民出版社, 2006: 104.
KIM Sunghee. Water Color of Jiangnan Spring [M]. Kunming: Yunnan people's Publishing House, 2006: 104.
[1] 魏子涵 李文霞 杜宇君 马静雯 郑佳辉. 织物傅里叶变换衰减全反射红外光谱库的建立及应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(08): 64-68.
[2] 邢文宇 邓娜 辛斌杰 于晨. 基于多特征融合图像分析技术的羊毛与羊绒鉴别[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(03): 146-152.
[3] 李冰 盖国平 郭蔚 董永春 陈兴灿. 鲜茧与干茧生丝的结构与性能比较及其鉴别方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(03): 32-38.
[4] 金肖克 田伟 朱炜婧 蒋晶晶 祝成炎. 基于高光谱成像系统的纺织品成分定性鉴别[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(10): 50-57.
[5] 韦树琛 丁欣 李文霞 王华平 张朔. 废旧聚酯纤维制品近红外定量分析模型的建立及验证[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(07): 63-68.
[6] 王飞 靳向煜. 应用卷积网络及深度学习理论的羊绒与羊毛鉴别[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(12): 150-156.
[7] 朱俊平 路凯 柴新玉 钟跃崎 . 羊绒与羊毛直径的水平集中轴线法测量[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(09): 14-18.
[8] 路凯 钟跃崎 朱俊平 柴新玉. 基于视觉词袋模型的羊绒与羊毛快速鉴别方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(07): 130-134.
[9] 陈敬玉. 民族迁徙影响下的浙闽畲族服饰传承脉络[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(04): 115-120.
[10] 吴刚 王力君 张明誉 郭方龙 赵珊红. 涤纶中致癌芳香胺的加速溶剂萃取－UPLC-MS/MS快速测定[J]. 纺织学报, 2014, 35(7): 94-0.
[11] 刘剑 陈克 周旸 赵丰 彭志勤 胡智文. 微型光纤光谱技术在植物染料鉴别与光照色牢度评估中的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2014, 35(6): 85-0.
[12] 芦春梅 牟峻 周博宇 张晓燕 李墨浠. 基于液相色谱-串联质谱法纺织品中三氯生的普查分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2014, 35(5): 87-0.
[13] 石先军 蔡光明 于伟东. 羊绒鳞片图纹基因码的构成及其相互关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(4): 1-5.
[14] 金美菊, 阮勇, 李翔, 石东亮, 叶凌. 基于基因技术的羊绒与羊毛纤维定性鉴别方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2012, 33(8): 19-23.
[15] 倪永 刘志红 胡腾蛟. PET、PTT与PBT材料的定性与定量鉴别方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2012, 33(10): 28-32.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号　 京公网安备11010502044800号
版权所有 © 2021 《纺织学报》编辑部
地址： 北京市朝阳区延静里中街3号主楼6层《纺织学报》杂志社　邮政编码：100025　
电话：010-65017711,65917740　传真：010-65016539　Email:fangzhixuebao@vip.126.com
本系统由北京玛格泰克科技发展有限公司设计开发