聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190204306

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (12): 39-44.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190204306

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

魏艳红¹, 刘新金¹(), 谢春萍¹, 苏旭中¹, 张钟唏²

1.生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学), 江苏无锡 214122
2.南通纺织控股集团纺织染有限公司, 江苏南通 226007

收稿日期:2019-02-25 修回日期:2019-07-30 出版日期:2019-12-15 发布日期:2019-12-18
通讯作者: 刘新金
作者简介:魏艳红(1987—),女,工程师,硕士生。主要研究方向为高保形纱线及织物开发。
基金资助:
国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心基金项目(XJFZ/2018/09);江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(SJCX180623);江苏省产学研合作项目(BY2018185)

Shape retention and wearing properties of polyester filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics

WEI Yanhong¹, LIU Xinjin¹(), XIE Chunping¹, SU Xuzhong¹, ZHANG Zhongxi²

1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles(Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
2. Nantong Textile Holding Group Textile Dyeing Limited Company, Nantong, Jiangsu 226007, China

Received:2019-02-25 Revised:2019-07-30 Online:2019-12-15 Published:2019-12-18
Contact: LIU Xinjin

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。

关键词: 聚酯长丝/棉复合纱, 折皱回复角, 免烫织物, 免烫等级, 悬垂性, 保形性, 透气性

Abstract:

In order to study shape retention and wearing properties of polyester(PET) filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics, three kinds of 9.8 tex yarns were developed from PET filament and pure cotton yarn. Four kinds of fabrics were woven with two up two down twill weaves. The shape retention and wearing properties of the fabrics were tested, such as wrinkle recovery, ironing-free, dimensional stability, drapability, tensile strength, tensile resilience, bursting property, handle style, moisture and air permeability. The shape retention and wearing properties of pure cotton fabric and composite yarn fabric were compared and analyzed. The results show that the PET filament/cotton composite yarns can improve the wrinkle resistance, drapability of the fabrics and the ironing-free level without affecting the wearing property of the fabric. Compared with the wrapped yarns, the core yarn fabric has higher wrinkle resistance and ironing-free level. The core yarn fabric is a good idea for ironing-free shirt fabrics.

Key words: polyester filament/cotton composite yarn, wrinkle recovery angle, ironing-free fabric, ironing-free level, drapability, shape retention, air permeability

中图分类号:

TS101.923

魏艳红, 刘新金, 谢春萍, 苏旭中, 张钟唏. 聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(12): 39-44.

WEI Yanhong, LIU Xinjin, XIE Chunping, SU Xuzhong, ZHANG Zhongxi. Shape retention and wearing properties of polyester filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(12): 39-44.

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长丝编号	线密度/ tex(6 f)	断裂强度/ (cN·tex^-1)	断裂伸长率/%	初始模量/ (cN·tex^-1)	5%定伸长弹性回复率/%
1^#	0.88	33.3	15.50	421.5	82.50
2^#	1.11	41.8	17.21	527.5	84.16

纱线品种	捻度/ (捻·(10 cm^-1))	强度/ (cN·tex^-1)	伸长率/%	初始模量/ (cN·tex^-1)	条干不匀率CV 值/%	H 值	-50% 细节/ (个·km^-1)	+50% 粗节/ (个·km^-1)	+200% 棉结/ (个·km^-1)	毛羽/(根·m^-1)
纱线品种	捻度/ (捻·(10 cm^-1))	强度/ (cN·tex^-1)	伸长率/%	初始模量/ (cN·tex^-1)	条干不匀率CV 值/%	H 值	-50% 细节/ (个·km^-1)	+50% 粗节/ (个·km^-1)	+200% 棉结/ (个·km^-1)	<3 mm	≥3 mm
纯棉纱	137.17	21.75	5.64	289.50	12.38	2.64	0	25	40	66.51	1.81
包芯纱	137.70	21.25	5.94	318.90	11.83	2.52	0	20	20	42.26	1.43
双包芯纱	138.62	20.27	5.83	293.90	11.87	2.34	0	5	10	34.14	1.52
双包缠纱	138.87	23.50	6.63	283.10	11.29	1.91	0	5	10	15.13	0.43

织物编号	经、纬纱线品种	厚度/ mm	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	密度/ (根·(10 cm)^-1)
织物编号	经、纬纱线品种	厚度/ mm	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	经密	纬密
A	纯棉纱	0.33	117	669	394
B	包芯纱	0.36	126	669	394
C	双包芯纱	0.36	122	669	394
D	双包缠纱	0.33	117	669	394

织物编号	急弹性回复角			缓弹性回复角
织物编号	经向	纬向	经+纬	经向	纬向	经+纬
A	73.12	88.57	161.69	92.63	105.03	197.66
B	94.35	100.56	194.91	113.35	116.77	230.12
C	84.95	97.99	182.94	99.52	112.41	211.93
D	63.65	73.80	137.45	81.98	90.47	172.45

织物编号	织缩率		缩水率
织物编号	经向	纬向	经向	纬向
A	11.11	6.25	-3.46	-2.50
B	9.11	5.07	-1.33	-1.18
C	9.02	4.61	-2.61	-1.32
D	8.88	3.03	-5.36	-2.86

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

Shape retention and wearing properties of polyester filament/cotton composite yarn twill fabrics

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织物编号	经向		纬向
织物编号	1次	5次	1次	5次
A	75.20	69.07	51.13	43.21
B	85.22	75.05	72.95	60.40
C	78.94	67.57	71.76	62.79
D	77.89	74.30	58.16	48.74

织物编号	硬挺度	柔软度	光滑度	折皱回复率/%
A	26.05	75.63	76.73	45.98
B	23.73	77.69	77.94	63.27
C	22.69	77.99	77.34	62.39
D	23.30	77.46	76.56	53.13

织物编号	透湿量/(g·m^-2·d^-1)	透气率/(mm·s^-1)
A	5 664.831	460.23
B	6 267.834	407.02
C	6 013.044	371.09
D	6 199.890	566.91

织物编号	静态悬垂系数	动态悬垂系数
A	48.77	53.64
B	44.62	50.28
C	44.67	50.84
D	44.58	49.41

织物编号	断裂强力/N		断裂伸长率/%
织物编号	经向	纬向	经向	纬向
A	742.46	424.51	23.54	8.89
B	665.59	421.82	25.84	11.03
C	548.78	418.82	26.14	14.07
D	774.39	482.21	25.91	10.78