平幅轧染中针织物形变对染色的影响

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181003006

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (11): 94-99.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181003006

平幅轧染中针织物形变对染色的影响

王秋平¹^,², 毛志平¹^,³, 钟毅¹^,²(), 徐红¹^,², 张琳萍¹^,²

1.东华大学化学化工与生物工程学院, 上海 201620
2.东华大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室, 上海 201620
3.东华大学纺织科技创新中心, 上海 201620

收稿日期:2018-10-17 修回日期:2019-03-13 出版日期:2019-11-15 发布日期:2019-11-26
通讯作者: 钟毅
作者简介:王秋平(1992—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织物平幅连续染色。
基金资助:
国家重点研发计划资助项目(2017YFB0309700)

Influence of knitted deformation on dyeing in flat pad dyeing

WANG Qiuping¹^,², MAO Zhiping¹^,³, ZHONG Yi¹^,²(), XU Hong¹^,², ZHANG Linping¹^,²

1. College of Chemistry, Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
2. Key Laboratory of Science & Technology of Eco-Textile, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
3. Innovation Center for Textile Science and Technology, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China

Received:2018-10-17 Revised:2019-03-13 Online:2019-11-15 Published:2019-11-26
Contact: ZHONG Yi

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

针对平幅轧染中针织物易形变、张力不均带来皱褶和染色不匀等问题,通过选用多种化学结构活性染料对棉针织物进行浸轧染色,借助方差分析的手段,考察针织物在不同拉伸形变条件下固色后染料结构对染色性能的影响。结果表明:针织物采用不同活性基活性红实施平幅轧染,无论在横向还是纵向张力拉伸条件下预烘及汽蒸固色,拉伸对针织物的染色与匀染影响较小;由于染料结构的差异导致棉针织物对染料的吸附固色不同,不同的染料对同一种针织物的浸轧染色提升力有所区别;染中浅色时轧染可节省更多染料,尤其对于活性红WBRH(KN型),轧染色深明显高于浸染,更推荐轧染方式;染色后针织物皂洗牢度大于或等于4级。

关键词: 针织物, 平幅, 形变, 轧染, 活性染料

Abstract:

In view of the challenge in the pad-dyeing of open width knitted fabric, which leads to unleveled dyeing and crease formation caused by varying tension during the dyeing operation, reactive dyes of various chemical structures were adopted to pad-dye cotton knitted fabric, and the influence of the dye structure on the dyeing performance of the cotton knitted fabric under different tensile deformation conditions after fixation was investigated by means of variance analysis. The results showed that when the pad-dye cotton knitted fabric are subjected to open width pad-dyeing with reactive red of different active groups, and prebaked and fixed by steaming under the transverse or longitudinal tensioning condition, the tension has small influence on the dyeing and the level dyeing of the knitted fabric; and the difference in the dye structures causes different absorption and fixation of the cotton knitted fabric to dyes, thus, different dyes have difference in the pad-dyeing lifting power to the same knitted fabric. When dyeing in light colors, pad-dyeing can save more dye, especially for reactive red WBRH (KN type), the color depth of pad-dyeing is significantly higher than that of dip dyeing. The dyeing performance and levelness were not affected and the washing color fastness were greater than or equal to 4 grades.

Key words: knitted fabric, open width, deformation, pad dyeing, reactive dye

中图分类号:

TS193.5

王秋平, 毛志平, 钟毅, 徐红, 张琳萍. 平幅轧染中针织物形变对染色的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(11): 94-99.

WANG Qiuping, MAO Zhiping, ZHONG Yi, XU Hong, ZHANG Linping. Influence of knitted deformation on dyeing in flat pad dyeing[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(11): 94-99.

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轧染染料质量浓度/(g·L^-1)	浸染染料用量/%(o.w.f)	轧染染料质量浓度/(g·L^-1)	浸染染料用量/%(o.w.f)
5	0.40	40	3.08
10	0.79	50	3.81
20	1.57	60	4.53
30	2.33

染料	组间离均平方和	组内离均平方和	检验统计量	P值	临界值
活性红WBRH	0.003	0.086	0.21	0.93	4.18
活性红P-BN	0.041	0.656	0.39	0.81	4.18
活性红L-S	0.266	3.102	0.54	0.71	4.18

染料	组间离均平方和	组内离均平方和	检验统计量	P值	临界值
活性红WBRH	0.001	0.056	0.05	0.99	4.18
活性红P-BN	0.003	0.536	0.04	1.00	4.18
活性红L-S	0.113	2.180	0.32	0.86	4.18

染料	组间离均平方和	组内离均平方和	检验统计量	P值	临界值
活性红WBRH	0.006	0.060	0.68	0.61	4.18
活性红P-BN	0.029	0.525	0.35	0.84	4.18
活性红L-S	0.243	4.013	0.38	0.82	4.18

染料	组间离均平方和	组内离均平方和	检验统计量	P值	临界值
活性红WBRH	0.003	0.056	0.32	0.86	4.18
活性红P-BN	0.065	0.475	0.86	0.50	4.18
活性红L-S	0.069	1.362	0.32	0.86	4.18

平幅轧染中针织物形变对染色的影响

Influence of knitted deformation on dyeing in flat pad dyeing

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染料	染色方式	K/S值	皂洗牢度/级		干摩擦牢度/级
染料	染色方式	K/S值	褪色	沾色	横向	纵向	横向	纵向
活性红 WBRH	轧染	13.62	4~5	4~5	5	4~5	4	4
活性红 WBRH	浸染	4.35	4~5	5	5	5	4~5	4
活性红 P-BN	轧染	11.01	4	5	4~5	5	4	4
活性红 P-BN	浸染	6.98	4~5	5	5	4~5	4~5	4~5
活性红 L-S	轧染	18.52	4~5	4~5	4~5	4	3~4	3~4
活性红 L-S	浸染	18.45	4~5	5	5	4~5	4	4