芳伯胺染料对蚕丝织物的重氮化-偶合染色及工艺调控

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104407

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (11): 100-105.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104407

芳伯胺染料对蚕丝织物的重氮化-偶合染色及工艺调控

江华¹^,²(), 张志恒¹, 蔡金芳¹, 陈维国¹^,², 崔志华¹^,², 孙岩峰³

1.浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心, 浙江杭州 310018
2.浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室, 浙江杭州 310018
3.浙江吉华集团股份有限公司, 浙江杭州 311227

收稿日期:2018-11-16 修回日期:2019-04-03 出版日期:2019-11-15 发布日期:2019-11-26
作者简介:江华(1988—),男,讲师,博士。主要研究方向为染料设计与应用。E-mail: jh@zstu.edu.cn。
基金资助:
国家自然科学基金项目(51673176,21808210);浙江省公益技术研究计划(LGG18B060003)

Diazotization-coupling dyeing and process control of silk fabrics by primary aryl amine dyes

JIANG Hua¹^,²(), ZHANG Zhiheng¹, CAI Jinfang¹, CHEN Weiguo¹^,², CUI Zhihua¹^,², SUN Yanfeng³

1. Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing and Finishing of Textiles, Ministry of Education, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
2. Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology, Ministry of Education, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
3. Zhejiang Jihua Group Co., Ltd., Hangzhou, Zhejiang 311227, China

Received:2018-11-16 Revised:2019-04-03 Online:2019-11-15 Published:2019-11-26

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为提高蚕丝织物的染色牢度,以重氮化-偶合染色工艺采用芳伯胺染料对蚕丝织物进行染色,优化了同浴加热阶段上染温度、染浴pH值和元明粉质量浓度等染色条件,研究了染色前后颜色变化机制,并探讨了该方法的染料适用范围。结果表明:将芳伯胺染料与蚕丝织物同浴加热上染后,再在低温下将染料重氮化,并立即与蚕丝偶合,可大幅提升染色织物的K/S值;染色织物颜色的改变源于染色后染料分子共轭体系改变导致的发色体能级带隙的变化;苯胺类、萘胺类及1-氨基蒽醌类芳伯胺染料均适用于该反应性染色方法,染色蚕丝织物的耐皂洗色牢度及耐摩擦色牢度均能达到4级以上。

关键词: 蚕丝织物, 芳伯胺染料, 重氮化-偶合反应, 染色性能, 色牢度

Abstract:

In order to improve the fastness property of dyed silk fabrics, primary aryl amine dyes were selected for dyeing silk fabrics by a diazotization-coupling dyeing process. The dyeing conditions, such as dyeing temperature, pH value and concentration of sodium sulfate were optimized and the mechanism of color change before and after dyeing was discussed. The application scope of dyes was explored. The results showed that the K/S values of dyed fabrics are greatly increased when primary aryl amine dyes and silk fabrics are heated in one bath followed by diazotization of dyes and coupling with silk at low temperature. The reason for color change of dyed silk fabrics originates from the change of dye molecular conjugation leading to the variation of chromophore's band gap. Aniline, naphthylamine and 1-aminoanthraquinone dyes can be applied in this reactive dyeing method. The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of dyed silk fabrics could reach above grade 4.

Key words: silk fabric, primary aryl amine dye, diazotization-coupling reaction, dyeing property, color fastness

中图分类号:

TS193.5

江华, 张志恒, 蔡金芳, 陈维国, 崔志华, 孙岩峰. 芳伯胺染料对蚕丝织物的重氮化-偶合染色及工艺调控[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(11): 100-105.

JIANG Hua, ZHANG Zhiheng, CAI Jinfang, CHEN Weiguo, CUI Zhihua, SUN Yanfeng. Diazotization-coupling dyeing and process control of silk fabrics by primary aryl amine dyes[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(11): 100-105.

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染料	上染率/%	固色率/%	K/S值	L^*	a^*	b^*
C.I.酸性棕4	85	82	15.77	25.38	22.75	-0.07
染料D1	90	97	19.30	21.90	19.20	5.74
C.I.酸性蓝40	84	29	3.68	42.13	6.74	20.36
C.I.酸性绿20	81	93	18.96	24.42	-8.38	-6.53

染料	耐皂洗色牢度			耐摩擦色牢度
	变色	沾色		干	湿
	变色	丝	棉	干	湿
C.I.酸性棕4	4~5	4~5	4~5	5	4~5
染料D1	4~5	4	4~5	5	4~5
C.I.酸性蓝40	5	4~5	4~5	4~5	4
C.I.酸性绿20	4~5	4~5	5	5	4~5

芳伯胺染料对蚕丝织物的重氮化-偶合染色及工艺调控

Diazotization-coupling dyeing and process control of silk fabrics by primary aryl amine dyes

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