纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (11): 182-188.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181201407

• 综合述评 • 上一篇    

服装缝纫平整度的研究进展

肖平1,2,3, 钱伯丹1, 鲁虹1,2,3(), 张向辉1,2,3, 张媛1   

  1. 1.东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
    2.东华大学 现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海 200051
    3.同济大学 上海国际设计创新研究院, 上海 200092
  • 收稿日期:2018-12-07 修回日期:2019-05-20 出版日期:2019-11-15 发布日期:2019-11-26
  • 通讯作者: 鲁虹
  • 作者简介:肖平(1979—),女,讲师。主要研究方向为服装人体工效学。
  • 基金资助:
    中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(17D110710);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232019G-08);上海市设计学IV类高峰学科资助项目(DD18003);上海市设计学IV类高峰学科资助项目(DB18207);国家级大学生创新资助项目(17T10710)

Research progress on flatness of garment sewing

XIAO Ping1,2,3, QIAN Bodan1, LU Hong1,2,3(), ZHANG Xianghui1,2,3, ZHANG Yuan1   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    3. Shanghai Institute of Design and Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
  • Received:2018-12-07 Revised:2019-05-20 Online:2019-11-15 Published:2019-11-26
  • Contact: LU Hong

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摘要：

为有效评价服装缝纫外观质量,对国内外服装外观评价标准以及相关研究进行了梳理,分别从织物性能与缝纫条件2个方面归纳了表征服装外观质量级别的接缝外观平整度的影响因素,探讨了缝纫平整度的主观、客观评价方法,从多因子角度综合分析缝纫工艺因素对平整度的影响。认为需提高织物物理力学性能与织物缝纫褶皱等级之间的数学模型的精度,改进基于面料物理性能指标的平整度预测模型,开展曲线接缝服装部件的平整度研究,并建立服装外观质量智能评价新模型。同时从服装生产制作角度对服装缝纫平整度的研究方向进行展望。

关键词: 服装外观质量, 缝纫平整度, 织物性能, 缝纫条件, 平整度评价

Abstract:

In order to effectively evaluate the quality of sewing flatness of garments, the domestic and foreign clothing appearance evaluation standards and related research were sorted out. From two aspects of fabric performance and sewing conditions, the influence factors of flatness were summerized, and the evaluation methods of sewing flatness were discussed by subjective evaluation and objective evaluation.The influence of the sewing process factors on the flatness was comprehensively analyzed from a multi-factorial perspective. It is necessary to improve the accuracy of the mathematical model between the physical and mechanical properties of the fabric and the sewing wrinkle level of the fabric, improve the flatness prediction model based on the physical properties of the fabric, and seek the study of the flatness of the garment parts of the curved joint. It is proposed to establish a new model for the intelligent evaluation of garment appearance quality, and prospect the research direction of garment sewing flatness from the perspective of garment production and production, which provides a reference for the subsequent study of sewing flatness and garment making.

Key words: clothing appearance quality, sewing flatness, fabric property, sewing condition, flatness evaluation

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.17

图1

服装缝制皱褶的主要影响因素"

表1

国家标准与纺织行业服装标准的对比分析"

标准编号 标准名称 内容 特点 缺陷
GB/T 18132—2016 《丝绸服装》 主要表面缝制部位皱缩按照GSB16—2178丝绸服装缝制起皱5级样照规定 针对口袋、拉链、门襟、下摆,共计25个部位进行缩皱等级规定,各项不得低于4级 未有水洗前、后的缝制褶皱等级规定
GB/T 2660—2017 《衬衫》 1)针对各部位设定不同品类的起皱级别;
2)原料为全棉、全毛、棉/麻混纺时,在原有数值上,降低0.5,丝绸类衬衫不考虑起皱指标		 1)对衬衫各部件设置优等品、一等品、合格品的起皱级别限定;
2)对于洗涤前、洗涤后具有明确的起皱级别规定		 一些易起皱部位如袖窿等,未有明确的起皱级别指标
GB/T 2664—2017 《男西服、大衣》 部件缝制皱缩参照《男西服外观起皱样照》规定 干洗后起皱级别优等品>4级,一等品≥4级,合格品≥3级 无洗涤前起皱级别的规定
GB/T 14272—2011 《羽绒服》 部位缝制皱褶按《羽绒服装外观疵点及缝制起皱五级样照》规定 各部位平整度等级不低于3级 平整度优等品、一等品等无明确等级规定
FZ/T 73056—2016 《针织西服》 针织西服外观平整度、接缝外观平整度参照GB/T 13769、GB/T 13771 外观平整度、缝纫外观平整度、水洗后黏合衬质量有明确的指标要求 无部件的缝制平整度等级的规定
FZ/T 81004—2003 《连衣裙、裙套》 各部位缝制平服、顺直、整齐、牢固 阐述各个部件的缝制质量要求 无明确的起皱级别规定
FZ/T 81006—2017 《牛仔服装》 各部位缝制不平服为轻微缺陷 针对轻缺陷、重缺陷、严重缺陷阐述各个部件的缝制质量要求 无明确的起皱级别规定
FZ/T 81008—2011 《茄克衫》 各部位缝制平服、线路顺直整齐 洗涤干燥后外观平整度,优等品≥3级,其他不考虑;
洗涤干燥后接缝外观质量,优等品≥4级,一等品、合格品≥3级		 无部件的缝制平整度等级的规定
FZ/T 81010—2009 《风衣》 表面部件缝制皱缩按照《男西服外观起皱样照》规定 干洗后起皱级别优等品5级,一等品≥4级,合格品≥3级 无干洗前起皱级别的规定

图2

客观评价方法"

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