纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (07): 53-58.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190803306

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

全成形西服横向编织技术的工艺模型与实现

刘博, 丛洪莲()   

  1. 江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2019-08-13 修回日期:2020-03-22 出版日期:2020-07-15 发布日期:2020-07-23
  • 通讯作者: 丛洪莲
  • 作者简介:刘博(1987—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织产品工艺设计。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(61602212);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2018056)

Research and implementation of flat-bed knitting process model of fully formed suit

LIU Bo, CONG Honglian()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2019-08-13 Revised:2020-03-22 Online:2020-07-15 Published:2020-07-23
  • Contact: CONG Honglian

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摘要：

为深入研究全成形西服工艺,针对纵向编织方法难以实现复杂结构款型西服制作的问题,提出将西服沿背中线分解为左右2片分别进行编织再下机缝合的制作方法。根据四针床全成形横向编织工艺模型,从全成形服装的横向编织原理、成形方法出发,按照工艺模型设定上机参数并试织,实现了全成形西服的横向编织。研究结果表明:西服横向分片编织方法具有可行性,其中西服后领和背中线需要下机后缝合,此方法可实现前后片不同结构尺寸的T形、X形等廓形变化的西服款式,同时还能形成领部和门襟处的双面双层结构以及背中线、侧缝线结构,增加了西服的挺括性。

关键词: 全成形西服, 四针床电脑横机, 横向编织, 工艺模型

Abstract:

In order to further study the process of fully formed suit, and to solve the problem that the conventional circular knitting method is difficult to produce suits with complex structures and styles, this paper proposed a method for fully formed suits by decomposing a suit along the back midline into left and right pieces for knitting and stitching. The flat-bed knitting method was investigated into based on a four-needle bed flat knitting machine. Started from the flat-bed knitting principle and method, the parameters were set according to the process model, and then the design of a full-form suit was implemented. The results show that the flat-bad knitting method is feasible, in which the back collar and the back center of the suit need to be stitched off the machine, and the T-shaped, X-shaped and other wide-shaped suit styles with different structural sizes of the front and back were realized using this method. The double-sided double-layer structures for the collar and the placket, the back center line, the side suture can also be formed at the same time to increase the suitability of the suit.

Key words: fully formed suit, four-needle computerized flat-bed knitting machine, flat-bed knitting, process model

中图分类号: 

  • TS184.5

图1

西服成形方式分类"

图2

全成形西服左片纸样的横向编织展开图 ①—衣身左前片;②—衣身左后片;③—衣袖左前片;④—衣袖左后片。"

图3

横向编织西服领部成形工艺模型"

图4

横向编织西服袖身连接工艺模型 a—身片减针针数;b—袖宽;c—身片减针行数;d—袖山高;e—袖山移针针数。"

图5

横向编织比例工艺模型 ⑤—急放针段;⑥—缓放针段;⑦—向右滑动色块。"

图6

横向编织西服袖山修正工艺模型"

图7

横向编织西服左右片转换方式 ⑧—前片;⑨—后片。"

图8

一隔一交替的正反针组织"

图9

一隔一成圈的单面组织"

表1

线圈长度设定表"

位置 线圈长度/mm
上针床 下针床
大身 6.2 6.4
袖口 6.0 6.2
前片(废纱组织) 6.0 7.2
后片(废纱组织) 4.5 4.5
衣领 6.8 7.0

表2

穿纱配置"

纱嘴号码 使用区域 纱线成分 单纱线密度/tex
2(左) 废纱 涤纶高弹纱 66.7
4(左) 前片大身 天蚕丝 41.7
5(右) 门襟 天蚕丝 41.7
6(左) 后片大身 天蚕丝 41.7
6(右) 双层门襟分隔线 涤纶高弹纱 66.7
8(左) 起头橡筋纱 氨纶包覆纱 59.1
8(右) 分离纱 涤纶缝纫线 14.8

图10

横向编织西服设计实物"

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