运动文胸结构设计要素对穿着舒适性的影响

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181005708

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为探究运动文胸各结构设计要素作用于人体的穿着舒适性,使用马丁测量仪测量7位罩杯号型为75B的女性裸体状态和穿着6款低、中、高强度支撑的运动文胸时的尺寸;借助气囊压力测试仪对人体的胸、背、肩、侧、下胸围等处的9个压力测试点进行静态压强测试和主观舒适度评定;并观察运动前后下围织带、肩带、夹弯、领口弧线处标记线的位移变化。研究发现:低强度运动文胸各点压强值小,舒适度高,高强度文胸对乳房左右和前后方向束缚大,文胸下围织带和罩杯向上滑移,肩带向颈部内侧滑移,后背和夹弯处运动前后滑移量少;高强度运动文胸应注重优化肩带、后背夹弯弧线、下围织带处的结构设计,减小人体肩部、下胸围、后背处的压强,提高整体穿着舒适性。

关键词: 运动文胸, 结构要素, 压强测试, 运动强度

Abstract:

In order to explore the wearing comfort of sports bra's structural elements, 7 female volunteers with 75B types were measured by Martin measurement before and after wearing 6 sports bras with low, medium and high strength recommended. Static pressure test was conducted by the balloon pressure tester with subjective comfort assessment of nine pressure points on the chest, back, shoulder, side, and lower chest circumference of human body. Moreover, the changes of the displacement of the marking line at the lower webbing, shoulder strap, clip bending and neckline before and after the movement were observed. By the analysis, the low-intensity sports bra has higher comfort and smaller pressure at each point. But the high-intensity sports bra has more restraint on the left and right, and the anterior and posterior directions of the breast. The lower webbing and cup slip upward, the shoulder strap slip to the inside of the neck, the structure of the back and clip of the bra are stable with the smaller slip amount after the movement. The high-intensity sports bra should focus on optimizing the structural elements of the shoulder strap, the back clip bending curve and the lower webbing, reducing the pressure on the shoulder, the lower bust and the back, and improving the overall wearing comfort.

Key words: sports bra, structure element, pressure test, exercise intensity

中图分类号:

TS941.17

陈慧娴, 鲁虹, 李书洋, 左恒. 运动文胸结构设计要素对穿着舒适性的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(09): 159-166.

CHEN Huixian, LU Hong, LI Shuyang, ZUO Heng. Influence of sports bra structural elements on wearing comfort[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(09): 159-166.

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结构要素	结构参数
1	宽度(W₁),围度(G),织带弹性(E₁),内侧粗糙程度
2	罩杯结构(上下片、左右片、三维模杯、可拆卸杯垫),罩杯形状面积(全罩杯、3/4罩杯),杯垫厚度(T),罩杯深度(D),塑性变形率(P_r),弹性回复率(E_r)
3	肩带宽度(W₃),厚度(是否有夹层),肩带弹性模量(E₃)
4	侧比高度(H₄)
5	夹弯前后深度,夹弯弧线
6	后背高度(H₆),结构(X型、H型、Y型、T型)
7	前心片高度(H₇),领口造型(U型、V型)

文胸编号	面料	衬里	衬垫	松紧带
1^#	84%聚酯纤维 16%氨纶	90%聚酯纤维 10%氨纶	60%聚酯纤维 40%聚氨酯	69%聚酯纤维 31%氨纶
2^#	80%锦纶 20%氨纶	85%聚酯纤维 15%氨纶	100%聚酯纤维	80%锦纶 20%氨纶
3^#	90%聚酯纤维 10%氨纶	76%锦纶 24%氨纶	100%聚酯纤维	80%锦纶 20%氨纶
4^#	83%聚酯纤维 17%氨纶	81%锦纶 19%氨纶	100%聚酯纤维	91%锦纶 9%氨纶
5^#	90%聚酯纤维 10%氨纶	74%聚酯纤维 26%氨纶	100%聚酯纤维	80%锦纶 20%氨纶
6^#	66%聚酯纤维 34%氨纶	74%聚酯纤维 26%氨纶	75%锦纶 25%氨纶	87%锦纶 13%氨纶

文胸编号	强度	W₁/ cm	G/ cm	E₁/ (N·mm^-2)	T/ cm	D/ cm	P_r/ %	E_r/ %	W₃/ cm	H₄/ cm	H₆/ cm	H₇/ cm
1^#	低	3.0	66	0.408	0.554	1.9	27.87	72.13	4.0	9	23.0	13.0
2^#	低	8.0	62	0.298	0.555	2.8	24.88	75.12	1.0	9	19.5	11.0
3^#	中	3.8	67	0.364	0.702	3.7	18.25	81.57	2.5	6	22.0	11.0
4^#	中	3.5	68	0.504	0.554	3.8	16.27	83.73	2.0	5	21.0	8.5
5^#	高	3.7	67	0.327	0.682	3.7	22.83	77.17	2.5	7	20.5	13.0
6^#	高	4.0	68	0.527	0.722	3.0	19.19	80.81	3.5	5	18.5	11.5

文胸编号	强度	MN/ cm	L₁/ cm	NP/ cm	L₂/ cm	PM/ cm	L₃/ cm	H/ cm
1^#	低	12.5	1.5	12.0	2.0	12.7	2.2	10.2
2^#	低	12.7	3.0	14.5	2.7	9.2	-1.5	9.0
3^#	中	14.5	6.0	14.0	2.0	8.5	0.5	8.0
4^#	中	15.5	8.5	12.5	0.5	9.5	1.0	7.5
5^#	高	14.5	5.5	14.0	2.0	8.5	0.5	7.8
6^#	高	16.5	4.0	16.5	3.0	8.5	0.5	8.2

受试者编号	身高	B₁	U₁	胸围差	D₁	D₂	P₁
M₁	163	88.0	74.5	13.5	18.5	3.2	19.0
M₂	166	87.0	75.0	12.0	19.8	2.6	19.5
M₃	164	87.5	75.5	12.0	19.3	2.1	20.0
M₄	164	85.5	73.0	12.5	17.7	2.4	19.0
M₅	165	86.0	73.0	13.0	17.2	3.6	17.9
M₆	164	85.0	73.0	11.5	17.5	2.9	20.0
M₇	165	84.5	73.0	11.5	17.1	3.0	19.0